trukatedave

Well, I am preparing to tack!e my 79's rear wheel bearings (first thing to do since purchasing 2 yrs ago). Does anyone have hints, tips or stories? I have a shop to use and the parts and tools but....... What say you?.............. Thanks........ Dave

DUB

When you 'say'...'tools'.

I HOPE you have the correct bearing set-up tool and spindle installation tool. I do this type of work for a living on Corvettes and I am a bit biased.....so....having the correct tools are worth it to me even though I know some people have done it other ways.

And also a tool that allows you to knock out the spindle IF the trailing arms are still mounted on the car.

A dial indicator also....and a rear wheel bearing puller to get the old bearing off the spindle. And the rotor needs to be removed to do this also.

DO NOT be surprised that the shim MAY NOT be able to be used. Due to tolerances in bearings...the shim may need to be replaced ....Because I shoot for no more than .003" run-out on the bearings when I am done. I know the manual states they can go as far a .008"....BUT....in my opinion...getting them tighter is better....and that is mainly due to the brake system.

DUB

spikebot 81

I had a local corvette shop do the end play set up because I didn't have the set up tool. I assembled the bearings and did the rotor run out adjustment myself. Remove and replace mechanics might have some issues with this project. But if your confident in your skills and you have a really good selection of tools you should have no problems. A GM repair manual for your year of car is must. Good luck

PS. Dub is spot on and I would never attempt this project with the trailing arms still attached to the frame of the car

trukatedave

I've collected the necessary set up and install tools, new bearings seals shims spacers dust covers pushers pullers and presses the manuals are available. Thanks for responding

doorgunner

Another Member made a statement last year about "making SURE" the inboard grease seal is slid onto the spindle so it can be seated once everything is installed on the spindle (maybe Dub can clarify this).

mardyn

Is it necessary to lubricate the rear wheel bearings or are they sealed?

mardyn

trukatedave

The bearings definitely need to be lubricated with a high temp grease.(and maintained/adjusted every so often)
Assembly order is wise to be practiced(measure twice cut once.... carpentry commandment)
Thanks for the input so far! ..,... Dave

DUB

Maybe I was misunderstood...but I never wrote that the trailing arms have to be out of the car. I do them with the trailing arms installed quite often.

Something is WRONG in what you wrote or what someone commented on.

When the spindle is being installed AFTER all of the set-up is confirmed. The bearing are greased...the shim and spacer are installed and BOTH inner and OUTER grease seals are seated in place. SO...the bearing support housing is holding the bearing assembly and NOTHING can fall out. NO NEED to pack/fill the inner reservoir of the bearing support housing BECAUSE it does not spin and it is a waste of grease. ONLY a good thin film on the inside not prevent rusting is needed. Then the inner DUST SHIELD is installed. Then using the installation tool...the spindle is PULLED though the bearing assembly and you use the inner bearing /u-joint flange but NO washer and torqued to 100 lbs/ft.

Then remove the installation tool....then install the thick washer and castle nut and then tighten the nut to 90 lbs/ft and THEN tighten it till the castle nut aligns with the cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin and bend it CORRECTLY and none of this crazy twisting it like it is a bread tie. Then it is DONE.

Make sure the THREADS on the end of the spindle where the castle nut goes are free of grease.

IF the castle nut STOPS and you can put the cotter pin right in it...NO need to tighten it more. BUT DO NOT loosen the torque to align the cotter pin hole. Which is WHY you do not want grease on the threads of the spindle. Grease DOES effect the torque and possibly damage threads due to the amount of torque.

DUB

plaidside

This is what can happen if you DO NOT grease the bearings.
The customer said that he just started hearing the noise.
Joe

trukatedave

Thanks DUB
Plaidside ...... I fear your picture .... I worry that's what I'm gonna find. Fingers crossed it's not that bad. Thanks!

mardyn

How does one grease or lube the rear wheel bearings... does it require hub disassembly or is there a grease fitting hiding back there somewhere I have not seen yet?

mardyn

Dirty Dalton

No grease fitting to the best of my recollection.

I did one myself. I removed the 'hub carrier' (uncertain of the official name) from the trailing arm, and took it to a shop to get pressed apart. There may have been a torch involved, I don't remember.

Once I had the spindle in hand I visited a neighbor who had been a machinist. He had a lathe in his backyard shop. I chucked the spindle in the lathe and, using sandpaper (I don't recollect the specifics) I took a wee bit off the spindle to the point that the bearings weren't such a tight fit (like an interference fit). It still took effort to get the bearing on, and I used red Locktite to ensure it stayed on.

Never had any trouble with it.

trukatedave

If the bearings were properly packed with grease at installation they shouldn't need more too often. Original bearing life was @ 40,000 miles ( I've read recently) . There is a bearing grease tool for sale but I'm not sure how it works. A fitting could be installed but waste of grease like DUB said,

Andy Tuttle

Hey Dub - How about a picture of your "correct bearing set-up tool and spindle installation tool? Seeing brand name and any other info about where we can get these useful items. Any recommendations before I jump in? Thanks! Andy

fishslayer143

Replacing spindle bearings can be done with Trailing arm still on car. No need to remove it unless you are working on front bushing too. the bearings are not serviceable to "grease often" as someone suggested .. it requires disassembly to grease outer bearing .. It will usually last for 100,000 or more miles if done correctly. ....Dub is correct, it does require a few specialized tools. and Run-out needs to be .001 to .006 in.... TIGHTER is better , 100 FT Lbs on the castlenut. ..The worst part will be getting the spindle out.. the rest is fairly simple

Sluefoot

Gary@vtech.com does this all the time.....That's where I sent mine!!

plaidside

GM use a slip fit in 1963 but changed to the interference fit I believe in 64.
So they must of had a problem with the slip fit for them to change and keep the interference fit to 1982.
Joe

trukatedave

Ecklers sells them in the catalog in the tool section . Mine haven't arrived yet. Thinking this may be a labor day weekend project.

fishslayer143

If you buy your parts from Duntov Motors.com they will rent you the tools for small fee and with a deposit refunded when you return them.

TheFixer

I did my half shaft u-joints at the same time, something you may want to consider. Mine were original 69 and were very tight. If you do them, make sure you mount the half shaft to the spindle when pressing, or you will bent the flanges. There is a tool for it as well, but I just used the spindles since they were out.


I also needed new U-bolts due to rusted on. They sell them at the auto parts stores, but not as corvette parts. They are the same as Dyna 44 (or something like that) axle u-bolts. I saved the part number at home if you think you need it. They were Moog parts.


My bearings got destroyed when trying to remove them from the spindle. You might want to just plan on replacing them. I have several different sized bearing pullers, but I could not get any of them under the center of the hub of the bearing, so it pulled the bearing apart. The bearings were cheaper than the cost of the frustration.


Be careful pressing on the dust cap as well. They can easily be damaged or distorted.