Rebuilding rear drive train and suspension 1977 Corvette
10-09-2015, 10:04 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Rebuilding rear drive train and suspension 1977 Corvette
Hi all
Been awhile since I did a how to since there were a few idiots that ruined my how to install a Dual Exhaust system on the car. I am doing this for the benefit of my friends who want to perform the work and not argue with me on how to increase performance of a C3
I first put the 1977 Corvette on front end on Ramps not Jack Stands since I am not working on the front end but needed it lifted evenly to the rear. Why you may ask. Frame support on a C3 Sucks the way it was designed but is great when not lifted and all four wheels are on the ground. The Weight of the gas tank and rear differential will actually flex the bird cage and front frame about 1/4 of an inch if you just attempt to put jack stands in front of the rear wheels. So I lifted my rear suspension at the Mono Spring. Pictures starting next post and more How To do stuff.
You will need to remove the Exhaust System before performing the next steps. Since I installed the Exhaust System myself last spring I thought ahead and did not crank it all down tight then just dealt with a few rattles and leaks all summer knowing I had to remove it this fall. Remember it maybe not had a few that said a dual exhaust would not increase HP and Torque because they were clueless
Been awhile since I did a how to since there were a few idiots that ruined my how to install a Dual Exhaust system on the car. I am doing this for the benefit of my friends who want to perform the work and not argue with me on how to increase performance of a C3
I first put the 1977 Corvette on front end on Ramps not Jack Stands since I am not working on the front end but needed it lifted evenly to the rear. Why you may ask. Frame support on a C3 Sucks the way it was designed but is great when not lifted and all four wheels are on the ground. The Weight of the gas tank and rear differential will actually flex the bird cage and front frame about 1/4 of an inch if you just attempt to put jack stands in front of the rear wheels. So I lifted my rear suspension at the Mono Spring. Pictures starting next post and more How To do stuff.
You will need to remove the Exhaust System before performing the next steps. Since I installed the Exhaust System myself last spring I thought ahead and did not crank it all down tight then just dealt with a few rattles and leaks all summer knowing I had to remove it this fall. Remember it maybe not had a few that said a dual exhaust would not increase HP and Torque because they were clueless
Last edited by MakoJoe; 10-09-2015 at 10:19 PM.
10-09-2015, 10:15 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Tonight I lifted the rear suspension and supported it in preperation to remove the Mono Spring. I measured the ground to stretched hieght of my rear Brake Disks after lifting the car by the Center of the Mono Spring and Lowering some of the rear weight on to jack stands.
Than I cut some 2x4 lumber in my case it was 17 1/2 inches long to lift the rear until it was before lifting my car off the jack stands. Why because you have to have the Mono Spring Pins not binding and you need to lift them a little higher to remove the pins holding them
Than you release the jack stand to support it on the 2x4s
Next step remove the shocks. Remove the bottom side first and your life will be easier because there is still some weight on the Gas Shocks.
Than I cut some 2x4 lumber in my case it was 17 1/2 inches long to lift the rear until it was before lifting my car off the jack stands. Why because you have to have the Mono Spring Pins not binding and you need to lift them a little higher to remove the pins holding them
Than you release the jack stand to support it on the 2x4s
Next step remove the shocks. Remove the bottom side first and your life will be easier because there is still some weight on the Gas Shocks.
10-09-2015, 10:35 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Tomorrow evening I will show you how to remove the Mono Spring after you have seen how I supported it this evening. Going to drop out the entire rear suspension and drive train as a whole to work on it out of the car.
10-11-2015, 06:49 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Moved along today to lower the Mono Spring. Used a 3 Inch C-Clamp to prevent the jack from slipping as the Mono Spring is lowered from the Pins. Jacked it up just enough to remove the pressure off the pins and removed the lower bushings on each side. Than removed the Upper Spare Tire Pan.
Last edited by MakoJoe; 10-11-2015 at 06:52 PM.
10-11-2015, 07:41 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Next weekend I will be removing the rear brake system and capping it off so I do not leak brake fluid everywhere. Still need to buy some stuff to cap off the rubber lines before starting the removal. Then I will will be able to remove the 5 mounting points of the Differential which I will document how I did it. My intention this winter is remove the entire Differential and Trailing arms then drop it out as a complete unit since it will be easier to disassemble out of the car given how much of that 38 years of rust has some parts still frozen in place and do not want to be laying on my old *** back to remove these frozen parts. 
10-12-2015, 03:10 PM
#6
Drifting
I've got to ask. Why waste time removing the shocks?
And why put the rear spring under more tension, holding the trailing arm up with a 2x4 under a drilled, non bolted rotor? You could have just jacked the spring up to remove tension from the cushion and removed the nut.
