my first 1975 Corvette C3 barn find newbie help
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Newbie, my first 1975 Corvette C3, barn find - pls help
Hi guys, just joined the forum today. Thanks for accepting me.
I picked up a 1975 bright yellow Corvette C3 L48 automatic 350 small block with black interior a week ago. It seems in pretty good condition. A barn find. 100,000 kms (Canada). I just want to restore it to driver quality...
My question is :
1.) What steps should I do first to get the engine started without damaging anything?...hasn't run in 7 years seller claims.
2.) what areas of the car should i inspect to see if its worthy to continue restoring...
any help would be appreciated
thx, Jamie
I picked up a 1975 bright yellow Corvette C3 L48 automatic 350 small block with black interior a week ago. It seems in pretty good condition. A barn find. 100,000 kms (Canada). I just want to restore it to driver quality...
My question is :
1.) What steps should I do first to get the engine started without damaging anything?...hasn't run in 7 years seller claims.
2.) what areas of the car should i inspect to see if its worthy to continue restoring...
any help would be appreciated
thx, Jamie
Last edited by jamiecantar; 04-02-2019 at 05:43 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
Welcome Jamie...we're a VERY accepting bunch! You just need the INTEREST in a C-3.
I'm going to give the engine starting procedure....the rest is WAY too wordy.
Change oil to 10W40
New filter (filled up before install) messy but worth it.
New anti freeze....I would rather get the dead junk OUT.
There are two ways of 'pumping up the oil'...
One requires removing the distributor and getting a 'oil pump adapter' which drops down into the distributor hole and engages the oil pump shaft, and is then run off of an electric drill...30 secs to 1 minute should do it. This is the **** way. Re-install distributor to the right timing... OBVIOUSLY.
Two is far easier....it's an old car with 100ks on it, so this won't really damage anything.
Pull all the spark-plugs label them and the wires. IMPORTANT!
Get new plugs, gap them.
Squirt one large tablespoon full of thin oil like 0w-20 into each cylinder.
Disconnect the Tach/Batt plug from the distributor.
Ensure FRESH good gas in tank....even if you have to siphon out what's in there.
Fresh battery and good battery terminals...
Are you getting excited yet...almost there!
Spray the carb. linkages with penetrating oil and exercise them.
CRANK CAR for 30-45 seconds.
oil will spew out of the open spark-plug holes =GOOD! Engine will spin up like the dickens!
Replace the spark-plugs and wires with the SAVED timing.
You should smell gas at the carb. (fuel pump ACTUALLY WORKING)
Re-plug in the tach/batt plug in the distributor.
POUR a 1/8th cup of gas in the PRIMARIES carefully.
Grab the fire extinguisher.
Crank the car!
Should start/cough/ sputter...that's okay.
Crank again, pour a little more fuel down the primaries....EITHER it SHOULD start, or it won't possibly because the fuel pump diagragm has given up the ghost!
If it will run on a little dribble of fuel....then fuel pump or filter sock in tank is clogged.
Good luck SIR!
Unkahal
I'm going to give the engine starting procedure....the rest is WAY too wordy.
Change oil to 10W40
New filter (filled up before install) messy but worth it.
New anti freeze....I would rather get the dead junk OUT.
There are two ways of 'pumping up the oil'...
One requires removing the distributor and getting a 'oil pump adapter' which drops down into the distributor hole and engages the oil pump shaft, and is then run off of an electric drill...30 secs to 1 minute should do it. This is the **** way. Re-install distributor to the right timing... OBVIOUSLY.
Two is far easier....it's an old car with 100ks on it, so this won't really damage anything.
Pull all the spark-plugs label them and the wires. IMPORTANT!
Get new plugs, gap them.
Squirt one large tablespoon full of thin oil like 0w-20 into each cylinder.
Disconnect the Tach/Batt plug from the distributor.
Ensure FRESH good gas in tank....even if you have to siphon out what's in there.
Fresh battery and good battery terminals...
Are you getting excited yet...almost there!
Spray the carb. linkages with penetrating oil and exercise them.
CRANK CAR for 30-45 seconds.
oil will spew out of the open spark-plug holes =GOOD! Engine will spin up like the dickens!
Replace the spark-plugs and wires with the SAVED timing.
You should smell gas at the carb. (fuel pump ACTUALLY WORKING)
Re-plug in the tach/batt plug in the distributor.
POUR a 1/8th cup of gas in the PRIMARIES carefully.
Grab the fire extinguisher.
Crank the car!
Should start/cough/ sputter...that's okay.
Crank again, pour a little more fuel down the primaries....EITHER it SHOULD start, or it won't possibly because the fuel pump diagragm has given up the ghost!
If it will run on a little dribble of fuel....then fuel pump or filter sock in tank is clogged.
Good luck SIR!
