emblem paint
01-07-2016, 11:18 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
emblem paint
My nose and fuel door emblems are missing some paint. I want to get some paint to redo them. What kind of paint should i buy? I almost bought some Testors model paint in those little square bottles but thought better of it.
01-07-2016, 11:50 PM
#2
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
Posts: 33,954
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I need to redo mine, but getting the "glassy" finish is my problem.......
time for a "Forum Search".
time for a "Forum Search".
01-08-2016, 12:43 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
There's a bake on paint you can get that's supposedly more durable than the Testors enamel
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
01-08-2016, 08:24 AM
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
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Cruise-In II Veteran
I used Testor's hobby enamels on mine (black, white, and flag red). Look for the enamels and not the acrylics.
Last edited by Easy Mike; 01-08-2016 at 08:24 AM.
01-08-2016, 12:02 PM
#5
Drifting
I used testor's several years ago on my 70 coupe emblems and its hard to tell the real painted emblems from my hand painted emblems.
I found that it's best not to use to much paint and use a real fine pointed tip brush and push the paint into the tight corners rather than try to paint it into the tight spots. Add more paint as you go to fill the areas, you will see perfect results.
Some where I have a real emblem and my hand painted emblem picture and you cant tell the difference. I'll try to post it.
Greg
I found that it's best not to use to much paint and use a real fine pointed tip brush and push the paint into the tight corners rather than try to paint it into the tight spots. Add more paint as you go to fill the areas, you will see perfect results.
Some where I have a real emblem and my hand painted emblem picture and you cant tell the difference. I'll try to post it.
Greg
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FreakinVette (06-09-2020)
01-08-2016, 12:17 PM
#6
Drifting
Testers is what I used. Works great. I used a toothpick for the small/tight areas
01-08-2016, 03:55 PM
#8
First step is take a pic so you can remember where the paint goes..:0
Then choose the right color..mix with thinner and other colors to get the proper color..Do a test paint when you think you have the colors right.
You need to clean the emblems well with Q tips and acetone..to prep.
Paint with a good quality camel hair fine brush..Take your time and make certain emblem and paint is warm to 70F.
When the painting is done and dry.
Overspray well with a clear testors overcoat..
I did the emblems on my '78 Silver Anniversary in that manner and they look great and the paint has held up well.Did the hood and gas lid emblems, crossed flags and the hood emblems..Probably better than when new..
IF your eye and hand isn't up to such things..Do the prep..get the paint and brushes..and get a lady who has the eye and hands for the detailing and have her do the painting..
Great way to get the kids, grandkids or the wife involved in the detailing..Jim
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FreakinVette (06-09-2020)
01-08-2016, 04:47 PM
#9
Team Owner
Repainting exterior emblems is not a difficult task, if you use the right materials and good techniques. I start by stripping ALL of the old paint from the emblems by using a chemical stripper. Then, rinse and dry the emblem completely. Next you need to ‘stage’ the part: use clay or some kind of fixturing to hold the emblem in position so that you can apply paint without having to hold the part. This is also important so that you can position working areas in a completely horizontal position, so that paint flows outward from your brush and does not pool to one side.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 01-08-2016 at 04:55 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by 7T1vette:
FreakinVette (06-09-2020),
Majoho (01-12-2016)
01-08-2016, 09:07 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Nice find
Repainting exterior emblems is not a difficult task, if you use the right materials and good techniques. I start by stripping ALL of the old paint from the emblems by using a chemical stripper. Then, rinse and dry the emblem completely. Next you need to ‘stage’ the part: use clay or some kind of fixturing to hold the emblem in position so that you can apply paint without having to hold the part. This is also important so that you can position working areas in a completely horizontal position, so that paint flows outward from your brush and does not pool to one side.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
Thanks,
Bill
01-08-2016, 10:07 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
I tried the Testers paint and it came off the first time the car was washed. I have them installed unpainted. A lot of people at car shows tell me they like the look.
01-09-2016, 03:26 PM
#12
Team Owner
I've been to many 'judged' shows and the car does well. No one has noted a problem with the emblems. BUT, I've not had it judged by NCSR; and I suspect that they might ding the red paint 'appearance' a bit. The red in my emblem is a bit transluscent, as you can see the shine of the chrome through the paint. To me, that makes the emblem 'pop', rather than seeing just red paint. The white and black appear as solid colors, however. The photo above is a pretty good reference to what you will get.
Some folks who have seen my emblems and learn about Porcelain have asked me to do their emblems. I've done a few and everyone is very happy with them. But, I don't do it as a business...just as circumstances allow.
