RobRace10

Color code 978 is International Blue

Revi

The lower firewall and under car splash/heat shields are missing as well.


The transmission is stamped 18S406662 P8T04
P - Muncie
8 - 68 model year
T - December
04 - 4th (Built Dec 4, 1967 for model year 68)
VIN 18S406662 was built in Dec. 1967

Your Trim Tag looks like it shows L12 which would be a July 1968 build.

qwank

I'd try to get my $500 deposit back

diehrd

Why so you could get more parts for that 82 LMAO

seacliffe301

Yes, yes, and yes!

Wow, the more I read about this car… I just don't know. There is much that is either missing, or improperly equipped here. I don't want to rain on your dream car, but these costs add up quick, especially if you are paying for labor.
You could find yourself being 25k into this car just correcting what's incorrect. That's before new paint, new interior, new top, rebuilt drivetrain, etc.
When the car is being inspected, I would see if your guy (or gal) can give you a sense of costs associated. If you see the bigger picture of what's involved here, it may make more sense to pay more up front for a car that requires less.

When I bought my car ('72 convertible), it had 10k in body restoration and new paint already done, but nothing else. I just systematically went through the restoration of the car over the next several years.
Thing was, nothing was missing from the car, and all existing parts were correct. No molestation whatsoever. Any subsequent dollars were just spent on making things new.

Like any project, try and figure out what you want to spend to achieve your goal, and then determine if this car will allow you to stay within your budget. Remember, there are a lot of these cars out there.
Good luck.

7T1vette

C4's were great cars....functionally (well, except for the 4+3 thing). But, the buying market doesn't care that much for the styling; and Americans buy stuff for LOOKS, not function. For those that want a good "vehicle", C4's will still have a life. But, I doubt that they will ever be in demand like C1/C2/C3 Corvettes.

CanadaGrant

For the money it looks ok to me. Starter in the pic is not near right along with a bunch of other things but the car looks good for it's age. Nice old car but nothing special. I kind of like it....

rmendoza

After reading all these responses and going over the documentation, pictures and reexamining my '68 that I just bought in Nov, I have to agree with getting your $500 back or just walking, unless you're just going to drive it like it is and fix it as it breaks. As already said by some, this is going to eat you alive as you start restoring, for example you'll need new or rechromed bumpers front and back and the front bumper guards. $1,500 I know I just bought them as one of the few thing my '68 needs and yours needs so much.

If you can get your $500 back and have another $8K or so to put with your $14,999 and have a little patience and shop around and you can find a nice number's matching original correct paint nice one that needs little like mine.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...ter-23710.html

Also on the top The chrome plated strips on the top are not aftermarket reproduced, so if it's dented or the chrome is scraped off you have to fine another which will be difficult to find at best. The other stupid way of storing these tops is on the end tips leaning against the wall. The tips are fiberglass and damaged by the weight. You can always cover with the chrome tips that they came out with in '69 and later, but you said you wanted to restore it and the '68 had no tips.

Good luck

TLSVette

NCRS representative had the inspection done this morning. A few highlights:

1. It's a decent car that has aged a bit. The underside has aged, there is cracking around the battery seating, but there has been no wreck or impact or rusting on the frame itself.

2. The front and rear suspension is OK, functional for now - need to replace bushings, but can't tell on the bearings or universal joints yet. He recommends taking care of the suspension down the road but doesn't need it now to be driven.

3. Tires are 5 years old, look new but they could go bad quickly - recommends replacing them.

4. Front brake had rusted calipers, the guy put WD40 on it and rubbed the rust away and now it looks fine. Breaks were a bit iffy on the initial go but after the test drive went a few minutes in, they responded nicely. He recommends replacing the brake lines and flushing the system.

5. Wheels are from a 1969+ model, and a little wider than the original; custom wheels were on there before these new 8" were put on, and he says they look good and will be good for performance.

6. Headlights, wipers, dash lights, brake lights, etc. all work. Fuel gauge has an issue that he thinks is just a fuse.

7. The car starts great, runs great, sounds great. It is a verified factory original numbers matching rear and engine (rebuilt) that is strong and the transmission is smooth. The original transmission is included with the purchase and can be nursed back to health.