Unkahal
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sellar mentioned squirting WD40? any harm in that? Tell you why, I spray it in the plug chambers to lube the cylinders and let it sit for the week...oops
Wow, thank you L-46 man, will report back when I get around this weekend to try it... cheers :-)
Wow, thank you L-46 man, will report back when I get around this weekend to try it... cheers :-)
Last edited by jamiecantar; 04-03-2019 at 09:39 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
I'm not a WD-40 fan....It's NAME is Water Disperser or WIRE Dryer-40....pretty **** poor lubricant. Good GLUE though!
Nah won't hurt in this application.
good luck.
Unkahal
Nah won't hurt in this application.
good luck.
Unkahal
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#9
Race Director
Welcome to the forum. Nice car!
Great suggestions above for getting it started.
I’ll take a stab at your other question regarding evaluating the rest of the car. First of all, read the sticky on the main page, https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
This will describe what to look for and where. In a nutshell, only the body is fiberglass, there is plenty of metal in our cars (hopefully ) and rust is what separates the restoration candidate from a parts car.
Also, if it starts right up, don’t be tempted to take it for a spin until you’ve gone through the brakes. The system on these cars do not like to sit and it’s very unlikely that they’ll work without some effort.
Great suggestions above for getting it started.
I’ll take a stab at your other question regarding evaluating the rest of the car. First of all, read the sticky on the main page, https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
This will describe what to look for and where. In a nutshell, only the body is fiberglass, there is plenty of metal in our cars (hopefully ) and rust is what separates the restoration candidate from a parts car.
Also, if it starts right up, don’t be tempted to take it for a spin until you’ve gone through the brakes. The system on these cars do not like to sit and it’s very unlikely that they’ll work without some effort.
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#10
Dementer sole survivor
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2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
And once its running , get new tires, if one blows, it will take a fender with it. Welcome aboard!!
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#11
Race Director
ok, the guy who wrote that sticky had a disagreement with the forum. and he deleted the opening post with the whole write-up and pics. BUT a newb hit quote and reproduced the first post in it's entirety in post 107 of the thread. so jump down to post 107 and read...
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jamiecantar (04-03-2019)
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Last edited by jamiecantar; 04-06-2019 at 10:57 PM.
#13
Great looking ride. I am fond of the 1975 yellow ones! I have just finished bringing mine back to life after sitting for 10 years. I was fortunate that the previous owner did good job storing it. Good luck and enjoy your new project.
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#15
Le Mans Master
Very nice, welcome to the Forum!
The F-body wheels are likely too narrow. Starting in earnest in 1976, the YJ8 aluminum wheel option was available for C3s, later the N90 wheels in 80-82. These are 15x8 with a 4 inch backspace, look great on vinyl bumper C3s, and are readily available on Craigslist, this Forum, and as new repros from the big vendors.
255/60R15 was a standard size, especially for the YJ8 and N90 cars, starting in 78. I think 225/70R15 may have been standard for your 75.
Rust and paint are the big issues. Take a look behind the kick panels, behind the dash, and where the rear trailing arms meet the chassis.
Good luck!
The F-body wheels are likely too narrow. Starting in earnest in 1976, the YJ8 aluminum wheel option was available for C3s, later the N90 wheels in 80-82. These are 15x8 with a 4 inch backspace, look great on vinyl bumper C3s, and are readily available on Craigslist, this Forum, and as new repros from the big vendors.
255/60R15 was a standard size, especially for the YJ8 and N90 cars, starting in 78. I think 225/70R15 may have been standard for your 75.
Rust and paint are the big issues. Take a look behind the kick panels, behind the dash, and where the rear trailing arms meet the chassis.
Good luck!
Last edited by Bikespace; 04-03-2019 at 01:35 PM.
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jamiecantar (04-06-2019)
#16
Melting Slicks
As L46 said...and others.
Big problem is old fuel sitting so long....If you can drain tank first, get out old gas, replace fuel filter, hope carb isn't gummed up or leaking.
BTW, original fuel filter is tricky to change, search for advice first
Big problem is old fuel sitting so long....If you can drain tank first, get out old gas, replace fuel filter, hope carb isn't gummed up or leaking.
BTW, original fuel filter is tricky to change, search for advice first
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#18
Drifting
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Welcome Jamie,, good advice is everywhere in the site, for me, I've found most all info I have needed for my '75 right here on the forum,
Enjoy your build,, most coments are well ment, and most really enjoy sharing, , and some of us are full of BS and sarcasm,,, but, for sure, 100% entertaining! !!!
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,teddy.
Enjoy your build,, most coments are well ment, and most really enjoy sharing, , and some of us are full of BS and sarcasm,,, but, for sure, 100% entertaining! !!!
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,teddy.
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jamiecantar (04-06-2019)
#19
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Watch the carb for fuel leaks when you fire it, make sure the thermostat opens. once it fires you can tackle all the little stuff
A 235 or 245/60 will fit fine up front wihtout a major sidewall difference visually.
A 235 or 245/60 will fit fine up front wihtout a major sidewall difference visually.
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