One of the nice things about doing the emblems this way is that you can still use chemical stripper to take off this paint if you don't like how it looks before you bake it. So, in 5-10 minutes you can redo one if it doesn't meet your quality standards. This is helpful on the first one or two you do, as it takes a bit of technique to do this so that the colors look brush-free and even in depth.
Good luck with yours.
Some folks who have seen my emblems and learn about Porcelain have asked me to do their emblems. I've done a few and everyone is very happy with them. But, I don't do it as a business...just as circumstances allow.
One of the nice things about doing the emblems this way is that you can still use chemical stripper to take off this paint if you don't like how it looks before you bake it. So, in 5-10 minutes you can redo one if it doesn't meet your quality standards. This is helpful on the first one or two you do, as it takes a bit of technique to do this so that the colors look brush-free and even in depth.
Good luck with yours.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 01-09-2016 at 03:29 PM.
01-09-2016, 04:04 PM
#13
Race Director
Tom...
01-09-2016, 04:13 PM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Repainting exterior emblems is not a difficult task, if you use the right materials and good techniques. I start by stripping ALL of the old paint from the emblems by using a chemical stripper. Then, rinse and dry the emblem completely. Next you need to ‘stage’ the part: use clay or some kind of fixturing to hold the emblem in position so that you can apply paint without having to hold the part. This is also important so that you can position working areas in a completely horizontal position, so that paint flows outward from your brush and does not pool to one side.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
01-09-2016, 06:30 PM
#15
Race Director
Repainting exterior emblems is not a difficult task, if you use the right materials and good techniques. I start by stripping ALL of the old paint from the emblems by using a chemical stripper. Then, rinse and dry the emblem completely. Next you need to ‘stage’ the part: use clay or some kind of fixturing to hold the emblem in position so that you can apply paint without having to hold the part. This is also important so that you can position working areas in a completely horizontal position, so that paint flows outward from your brush and does not pool to one side.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
DUB
01-09-2016, 11:35 PM
#16
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
Posts: 33,954
Received 4,216 Likes
on
2,766 Posts
THANKS to all the members who provided info!
05-12-2022, 10:25 PM
#17
Make this sticky please
Repainting exterior emblems is not a difficult task, if you use the right materials and good techniques. I start by stripping ALL of the old paint from the emblems by using a chemical stripper. Then, rinse and dry the emblem completely. Next you need to ‘stage’ the part: use clay or some kind of fixturing to hold the emblem in position so that you can apply paint without having to hold the part. This is also important so that you can position working areas in a completely horizontal position, so that paint flows outward from your brush and does not pool to one side.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
Purchase “Porcelaine” craft paint for glass and metal at craft stores (ie, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). Get ‘anthracite black’ [black], ‘veil white’ [white], ‘crimson red’ [red] and whatever other colors you need. You don’t need to buy the ‘thinner’ fluid if you don’t plan on needing these paints in the distant future. If you do, buy the thinner, also; you can then refresh old paints to proper consistency. Also buy an artist’s brush (good quality..not a cheapie plastic handle job) for this job. It should be a small round brush that comes to a fine point at the tip.
Stage the part so that an area, say the red flag, is positioned horizontally. Dip just the tip of the paint brush into the paint, then put the tip of the brush to the metal surface of the emblem. The paint will flow off the brush and onto the part. DO NOT TRY TO BRUSH PAINT ONTO THE EMBLEM. Continue this process until that area is filled properly. It’s best not to put brush on or very near a border, but to let paint flow TO the border areas. When an area is completed, let the paint dry enough so that it will not run when the emblem is repositioned for another area.
Do one color at a time and do all the areas required for that color before changing colors. When the part has received all colors needed, let the part dry completely…several hours or overnight.
Now, the part must be BAKED to covert it to a very durable, weather-proof, porcelain-LIKE surface. Follow the directions on the bottles to bake paint to completely cure it. I use a toaster oven which never is used for food prep. This works very well. Do not leave part in longer than time stated on bottles. If time/temps for different colors are different, use the lower temperature and/or the least time.
Below is a photo of one of my emblems. I’ve had mine painted for almost 10 years and they still look great.
_______________________
I'm not sure how to go about turning this post into a "Sticky", but if folks think it should be in the 'sticky' list, I'm fine with that.
05-13-2022, 08:37 AM
#18
I tried painting them, and I sucked at it.
I broke down, and bought repos from Paragon.
They look great, I cant tell the difference, but, my 71 is not a garage queen/100 pt car.
I broke down, and bought repos from Paragon.
They look great, I cant tell the difference, but, my 71 is not a garage queen/100 pt car.