Have you ever removed the entire rear suspension in one piece on a vette before? It's not like pulling the rear end out of a pickup.
And why put the rear spring under more tension, holding the trailing arm up with a 2x4 under a drilled, non bolted rotor? You could have just jacked the spring up to remove tension from the cushion and removed the nut.
Have you ever removed the entire rear suspension in one piece on a vette before? It's not like pulling the rear end out of a pickup.
10-12-2015, 06:04 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Guess I will be finishing this on another forum Since there is always someone that has to come out and ruin it than ask stupid questions.
Sorry guys your loss on this how I did it
Since there is always someone that has to come out and ruin it than ask stupid questions. Sorry guys your loss on this how I did it
10-12-2015, 06:26 PM
#8
Drifting
WOW! Touchy.
I ask a few simple questions without being a smart a$$ and you get all pi$$y.
Since you have the car tore down this would be a time to jack up the front and fix the ball joints you installed wrong.
"Since there is always someone that has to come out and ruin it than ask stupid questions" You're saying I ruined it because I DIDN'T ask a stupid question?
"Sorry guys your loss on this how I did it" Only thing I am seeing guys lose out on is wasted time, wasted money, and possible injury. And how to re-install new parts upside down.
Your "my way or the highway" attitude along with your extreme lack of experience and refusal to take any advice from people that do know what they are doing is one reason why the experienced people are avoiding the forums.
Here's two more items to read up on: proofreading and spellcheck.
I ask a few simple questions without being a smart a$$ and you get all pi$$y.
Since you have the car tore down this would be a time to jack up the front and fix the ball joints you installed wrong.
"Since there is always someone that has to come out and ruin it than ask stupid questions" You're saying I ruined it because I DIDN'T ask a stupid question?
"Sorry guys your loss on this how I did it" Only thing I am seeing guys lose out on is wasted time, wasted money, and possible injury. And how to re-install new parts upside down.
Your "my way or the highway" attitude along with your extreme lack of experience and refusal to take any advice from people that do know what they are doing is one reason why the experienced people are avoiding the forums.
Here's two more items to read up on: proofreading and spellcheck.
Last edited by tracdogg2; 10-12-2015 at 07:01 PM.
10-12-2015, 06:51 PM
#9
Drifting
I didn't see anything that you said wrong. You was just trying to be helpful that's how I see it.
10-12-2015, 07:06 PM
#10
Racer
Neither did I.....I always like to know the reasoning for why people do things like they do....I can always learn sumpin', even if I don't do it thata way!
10-13-2015, 04:32 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Please continue, or at least PM me with where you will be continuing this.
Don't let a few comments deter you from helping the rest of us.
Ken
PS. Tracdog2, maybe you should re-read your post, I read it and thought the same as MakoJoe did. And your follow up comment proved he was correct in his assumption. If you have a better way of doing this, post your own thread. I would love to read it also.
10-13-2015, 05:06 PM
#13
Drifting
Oh I don't think any harm has been done here. Tracdogg2 is very knowledgeable and is trying to help. He was just asking legitimate questions. This can still be an informative thread. Some times car guys rib other car guys, it's all good. I think we all do it at work, don't we?
Last edited by jr73; 10-13-2015 at 05:08 PM.
10-13-2015, 05:24 PM
#14
I've got to ask. Why waste time removing the shocks?
And why put the rear spring under more tension, holding the trailing arm up with a 2x4 under a drilled, non bolted rotor? You could have just jacked the spring up to remove tension from the cushion and removed the nut.
Have you ever removed the entire rear suspension in one piece on a vette before? It's not like pulling the rear end out of a pickup.
And why put the rear spring under more tension, holding the trailing arm up with a 2x4 under a drilled, non bolted rotor? You could have just jacked the spring up to remove tension from the cushion and removed the nut.
Have you ever removed the entire rear suspension in one piece on a vette before? It's not like pulling the rear end out of a pickup.
If that were the case, I think it might be better to support the trailing arm itself with the wood block instead of the brake rotor. That way you could more easily rotate the shaft to get at the bolts.
Having the shock removed makes it easier to move the trailing arm assembly around. I think he planned on replacing them anyway.
As far as the ball joints? Other than changing the steering geometry/alignment, is it a big deal, structurally speaking, if they are mounted on the lower side of the control arm? I am not that smart on caster, camber, toe-in and all. Does the ball joint need to have that flange above the control arm, or will the bolts and nuts be strong enough mounted under it?
I think my OCD tendencies would have me pulling those dang things and replacing them on top. Think you would be able to do it on the car?
Unfortunately, I have too much experience doing things twice, or even three times! How else do you learn, right? Hah, that gives me an idea--
JMO.
Also, it is easy to misconstrue written comments. No body language, no voice inflections or tones.
Just sayin.
