LannyL81

I am adding power door locks to my '81 and need a picture of how the power door lock wire harness comes through the metal inner door panel, and where the ground connection is and what hole the wire harness retainer pushes into on the passenger side door.

I know ALOT to ask, but I just want to make it like factory.

Thanks in advance.

hunt4cleanair

Have you checked the AIM? There are a couple of graphics in it that depict assembly of the door lock mechanics and wiring harness. See pp 247-252

LannyL81

Yep, checked the AIM and also the Service Manual...both just not quite detailed enough. Although I did find a picture of a door panel with power lock that has helped.

Lakeside49

Here is the panel and foam insulation off from my `82 so that you can have a look. Hope this helps.
Dave

LannyL81

Lakeside49:yes that helps....thank you...the power lock harness comes out the bottom of the inner door panel??...hmmm....interesting.

Any chance you took a picture of the passenger side door so I could see where the ground connection is at and where the harness push-in holder goes in? Do not take the door panel off just for a picture for me....not worth the effort.

Lakeside49

As requested, attached is the passenger side. It was not a problem - my wife and daughter were just wondering what I was doing, going back & forth to the car in the garage. I commend your level of detail for this project. Just be sure to do the same for someone else needing something, someday. In hindsight, I should have pulled the pigtail through the foam insulation for context, but I think you get the idea. You can see where I added some cushioning as a preventative measure to prevent abrasion because it is pulled very snug against its egress hole at the bottom
Dave

LannyL81

Wow....that was so far above the call of duty! Many thanks. And yes I will definitely do this for another in the future. In fact I am going to take some pictures and store them.

So is there any reason to think that the wiring harness routing in your '82 has been changed from what was done in the factory? Again I just want to keep the routing factory.

Thanks once again.

Lakeside49

I think, from talking extensively to the original owner that the only thing he did was change out the actuators and then added the foam. I am surprised at how little he did to the car, nearly a time capsule, for the 31.5 years that he and his wife owned it. Not even the door hinges or any other external moving parts had been lubed in its 43,700 miles, let alone wire routings to myknowledge

LannyL81

Many thanks again. I have routed the wiring harnesses using your pictures. The passenger side fit perfectly; driver's side is just a bit long...I had no idea as to what the factory length was so I guessed when I installed the new power door lock switch connector pigtail. Should not be a problem though....I just pulled the extra into the dash...do not want the extra in the door and risk getting snagged by the window movement!

Lakeside49

You might want to tie-wrap the extra wiring under the dash to avoid rattles. And, I used at least a half tube of lithium grease lubing all of the rollers, guides, scissoring hinge and window $ door lock mechanisms before putting on the door panels. And, used residual foam purses to notch and install at key places on both the door locking and door opening rods as well so they don't hit metal-to-metal. Pay particular attention to where the door lock rod comes through the square hole in the door (add foam or duct tape around the squaw to insulate it) which is a common source of rattling noise when closing the door. Between the lube and insulation they sound and operate like showroom new. You should feel pretty good about the reverse engineering and craftsman ship you've applied to this project. Wait until you hear that first "thwack" sound!