FastLane73

Hello everyone,
I would like to paint the two grills on my 73. Was wondering if anyone had advice on the sheen (glossy, satin, etc.) and what paint to use. I was thinking maybe applying some POR-15 on it and then painting a top coat over it but i really don't want to apply the POR-15 with a brush.

Any ideas and recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks as always.
Ted

Richard454

It really depends on the look you want-

Por-15 is really designed to stop rust....I don't think you need it on the grills as they are potmetal-

I wanted a different look- for my grills-

I hit the fins w/ a belt sander-then used a paint stripper - next painted it w/ Rust-Oleum glossy and back again w/ a belt sander on the edges. Finished off with some clear coat.

Center- I also did the sides...

redcruz1120

I had my front and rear grills sent to the powdercoat shop. He blasted them and hit them with primer and finished them with semi black. They haven't been cleaned lately but they look better than on the pictures here.

FastLane73

Thanks Guys. Nice Pics. I think I will start with a satin paint and if not happy go a little more glossy. Need to find a paint that is tough; enamel???

Redcruz1120, what year is your car? I am looking at the rear vents and can see the painted red underneath. Mine doesn't have that. I can directly see below into the "trough".
Thanks Guys.

Acidgypsy

Richard,

I think you're supposed to lay on the creeper, not the box the creeper came in.... Just throwing that out there...

revitup

VHT SP027 Black Hood, Bumper and Trim Paint. The color is 'satin black'. Seems to hold up pretty well.

FastLane73

Thanks Revitup. I'll look into that.
Ted

Paul L

Have a look at Krylon semi-flat.

dprinter1

That's what everything else is done with.

Tooch1

Not sure if you've already finished this project yet or not. I recently restored a set of 73 grilles. I'm sure you are well aware these cost a fortune to buy a NOS set, if you can find them. And even at that they weren't really that great new. The pot metal would have a lot of defects in them. It's just that chrome edge (one year only for 73) that makes them so unique and costly. After I sanded mine down as best as I could, I sprayed a coat of primer on them. Then lightly sanded that, and added a couple light coats of John Deere Blitz Black. After letting it dry for a day, I used Krylon's Silver Leafing Pen to put the chrome 'like' edge on the fronts. This product is actually paint not a marker. Also, the tip has the perfect beveled edge, so it fits the edges of the grille perfectly and only gets the paint on the edge. The pen can be purchased at most local craft stores. I was very satisfied and surprised to see how well they came out for how bad they were. From a distance you can't tell. If you are not a 73' owner or an NCRS judge you wouldn't know they weren't correct. If you are not having the car judged, you might want to try this technique for the 73' front grille restoration.
Below are some before and after pictures of the process.
Regards,
Tooch

Tooch1

Here's the grilles with the silver leafing edge applied.

FastLane73

Thanks Tooch1. Project barely started (work gets in the way of my fun!). Planning on doping it this weekend. I don't recall my grills having a chrome edge to them. Possible option, early run, late run?? Pretty sure they are all solid black.
Ted

Tooch1

All grilles for 73 were made from pot metal, and all had the chrome edge. The 74's were made of die cast aluminum and were all black, with no chrome edges. There were NO options on the grille choice. The only item would be the center grille. If your car was delivered to a one plate state, you got the center grille. Two plate states you got the license plate bracket instead of the center grille.
Tooch.

Blue73Shark

Great idea on using the pen, Jimmy! I have been using chrome paint and a fine brush that is used by military modelers. Will have to try the pen next time I refurbish the front grills.
Fran

Lupigiato

Tooch - Great tip for restoring original grilles on the 73.

Tooch1

Thanks Fran,
Just keep in mind one tip if you try the pen.
Make sure you shake it up well, then get the tip wet with paint by practicing with it on a scrap piece of paper etc. once it is wet with paint start at an end and go all the way across the edge with one gradual motion, apply light pressure to keep the paint flowing, and lift up at the end. If you start and stop you'll make a darker line at that point. Leave the first coat dry completely before adding another to get the desired finish.
Pretty slick! And fun to do. No mess!
Jimmy

chazde3

Nice tips! Mine were repainted by a previous owner with a hammered wrought iron colored spray paint. This is on my eventual list.

FastLane73

Well Tooch1...I did a little research and appears you are probably right. My father is the original owner of the car and claims they were never chrome, but he did have a little work done and the car has been repainted many years ago so maybe they were painted over...but i can't imagine anyone painting over original chrome! Maybe they were replaced with 1974 models (both appear to have the same model number 331835 which is on mine). I will say they do look like they were repainted at some time forever ago as it doesn't look like a "factory" finish to me. Just another mystery to this car even though I have grown up driving the car (I'm 52 now) and can't say I recall either. Maybe a little paint stripper this weekend to see if chrome is underneath. They are getting painted regardless.

How can I tell it if is pot metal ('73) or aluminum ('74)?

Tooch1

FastLane,
It would be easy if you could use a magnet, but unfortunately because of all the different material thrown in the 'pot' to make pot metal a magnet won't stick. One thing I did notice when I was using my dremel tool to sand down mine I would occasionally get some sparks flying, which would of course mean hot metal pieces flying off. That would be a test, if you try it on the back somewhere. Don't think there would be sparks on aluminum?? (maybe someone else could offer up a better test?)
The original 73' grilles were zinc phosphate diecast then chrome plated over the entire grille. Then painted black, and the paint was removed from the edges revealing the chrome. I could just peal the chrome off mine in large pieces, sort of like really stiff/ sharp edged foil. Once you start removing your old paint, you should be able to reveal some original chrome plating if they are original 73' grilles. FYI, the OEM right side grille was discontinued back in 1986. But the left side grille was still available for almost ten more years. That's why if you search for OEM, or NOS 73' grille pieces you usually find more of the left side. Reason for this, is speculation, but since these were die cast , the mold for the right side either wore out or was broken, and GM didn't feel the need to replace it.
They do reproduce these in plastic now though. I think the 74' grilles are more plentiful now too, so many just settle for those. Keep in mind too, there are still shops out there who can still redo these, but your chrome edges must be in really good condition, but the cost will be pretty darn expensive $$$$. I've included another photo below to try to show more of the chrome plating and how it just flakes off. My center grille was in pretty good shape, note the shiny chrome edges on it!
Hope this helps, BTW, looking at your avatar you have a really nice looking Elkhart Green 73'.
Tooch

FastLane73

Thanks Tooch...what a lot of great info!
Going to try and start working on the project this evening. I did notice the cost of NOS, and the lack of supply of the right side. I'll keep mine and repaint.
Appreciate the thumbs up the car. It isn't a show car, but is in really nice shape and i did a lot of interior work last summer (see posts) but was a daily driver in the snow for many years. Lot of sentimental value and probably my favorite possession. Don't see many Elkhart green cars anymore. Giving you a thumbs up on the red convertible. My wife and i love convertibles.