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What else should I look at changing? The wires appear to be in good shape so I don't know if I want to change those while I'm in there or not. Open to suggestions.
Standard makes good products just avoid the economy line.
Just curious why are you changing the module and fuel pump? Are they bad?
Most simple tune ups will just be cap, rotor, plugs and wires. If you have fuel filters external or in the carb it would be good to change those as well. Also if the coolant is old, might be time for a flush.
Module - Honestly I don't know. I figured it's part of the assembly and better safe than sorry? If you think that's moot, I'm A OK with dropping the most expensive item from my to purchase list!
The pump, is actually part of troubleshooting a different problem with a bit of hesitation when I'm really getting on it. Guess really that was my thought behind the ICM as well.
Filters are new (fuel and air) and coolant... I'm not sure the age of that one.
Car is 1 month old, to me. So I'm just trying to cover bases and make sure everything is tip top.
The hesitation could be a few different things. My first guess would be to check the carb adjustments and jetting.
I would save the money and not worry about the fuel pump, module or coil. I my experience you know when one of those three go out. The fuel pumps normally start leaking when they are done. With a pressure gauge you could easily see if it is still good. The modules should be fine if the car runs. When they go out you will not be able to start the car. As for the coil I think there is a way to test them, but my experience has been like the module. When they go you will not be able to start the car. Sometimes they will show issues starting when hot.
Your wires can be checked with a ohm meter. Just make sure they are not way off and if they are replace them.
No pump in stock.
No brass/copper caps in stock, aside from an MSD Cap that alone would nearly cost the entirety of my purchase list.
They have the plugs, I'll be getting those locally.
Otherwise I was looking at 3-5 business days for the parts to come in. Small town USA. It gives a lot but it can take a lot as well.
I'd like to take this on with my kids this weekend (hence, the lack of motivation to wait up to 5 business days). Hopefully they will learn a bit more about cars and I'll get practice to find replacement words for the curse words I use far too often when out there alone.
Started with the plugs. So much easier than everything I was reading. Got them all from the top, even had the kids do the drivers side!
Tomorrow the kids and I will tackle the cap and rotor.
Not positive how one should actually check the vacuum advance, but when I unhook it the idle certainly falls.
Changed the cap and rotor this morning.
Getting the coil out of the old cap... wow. Just broke apart the old cap to get it to release.
Then putting everything together I cracked the distributor cap cover... great.
Nothing in the way. Cap fits nice and tight, all internals fit snuggly so before I run out to grab another cover, anyone have some suggestions on how to get this part to slide down onto the cap without cracking?
Thanks,
Nick
I am working of memory here, but the hei distributors I have messed with everything went together easy. The cover screwed down onto the cap. Once the screwed were removed it came right off. The same with the coil, remove the screws and it was loose. I think though the coil leads might have been harder to pull out the cap.
Plugs, filters and etc that are service items to be replaced due to mileage or age should be replaced.
On everything else I've always made the assumption that the "older" part on my car is better than many of the new items I can buy, unless I'm experiencing symptoms that specifically indicate that part is failing. In my case I replaced lots of parts trying to sort a problem.. turned out to be a failure on a condenser that only had about 6 month and 300 miles on it.
The hesitation you are trying to cure under heavy acceleration, beginning, end in the middle of your heavy acceleration? RPM range?
The cover slid off the old cap no issues at all. Thinking the standard motors cap is wider around the coil. Going to try to find a cover specifically for that cap.
Could did not slid out of the old nor into the new. It took work. It is NOT the original coil. Just looks too new so maybe it's not the right one and it is actually pressing out on the new caps coil holder sides thus making the cover not fit?
Non of this was to cure the hesitation issues, just me wanting to get easy items replaced that could have been neglected by previous owners.
However the hesitation is at the beginning of my rpm range, normally. Most times I see the problem on takeoff but have see it when dropping to 3rd to pass someone as well.
I have all the old plugs that I will photograph and post in hopes that those that know better than I can weigh in on rich/lean/etc.
Nick
When I rebuilt my hei I used the dr450 cap and dr318 rotor from standard motor. The coil cover and stock gm coil fit in without any issue. As yu mentioned that coil could be your problem. Are there any manufacturer marks on it?
No markings on the top side of the coil at all.
Not sure about the bottom. I'm guessing it will cost me a cap to find out. Here it is sitting in the old cap. Notice they smashed the power wire with the cover. I have it routed correctly in the new cap so it's not continuing to be smashed until it breaks.
Another view of the smashed wire (reason to get a new coil?). It appears to have jjuusstt pushed through the wire casing. Also it's fitment (or lack there of) into the new cap.
I do not see anything obvious. When you seated the coil did you get the rotor contact in correctly? If not that could cause the cover to sit up too high. Additionally, you mentioned correcting the wire issue. The black wires are not getting in the way are they? On the coils I replaced I had a metal ground strap that sat under the coil on the right side. I see you have a wire there that goes to the plug.
07-28-2015, 01:30 PM
Tune up Parts list - Thoughts?