8. Interior is original and OK - aging, but OK. Dash has a bit of a crack but is fine for now. The top is new. Radiator has been replaced, a fan was placed inside with a switch that can cool the engine beyond "natural" if needed. Otherwise, the rest is original.

9. Wiring is functional but old - he recommends I re-do the engine wiring harness and clean it up a bit. Some fiberoptics work and some don't.

10. The body may have been hit on the left rear corner and front right corner. There is stress cracking around the headlights and hood, may be a replaced fender on the front right. The front valence hit a curb and has been repaired but the spoiler is missing. The doors fit ok, and there is a gap on top that is not level for the convertible top but he thinks we can shim it and says all of the body issues this can all be addressed when the vehicle is painted.

11. The hood is not original and is a big block hood that can be replaced with a small block hood to fit the original.

12. Recommendations are to replace door handles, new hoses, check wheel bearings and universals, replace brake lines, flush the system and it is good to go for now to drive and down the road slowly but surely replace the parts that are not original.

All in all, he thinks I'm getting a good deal for the money and should proceed. I am doing so. Will post photos of progress as I go.

Thanks again, guys

tokim

Good for you, congratulations!

mchar

I second congratulations. Your money, your car.
Don't disappear! We are all curious and need more PICS!

20mercury

I agree, This is a good 68 you can drive and have fun with at a pretty decent price.

Thanks for the followup report.

And if you ever decide to fully restore, you have the basic inputs to do it.

IMHO, I would drive it for a year and then decide if you want to spend coins to get it 100% original. You might decide to just take care of the basics and enjoy it. Either choice is ok and do what makes you happy.

briankeery

Congrats, a lot of people would have ran away, but you got a great deal on a good driver. Enjoy. Not everyone needs to have an NCRS trailer queen.

Ret.Horsecop13

I agree have fun with it!

rmendoza

I agree, drive it for a year and decide what you want to spend money on. If it's safe to drive just enjoy it for a while. Two things to remember about the NCRS guy who looked at your car. The are all about saving old corvettes and I can say that because I'm a member. Did you tell you what C series and year he had? $14,900 isn't a lot to spend for a starter or project car, but depending on the level that you want to take it to, you could double or triple or..... that amount.

I recommend you take that list and price it out, while you're driving and enjoying it. You are going to be surprised how fast that number grows. Also keep your eye on the value of the top level equilivant '68, so you know when you are past the point of return. You can certainly continure spending money on it, but don't expect to get that back.

Remember I have a '68 numbers matching L-79, 4spd close ration and if you get to a point that you need a picture of an area, I'd be glad to take and send.

It's not a '68 but an '82 Collector Edition and I just picked up for $13,000

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...ion-40262.html

Good luck and don't forget the pictures if you need them.

God Bless,
rick

staplehead

whst about the engine suffix and originality

Easy Mike

Not all NCRS cars are trailer queens.

TLSVette

Car arrived today, has some brake issues and needs a bit of work here and there, I have it in the shop to get a new battery and check on the brakes and suspension, wearables, etc. Will post photos of my own when I get the chance. Pretty excited!

ryanmh

And you should be! For the price, you got a decent deal. $10k to $15k is as cheap as it gets for a chrome bumper convertible that moves under its own power and hasn't been butchered. I bought mine last year in even less original condition, and am still thrilled with it.

You've just got to ask yourself whether it matters all that much to you personally whether it has a date-correct alternator, starter, transmission, and so forth. Did you buy the car to drive, or to parade around to shows and be judged? All the nay-sayers like to say you'll have to spend a fortune "making it right". Well, none of that makes it drive any better. And for now, it sounds like you wanted a convertible Corvette to drive around in since the bike had to be parked.

I like to think this car has a better hood than stock, better wheels than stock, better radio than stock, and a better paint color than stock. Can't beat that.

TLSVette

Mechanic said the brake lines are contaminated and need to be flushed. I told him I wanted to buy new lines instead and replace it all. Cost was $2k for parts and labor without the metal lines. Do you guys have a good idea where I can buy the parts, both rubber and metal?