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I initially thought this thread was full of bovine scatology, but now that there is pics...I'll be damned.
I would have bet something was 'lost in translation' as well... but I guess you can never underestimate the clever stupidity of 'bubba' or however you would translate that into the Espanol...
I would have bet something was 'lost in translation' as well... but I guess you can never underestimate the clever stupidity of 'bubba' or however you would translate that into the Espanol...
Maybe something like "hermanos locos"?
So then gm was bubba before 65 when the c2's had rear drums?
Don't I just need the trailing arms, how about off sets? completely assemble plus rotors and calipers? In any case that I need this thing instead I have a friend that imports used parts to cr all I have to do is ship it to his address in Orlando and he takes care of the rest. Thanks for the info on that.
Is more interested in making fun of the thread than helping. So if you guys want to talk about the fact that it has drums instead of rotors. So wake up call for the ones that just want to make fun of it. 1 stop being jealous of the fact that I'm restoring my dads car. 2 u.s.a cars have a lot of bad reputation outside the states in Costa Rica is very rare to see American cars and specially back in those days. Who ever brought this to Costa Rica might not have realize what he was getting into. As a fact up until 2005-06 it was really hard to find any type of spare part for American cars. So actually who ever did that was just trying to keep the car running at a high cost but it kept it running. Just like in Cuba perfect example where people has adapte and create their own parts to keep the cars running. So please stop laughing and start helping if not better don't coment. Now any1 interested in solutions is really welcome. Thank you. Stop hating haters!!!
Is more interested in making fun of the thread than helping. So if you guys want to talk about the fact that it has drums instead of rotors. So wake up call for the ones that just want to make fun of it. 1 stop being jealous of the fact that I'm restoring my dads car. 2 u.s.a cars have a lot of bad reputation outside the states in Costa Rica is very rare to see American cars and specially back in those days. Who ever brought this to Costa Rica might not have realize what he was getting into. As a fact up until 2005-06 it was really hard to find any type of spare part for American cars. So actually who ever did that was just trying to keep the car running at a high cost but it kept it running. Just like in Cuba perfect example where people has adapte and create their own parts to keep the cars running. So please stop laughing and start helping if not better don't coment. Now any1 interested in solutions is really welcome. Thank you. Stop hating haters!!!
Don't let them get you down. Many who are insecure about themselves like to make fun of others so they can feel better about themselves and feel superior. Most have no clue about how things are in the world away from their little neighborhood. Just the fact you are using English to get information takes much more skill and intellect than most of them will ever have. The reason I said what I did in post #17 is because I have spent time in many countries and have seen what taxes, and lack of "correct" parts can do. Most of these guys cant even do real repair work, they have to find someone.
At minimum I see:
T/A's x2 (L and R) Complete with disk brakes (what E-brake hardware do they come with?
Stainless T/A shim kit with bolts (enough for both sides)
4 Shocks (F and R)
6 Ujoints
Rear spring (fiberglass) and mount kit
Sway bar bushings
rubber brake line kit (front and rear)
Caliper rebuild kit (o-ring style) or a bolt on kit from Willwood (?)
A gallon of some type of rust penetrating fluid (I see lots of wrecked knuckles under that car.
Possibilities:
Id suspect at minimum a diff fluid change. Rebuild depending on condition.
Rear diff HD cover (check for cracks)
Have a look at:
Body mounts (#2), now bad has the salt air or moisture eaten away the body structure?
Steel fuel and brake lines running front to back
#4 body mounts (inside the rear wheelwell)
Frame condition under doors and in front of the rear wheel
I think that's going to be enough of a financial shock.
You said you wanted to rebuild this at whatever cost, Be prepared, your wallet is in for a rough ride.
is there anyway to get this with out the rotors. I've seen a set of 4 wildwood roots for this car for about 350$ and they come drill and slotted? Any ideas?
Yes, you can get complete rebuilt trailing arms without the rotors from several sources. The one I used and can recommend is Vtech Corvette. A pair would run about $1,040 plus shipping. http://www.vtechcorvette.com/Trailing-Arms.html
Originally Posted by amandico82
Just wandering something like this 2 kits could make the trick?
You only need one of those kits -- it includes everything you need for your brakes, both front and rear. Based on age, you might also need a power brake booster (if the car is equipped with power brakes). Boosters sell for about $75 from RockAuto.com or $200 from the Corvette specialty outlets.