It would be nice for you to finish the post, MakoJoe. I hope you do.
10-13-2015, 06:00 PM
#16
Drifting
CV, it is a structural issue on the front ball joints. The inward load is now applied to the bolts and not the mounting surface of the arm. There is a slight change in kingpin inclination and ackerman angle and will have a slight effect on the anti-dive geometry of the a-arms. The important reason if it does break the bolts and causes damage or injury to someone other, it's one big lawsuit. Now if he had used a quality ball joint like a Moog, it could not have been installed wrong. It can be easily changed on the car without taking anything else loose but the wheel.
10-13-2015, 06:51 PM
#17
Drifting
"PS. If you have a better way of doing this, post your own thread. I would love to read it also. "
Tell you what Ken, if someone is willing to take pics of every step I do, from start to finish on a complete rear suspension and differential rebuild, I will take the time to write it up.
Getting back to this thread, would it be better if:
A. I sat back and said nothing until it was all done and then pointed out the mistakes made?
B. Wait until someone gets hurt and then say something?
C. Ask questions during the thread.
A man that does not make mistakes learns very little.
It's better to learn from someone else's mistakes.
The second mouse gets the cheese.
Tell you what Ken, if someone is willing to take pics of every step I do, from start to finish on a complete rear suspension and differential rebuild, I will take the time to write it up.
Getting back to this thread, would it be better if:
A. I sat back and said nothing until it was all done and then pointed out the mistakes made?
B. Wait until someone gets hurt and then say something?
C. Ask questions during the thread.
A man that does not make mistakes learns very little.
It's better to learn from someone else's mistakes.
The second mouse gets the cheese.
10-13-2015, 07:16 PM
#18
MakoJoe, you should really swap those around. I would get new bolts and nuts for it, too. Better safe than sorry, bro. I remember looking at that thread to see if you went with rivets or bolts, and didn't notice the way it was mounted. At least it will be easier with the bolts and nuts.
You may have to stop for some Beck's on the way home from work, you don't want to have to drink the wine again! LOL, that was probably the distraction! Not enough Beck's!
10-14-2015, 01:31 PM
#19
Moved along today to lower the Mono Spring. Used a 3 Inch C-Clamp to prevent the jack from slipping as the Mono Spring is lowered from the Pins. Jacked it up just enough to remove the pressure off the pins and removed the lower bushings on each side. Than removed the Upper Spare Tire Pan.
10-14-2015, 07:08 PM
#20
Drifting
Everyone is getting ahead of the facts.
Joe was doing this big runaround, showing all these steps involved in removing the outer spring bolts (not pins). When none of it is necessary. The shocks are holding the trailing arms up from full droop. The only step is to put the jack under the spring and remove the nut. There is no reason to raise the arm first.
Here's the safety issue. His method now has a trailing arm assembly, close to 100 lbs, being pulled downward by spring tension, on a free standing 2x4 resting under a rotor that is not solidly mounted to anything. And then remove the only item giving any type of resistance and travel limit, the shock.
It would have taken much less time to just remove the spring.
He wasn't planning on removing the halfshaft bolts, he was going to remove everything as an entire assembly. Which is why I asked him if he had ever done it before. Thousands of mechanics and normal people have removed the rear ends out of pickups, by themselves, with a floor jack. But on a vette you have over twice the weight and two 100 lb trailing arms flopping and twisting. It never comes out pretty. The best part is that it is much easier to take apart while it is in the car than on the ground. Rust or no rust.
P.S. Joe, only early Camaro's and ChevyII's used a mono spring. Corvette uses a transverse spring. But everyone just calls it a......spring.
Joe was doing this big runaround, showing all these steps involved in removing the outer spring bolts (not pins). When none of it is necessary. The shocks are holding the trailing arms up from full droop. The only step is to put the jack under the spring and remove the nut. There is no reason to raise the arm first.
Here's the safety issue. His method now has a trailing arm assembly, close to 100 lbs, being pulled downward by spring tension, on a free standing 2x4 resting under a rotor that is not solidly mounted to anything. And then remove the only item giving any type of resistance and travel limit, the shock.
It would have taken much less time to just remove the spring.
He wasn't planning on removing the halfshaft bolts, he was going to remove everything as an entire assembly. Which is why I asked him if he had ever done it before. Thousands of mechanics and normal people have removed the rear ends out of pickups, by themselves, with a floor jack. But on a vette you have over twice the weight and two 100 lb trailing arms flopping and twisting. It never comes out pretty. The best part is that it is much easier to take apart while it is in the car than on the ground. Rust or no rust.
P.S. Joe, only early Camaro's and ChevyII's used a mono spring. Corvette uses a transverse spring. But everyone just calls it a......spring.
Last edited by tracdogg2; 10-14-2015 at 07:16 PM.