Sunracer

...when you turn the key, it moves a rod which goes down the steering column and attaches to a switch which is mounted so as to be adjustable. You are not quite getting enough travel out of the rod, as a result the switch is not closing all the time. Symptoms were exactly as you he described.

I am in a hotel in China at the moment with lousy internet, so I can't search up pics for you, but have a look at a good diagram of the column wiring. You will find what I am talking about easily.

Adjusting that little b*tch ain't so easy though, unless you have a 20 year old back and the dexterity of an octopus.

As I am a full time resident in the Philippines I will take my reward in pesos should I be correct

Cool bean

On my 74 I had something similar happen, and it was the ground cable from the battery to the frame. There was corrosion on the inside of the cable; the only evidence was that the cable loomed thicker or swollen when compared to a new one.

the other suugestions are all plausible, i did them all anyway. (Interlock removed & jumped, cleaned column rod and switch, neutral safety switch. I also changed battery cable, starter, engine harness with hei power wire upgrade, and added ford style solenoid. But this is not a suggestion for you as a required fix, i just had a massive case of "while I'm in there...". I'm betting the battery ground cable fixes the issue.)

Stingre'

So no winner yet, I went to the LB swapmeet and did some trouble shooting concentrating on grounding. I grabbed every ground I could find and everything was tight EXCEPT for the battery I tightened it and then got busy helping my neighbor and then I was too tired to continue and/or see if the repairs worked. I'll drive it tomorrow and update everyone. I took a few pics of the grounds and the starter fusible link

p.s. I have a pet peeve I noticed it happens here alot. People ask for help and NEVER followup on the cause and/or what repair fixed the issue. The followup surely would help everyone as I surfed the crap out of my issue which apparently is pretty common but nobody ever takes the time to post what the cause was/is...

OldCarBum

I know it is a pain, but just tugging on a wire does not mean it is making a good connection. To properly test a wire you need to use an ohm meter and check those wires for continuity and resistance. The wiring in the photos you attached screams trouble to me. I see bent wires, frayed strands and poor splicing. The ground cable on my 73 looked much better than the one in your photo, however mine was corroded nearly through under the insulation. Between the missing bolt, hose clamp holding the e-brake cable and spark plug wires dangling below the starter, I think our old friend Bubba spent long hours working on your Corvette. Good luck, keep us posted so we can continue to offer help and don't pull out too much hair.

mrvette

DO yourself a FAVOR.....DO NOT BUY that stupid ZZ9 cam it's supplied by TPIS and is a POS, years ago mine failed in a really wacky way....it was in my '89 truck block, so a factory roller setup with L98 heads on it, that cam gave me HELL, every once in a while it would idle just fine, smooth as silk next day idle like CRAP rough as a dragster....drove me nuts with the computer tune, injectors, airflow, sensors, went through HELL with it, engine built in '97, I finally got pissed with the lousy MPG and got a stock L98 cam and upon pulling that POS, I found 6 lobes all delaminating looking and rough surfaces, I looked at the roller lifters, and inspected the rollers with a mag glass under a bright light....they all purrfect, and smooth as a kitten.....

TPIS could have cared less....screw them forever......

Hey Marvin Cottrell.....go to HELL!!!!!

'Bochawa72

I had the same problem on my 72 less than two weeks ago. I went to cars and coffee one morning with no issues. I got in to leave and nothing when I turned my key. All my connections were tight but as I was grabbing wires at the starter I felt a break on one of the terminals beneath the rubber insulation. The spade connector broke where the wire was crimped/soldered in. I cut the end, put on a new terminal and was up and running. I got lucky! I hope your fix is this easy too, good luck! My ohm meter would have solved this mystery a little sooner if I had it along.

Cool bean

Did you find the issue yet? From the photo of the battery-to-frame ground, it looks a little swollen. It's been a while, but I hope its resolved!

BEJ

Another vote for grounding issues. I had the same exact problem with my 75 a few months ago. Would take it out for a drive, park for an hour, come back and nothing. All of the accessories worked fine, but when you turned the key, no click, no motor turn, nothing. Looked at my battery negative to ground and the cable looked fine. I pulled it though, put an ohm meter on it and found out that it was far from ok. Ordered a new one, and a new positive cable for safe measure, and haven't had the problem since. Don't be fooled by the appearance of the cable. You can get a lot of corrosion inside of the cable that isn't visible to the naked eye. Check resistance on that cable.

Good luck
Bryan

henrikse

I would check the positive wire from the battery to the starter/ I believe it is 6 gauge. In your original question you mention when it does not start you still have draw on the amp meter? This would tell me the starter is providing a load. Have you put amp meter in series to see what the draw is. It will be high or is it the same as when it does start? So anyway if the load is there from the starter I would think the cable cannot handle the load either from corrosion or wire damage.

Gary

Wee

Mine too....Just saying.

Brian