Mark G

To remove the bearing off the spindle, can a guy use a standard split bearing removal tool under the bearing (inner race) and just press the spindle down with a hydraulic press? I assume it would work, but most tutorials show using the special bearing tool.

Thanks,

Mark

Rally68

Large bearing splitter from Harbor Freight. The bolts bear on the spindle flange. A few turns and you're in business.

doorgunner

I used this method (but I had to modify the puller by grinding tapered shoulders on the puller to a sharp edge so that they would fit between the bearing shoulder and the spindle shoulder)......Take your time and tighten all bolts equally if you do not use a press.......




(Not shown here--I polished the spindleshaft/checked for run-out/warp ----before installing new grease seal/original bearings)



Anew nut was needed.......

Rally68

Now that you mention it DG I'm sure I had to do some grinding on that bearing splitter as well...

Texas70

When you re-used the bearings did the running clearance need to be re-shimmed or did you just put the same shim pack in? I only ask because I want to disassemble the arms for cleaning and paint, but the bearings feel good and the clearance is good.

Krystal

I wouldn't know Mark......the whole job seemed like a BIG PIA!!

I found myslef using the ultimate "bailout" tool for this one a few years ago.......$$.

We.....and when I say "we" ....I mean my husband pulled the arms out as as complete units and just sent 'em off to Vette Brake in Florida in trade for completed rebuilds.

Other than bolt 'em back in and get 'em aligned......I have no idea what was actually done......but it sure did make the car like new again.

No more rear end steering or ugly hum from that right rear bearing that was trying it's best to just disintegrate to dust in the last few months of it's existence.

Rally68

I don't know how far along you are with this project, but if you don't want to go through setting up the bearings, then I would leave the hub assembled. First, I only know of two methods for getting the spindle out/inner bearing off (use a press or screw on a spindle knocker and beat it out with a hammer) and IMHO neither can be done without damaging the bearing; second, while you could re-use the outer bearing if you remove it carefully, you're still going to have to set the endplay because you're using a new inner bearing (and race). my 2c.

doorgunner

I was going to take a short-cut and reassemble the original bearings with the original shims since they were in good shape.....

BUT......I forced myself to listen to the experts on the Forum....I polished/cleaned/reassemble the hub/spindle/bearing assembly and using a dial indicator.....found .008 endplay in the "dry" assembly (within factory tolerance....BUT..The other trailing arm assembly was a Vendor rebuilt assembly that had only .002" endplay!!!

I disassembled ( ) everything.....used a bearing spacer .006 thinner than the original spacer.......reassembled everything "dry" (no grease).......and had less than .003 endplay which is what tolerance most Vendors rebuild assemblies to........

THEN I disassembled ( ) the parts.....installed the grease seal on the spindle..........re-packed the inner bearing and outer bearings.....reassembled everything according to the Service Manual...torqued the nut to specs.....

THERE WAS NO ENDPLAY UNTIL I ROTATED THE SPINDLE BY HAND ABOUT 20 TIMES-----THEN THE GREASE "SPREAD OUT" IN THE BEARINGS......It ended up with less than .003" end-play.

Now....I'm a rookie....so, make sure you take the advice of Expert Forum Members!