At minimum I see:
T/A's x2 (L and R) Complete with disk brakes (what E-brake hardware do they come with?
Stainless T/A shim kit with bolts (enough for both sides)
4 Shocks (F and R)
6 Ujoints
Rear spring (fiberglass) and mount kit
Sway bar bushings
rubber brake line kit (front and rear)
Caliper rebuild kit (o-ring style) or a bolt on kit from Willwood (?)
A gallon of some type of rust penetrating fluid (I see lots of wrecked knuckles under that car.
Possibilities:
Id suspect at minimum a diff fluid change. Rebuild depending on condition.
Rear diff HD cover (check for cracks)
Have a look at:
Body mounts (#2), now bad has the salt air or moisture eaten away the body structure?
Steel fuel and brake lines running front to back
#4 body mounts (inside the rear wheelwell)
Frame condition under doors and in front of the rear wheel
I think that's going to be enough of a financial shock.
You said you wanted to rebuild this at whatever cost, Be prepared, your wallet is in for a rough ride.
dodosmike
Thanks for the list. However I allready got most of the suspension. I don't care about the lines, fluid and that kinda stuff cause we can do this down there no problem. Also my dad has a body shop and this is not our first restoration. We know a lot about restoring welding rust, etc we just have no clue on vettes this is our first and only and besides the fact that I got a restoration manual we want to be sure we are restoring this the right way. At this point all I need to make it driveable again is trailing arms, rotors, calipers, shims and hub. Also we are going to get the offset trailing arms, so we can fit the 17x8 wheels with out a problem. But thanks again every1 for all your help. The car might not be ready until next year but thanks for everything.
Yes, you can get complete rebuilt trailing arms without the rotors from several sources. The one I used and can recommend is Vtech Corvette. A pair would run about $1,040 plus shipping. http://www.vtechcorvette.com/Trailing-Arms.html
You only need one of those kits -- it includes everything you need for your brakes, both front and rear. Based on age, you might also need a power brake
booster (if the car is equipped with power brakes). Boosters sell for about $75 from RockAuto.com or $200 from the Corvette specialty outlets.
Hi, thanks for the link that's the cheapest I've seen since I started looking. Thank you.
A suggestion about rebuilding the rear end. I'd recommend a composite rear spring from VBP. It weighs 8 pounds versus the 41 pounds for the steel spring, plus its soooo much easier to install than the steel spring.
At minimum I see:
T/A's x2 (L and R) Complete with disk brakes (what E-brake hardware do they come with?
Stainless T/A shim kit with bolts (enough for both sides)
4 Shocks (F and R)
6 Ujoints
Rear spring (fiberglass) and mount kit
Sway bar bushings
rubber brake line kit (front and rear)
Caliper rebuild kit (o-ring style) or a bolt on kit from Willwood (?)
A gallon of some type of rust penetrating fluid (I see lots of wrecked knuckles under that car.
Possibilities:
Id suspect at minimum a diff fluid change. Rebuild depending on condition.
Rear diff HD cover (check for cracks)
Have a look at:
Body mounts (#2), now bad has the salt air or moisture eaten away the body structure?
Steel fuel and brake lines running front to back
#4 body mounts (inside the rear wheelwell)
Frame condition under doors and in front of the rear wheel
I think that's going to be enough of a financial shock.
You said you wanted to rebuild this at whatever cost, Be prepared, your wallet is in for a rough ride. 17x8 wheels plus tire set. The paint,workmanship and upholstery. My dad will do it in his shop. So as long as I stay under $9000 in parts I'll be ok. We got the car for $5000 the guy was desperate and the car was deteorating and it was park in the street. So I guess this thing fix plus what we paid for it goes around $14-17k still a pretty good. A few years ago some guy offer my dad $20k the way it was so imagine fix. Like I said this things are worth more there cause they tend to be pretty rare.
dodosmike
Close to $4000 invested at this moment. This is all interior parts, suspension rebuild kit and body mount kit polyurethane, hid headlights,led tail lights, new side mark lights and turn signals, cargo rack, cargo strap, t-top bags, complete weather stripping kit, rear view mirrors, front lip spoiler. Next on the list, suspension which I'm still undecided between koni or tokiko, (I been reading here on the forum that the bilsteins tend to drive harder. And knowing my dad he is not a fan of stiff rides.) a complete set of TA, plus 4 new rotors, and new rear calipers,
06-29-2015, 09:12 PM
