Brake Surprise...
#1
Brake Surprise...
I backed my 76 out of the garage last Sunday for a little run and the brakes didn't feel right. I've not seen a drip from this car, other than the radiator overflow. I pulled it back into the garage, popped the brake reservoir and wow - the front bowl was full but the rear bowl didn't have a drop in it. I am going to put her up on my QuickJack this coming weekend to see where in the heck my fluid might have leaked out. Again, not a drop in the garage or driveway so I'm puzzled to say the least.
#3
I only drive it on Fridays to work, and occasionally to a show. It has been raining of late, so I drove it to a show about a month ago, and gave her a thorough check before leaving, including the brake fluid. I had an incident with my older Mustang which makes me check things like brake fluid a lot. I've probably driven her twice since checking it. I'm thinking something blew out on the road and that is why I don't see any fluid in the garage. Because I've only had my C3 for just over a year, I'm still learning the ins and outs of these old girls. I'll start with putting her up on my Quickjack and look under her skirts. I'll start with the brake reservoir and go back to each rear brake i guess. Are there any particular locations where these cars can make a leak like this? I know, the answer is under the car, LOL.
#4
Le Mans Master
The rear of the master can also leak into the brake booster, Never see anything, it possibly gets picked up by engine vacuum and burned.
The following users liked this post:
hdeyong (02-13-2020)
#5
Drifting
Recently had a similar situation, except it was the front portion of the M/C being empty. No puddles, but noticed greasy film on the LF wheel. I think the leak was so slow and gradual, it never resulted in a stain on the ground. Pulled the wheel off and had similar film on the rotor. Pulled the caliper and found a leaking seal. Fortunately I purchased the calipers from Autozone 5 years earlier which had a lifetime warranty. Got a free replacement that afternoon and was back on the road the next day.
#6
Recently had a similar situation, except it was the front portion of the M/C being empty. No puddles, but noticed greasy film on the LF wheel. I think the leak was so slow and gradual, it never resulted in a stain on the ground. Pulled the wheel off and had similar film on the rotor. Pulled the caliper and found a leaking seal. Fortunately I purchased the calipers from Autozone 5 years earlier which had a lifetime warranty. Got a free replacement that afternoon and was back on the road the next day.
#7
Le Mans Master
Look at inside of wheels for streaking like a centrifuge on tires..then wipe inside of wheels from behind to see if one or two wetter. Or noticeable leak residue as it dries somewhat making it harder to spot, and a hand under booster to master...
i had to replace seals and master..
i had to replace seals and master..
#8
Look at inside of wheels for streaking like a centrifuge on tires..then wipe inside of wheels from behind to see if one or two wetter. Or noticeable leak residue as it dries somewhat making it harder to spot, and a hand under booster to master...
i had to replace seals and master..
i had to replace seals and master..
#9
Le Mans Master
here it is
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-rebuild.html
Last edited by interpon; 12-20-2019 at 09:50 AM.
#10
Le Mans Master
I know that thread above says one wont last due to no stainless insert but so far works perfect and dry..
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-rebuild.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-rebuild.html
#11
Le Mans Master
Here is the ebay master i got rebuilt old delco..with accurate cover as original, just no di-chromate left..
also vendors on this site have great deal on rubber usa brake hoses, suggest changing regardless.
also vendors on this site have great deal on rubber usa brake hoses, suggest changing regardless.
#12
AWESOME, thank you! I'm looking at your rebuild thread now...
#13
Found the leak I believe... First, the master was full for the fronts, completely empty for the rears. Put her up in quickjacks, took both rear tires off, not a drop of fluid to be found. Traced the very dry lines from both rear calipers up the line towards the front. Went to the front, master is dry also. Traced the rear lines just down to the frame, there is a block the lines go into (distribution block). Where the rear line goes into the block, fluid all over the frame towards the back!
Now, I'm sure I'm going to have to bleed the rear part of the master, not sure if I need to do the front - if it's holding fluid I would guess I do not. Anyway, I tightened the nut on the line into the block, although it wasn't loose. Not sure what I can do to seal this, other than getting a new rear line? Any suggestions are certainly welcome. Calipers in the back are rusty looking, I might take them off and clean them up, possibly get some caliper paint and make them look nice.
First major repair on my C3....
Now, I'm sure I'm going to have to bleed the rear part of the master, not sure if I need to do the front - if it's holding fluid I would guess I do not. Anyway, I tightened the nut on the line into the block, although it wasn't loose. Not sure what I can do to seal this, other than getting a new rear line? Any suggestions are certainly welcome. Calipers in the back are rusty looking, I might take them off and clean them up, possibly get some caliper paint and make them look nice.
First major repair on my C3....
Last edited by C3_DH; 12-26-2019 at 08:53 PM.
#14
Burning Brakes
Sometimes, loosening a flare-nut (with the appropriate flare-nut wrench to keep from rounding it off) a bit, then tightening it back down a few times, can re-seal the flare.
#15
#16
Le Mans Master
If you take the calipers off to make them look nice anyway, consider rebuilding them. If they have stainless steel liners already, and the bores are in good shape, this is something you can easily do yourself. I took them apart and cleaned the calipers with a wire wheel (making sure to mask off the bores), before putting on G2 2-part epoxy (which is, sadly, still not resistant to brake fluid).
Read some other threads and make up your own mind about O-ring vs. Lip Seals. I used the (high temp) O-ring kit from CSSB Inc.
Read some other threads and make up your own mind about O-ring vs. Lip Seals. I used the (high temp) O-ring kit from CSSB Inc.
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C3_DH (12-27-2019)
#17
Burning Brakes
I don't believe it would be very common for an old brake line to just start leaking from a 'loosened flare nut'. There's very likely something else going on.
#18
Are you talking about the brass proportioning valve? If so, make sure IT isn't leaking. Mine had a vent hole on the side that would pee brake fluid every so often. I think it might have been something like an internal pressure relief that simply failed.
It was a long time ago, but I recall my local Chevy dealer having the best price by far and it was identical to the original.
It was a long time ago, but I recall my local Chevy dealer having the best price by far and it was identical to the original.
#19
Le Mans Master
I agree with last two posts..either someone was in there with those lines or leaking from block..do the lines look original or old? Change them and maybe block...soak all connections and use flare wrench..a good usa one...that fits two sizes is worth it unless you have one already.. new usa rubber too to caliper..
or tighten and see..i hear here that master should be bench bled if ran dry..maybe as cheap as brake fluid is tighten add fluid gravity bleed or other..see if you stopped it...and all bubbles come out
i soaked my calipers for rebuild in evaporust..
or tighten and see..i hear here that master should be bench bled if ran dry..maybe as cheap as brake fluid is tighten add fluid gravity bleed or other..see if you stopped it...and all bubbles come out
i soaked my calipers for rebuild in evaporust..