yelo80vette

And the surprise for this spring is . . .
As usual, a new annual 'after winter storage' problem has arisen.
Having not been started for months, this evening I attempted to start my 1980. She's been on a trickle charger all winter so the battery is good and strong. However, when I turned the key . . . nothing. The ignition buzzer is loud, the antenna goes up, stereo comes on, lights are bright, but turn the key, nuttin' ! Anybody? suggestions? Ideas ? Help!

Jamess411

derekderek

Cycle the key to start a bunch of Times quick.

pigfarmer

Probably something fiddly. Just a w.a.g but short of a blown fuse I'd look the neutral safety switch.

Jeffs82c3

Check for corrosion on cables?

REELAV8R

sounds like a neutral safety switch. Cycle it in and out of park and try again.

mikep3

Trickle chargers can not change a battery if there is a large drain.
You should check the votlage before and when cranking at the battey. In my opinion it is the easiest place to start.

derekderek

Headlights bright. It would at least try to crank. Try neutral instead of park.

Rescue Rogers

I would try everything above then grab a remote wired starter and just jump across the solenoid to see how the motor cranks. Its probably something sticking.
starter solenoid, nuetral saftey switch, whatever else the computer on those 80s need to fire the coil, if it has one.

When I had multiple vehicles i would start them a couple off times a month to keep things from sticking. On newer vehicles things like speed sensors and crank sensors can have problems if they arent started once in a while.

txfatboy1

On a no start/no crank, first, check to see if the small wire on small stud on the starter solenoid has battery voltage when the key is turned to crank. If battery voltage is present then MOST likely the starter and/or solenoid is bad. If there is no battery voltage THEN go back in the circuit for the next thing in line.....

DB Cooper

Spot on. If there's not at least the 'click' of the solenoid, the starter motor itself isn't even being asked to do anything but sit there. Either the solenoid's sticking, or the neutral safety switch isn't allowing power to it. Or an outside change that the ignition switch went bad. But that would probably make some contact with a few cycles back and forth. Frankly, the same goes for the neutral safety switch.

yelo80vette

Yea, tried this. Thanks for the suggestion though.

DB Cooper

Are you getting 12v at the solenoid ? That'll at least tell you for sure whether the issue is in the starter itself, or something upstream of it.

C3-PO

I've had the same problem over the last 5-6 years as it will not crank for about 5-10 minutes of key turning, shift slamming and steering column adjusting. then Boom ... she starts and I'm' good until the next time, 5 minutes to 5 months maybe. I think that it might be a "computer module" problem as mine has degraded to the point of alternator light always on and battery charges. anyone how to reset the computer?

derekderek

The computer does not run the starter. It is to TRY to fine tune air-fuel for emissions. You have a bad ignition switch or neutral-park interlock.