Please help - Won't start at all now
#61
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Perhaps someone like Mr Ward installed the timing chain and that is your problem.....if I were you, I would check it out like I said...Of the 3 of my cars that I have completely rebuilt the engines in...I did as I posted earlier...check with any one who really knows how to build a chevy engine...they will confirm my method.
#63
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First image is from a Chevrolet dealer corvette mechanic publication that was given to me...he is my super chevy mechanic....it is an official chevy shop manual...the second image is from David Vizard " How to rebuild you Small Block Chevy"
Perhaps someone like Mr Ward installed the timing chain and that is your problem.....if I were you, I would check it out like I said...Of the 3 of my cars that I have completely rebuilt the engines in...I did as I posted earlier...check with any one who really knows how to build a chevy engine...they will confirm my method.
Perhaps someone like Mr Ward installed the timing chain and that is your problem.....if I were you, I would check it out like I said...Of the 3 of my cars that I have completely rebuilt the engines in...I did as I posted earlier...check with any one who really knows how to build a chevy engine...they will confirm my method.
Last edited by MMJ; 01-21-2014 at 02:17 PM.
#65
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http://www.hotrodders.com/
...you should own a few good chevy/corvette repair books....this is my last post to help you...I tried to tell you what was up with your car earlier....but to no avail.
#66
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#67
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If you don't believe me......just type in "installing chevy timing chain and go to a good forum like
http://www.hotrodders.com/
...you should own a few good chevy/corvette repair books....this is my last post to help you...I tried to tell you what was up with your car earlier....but to no avail.
http://www.hotrodders.com/
...you should own a few good chevy/corvette repair books....this is my last post to help you...I tried to tell you what was up with your car earlier....but to no avail.
#68
My esteemed colleague here has misunderstood what is written in his books. For ease of assembly, it's perfectly acceptable to 'line up the dots' when installing the sprockets and chain. It is true that the #1 piston will be at TDC when the crank dot is at the top but the cam will be at top of the exhaust stroke, not compression.
To have the #1 piston at TDC with the cam at on the compression stroke, (which is required for setting the ignition rotor vs. dist. cap tower relationship) the dot must be at the top.
Misunderstanding on this topic must come up 2-3 times a month here. Just do a search on 'distributor 180* out' or similar.
#69
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Obviously your chain didn't slip 180*.
My esteemed colleague here has misunderstood what is written in his books. For ease of assembly, it's perfectly acceptable to 'line up the dots' when installing the sprockets and chain. It is true that the #1 piston will be at TDC when the crank dot is at the top but the cam will be at top of the exhaust stroke, not compression.
To have the #1 piston at TDC with the cam at on the compression stroke, (which is required for setting the ignition rotor vs. dist. cap tower relationship) the dot must be at the top.
Misunderstanding on this topic must come up 2-3 times a month here. Just do a search on 'distributor 180* out' or similar.
My esteemed colleague here has misunderstood what is written in his books. For ease of assembly, it's perfectly acceptable to 'line up the dots' when installing the sprockets and chain. It is true that the #1 piston will be at TDC when the crank dot is at the top but the cam will be at top of the exhaust stroke, not compression.
To have the #1 piston at TDC with the cam at on the compression stroke, (which is required for setting the ignition rotor vs. dist. cap tower relationship) the dot must be at the top.
Misunderstanding on this topic must come up 2-3 times a month here. Just do a search on 'distributor 180* out' or similar.
#71
Burning Brakes
Thanks for keeping us updated MMJ.
Yes, someone has replaced the timing components, with a Cloyees or similar brand double roller set, at least that gives you a chance to clean/paint the parts (Chevrolet orange engine paint).
Switching it back to standard ignition, at this point seems like a good idea.
Good luck, keep us updated.
Yes, someone has replaced the timing components, with a Cloyees or similar brand double roller set, at least that gives you a chance to clean/paint the parts (Chevrolet orange engine paint).
Switching it back to standard ignition, at this point seems like a good idea.
Good luck, keep us updated.
#72
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Well, tonight I got the timing chain cover and HB sandblasted and ready for paint. I've used this stuff called Evapo-rust before on parts that I didn't want to blast because of getting sand lodged in everywhere. I'm thinking about dropping the water pump in there and letting it soak overnight. It's not supposed to harm gaskets or any kind of metal, just kind of concerned about that outer bearing being submerged.
I appreciate all the time you guys spent explaining about the timing chain. I think I finally understand. The dots on the two sprockets can be either together or at the top of each sprocket. That has nothing to do with the distributor timing. All that does is make sure that your crank and your cam are in time. They are in time either way one way is exhaust one way is compression stroke. If the dot is at the top of the top sprocket, it means your #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. This is where it has to be if you are going to time your distributor to it. So I could of made sure the dots lined up together and my cam & crank would be in time, but if I wanted to bring the distributor timing into the mix I have to make sure the dot is on top of the top sprocket which is #1 TDC compression stroke. See, I can be taught!
I appreciate all the time you guys spent explaining about the timing chain. I think I finally understand. The dots on the two sprockets can be either together or at the top of each sprocket. That has nothing to do with the distributor timing. All that does is make sure that your crank and your cam are in time. They are in time either way one way is exhaust one way is compression stroke. If the dot is at the top of the top sprocket, it means your #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. This is where it has to be if you are going to time your distributor to it. So I could of made sure the dots lined up together and my cam & crank would be in time, but if I wanted to bring the distributor timing into the mix I have to make sure the dot is on top of the top sprocket which is #1 TDC compression stroke. See, I can be taught!
#73
Safety Car
Well, tonight I got the timing chain cover and HB sandblasted and ready for paint. I've used this stuff called Evapo-rust before on parts that I didn't want to blast because of getting sand lodged in everywhere. I'm thinking about dropping the water pump in there and letting it soak overnight. It's not supposed to harm gaskets or any kind of metal, just kind of concerned about that outer bearing being submerged.
I appreciate all the time you guys spent explaining about the timing chain. I think I finally understand. The dots on the two sprockets can be either together or at the top of each sprocket. That has nothing to do with the distributor timing. All that does is make sure that your crank and your cam are in time. They are in time either way one way is exhaust one way is compression stroke. If the dot is at the top of the top sprocket, it means your #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. This is where it has to be if you are going to time your distributor to it. So I could of made sure the dots lined up together and my cam & crank would be in time, but if I wanted to bring the distributor timing into the mix I have to make sure the dot is on top of the top sprocket which is #1 TDC compression stroke. See, I can be taught!
I appreciate all the time you guys spent explaining about the timing chain. I think I finally understand. The dots on the two sprockets can be either together or at the top of each sprocket. That has nothing to do with the distributor timing. All that does is make sure that your crank and your cam are in time. They are in time either way one way is exhaust one way is compression stroke. If the dot is at the top of the top sprocket, it means your #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. This is where it has to be if you are going to time your distributor to it. So I could of made sure the dots lined up together and my cam & crank would be in time, but if I wanted to bring the distributor timing into the mix I have to make sure the dot is on top of the top sprocket which is #1 TDC compression stroke. See, I can be taught!
Your ok with it as you posted in the photos. Lining up the dots is assembly , dist set up for number on compression stroke is Cam 12 clock ,, crank 6 clock . .
Steady Eddie your way through it I never thought you needed to pull that timing cover but at least you can clean stuff up and make her look good now.
#74
Dr. Detroit
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When you get the wires on....wherever #1 is.....make sure you rotate #1 just past the rotor...to simulate some advance.....tighten the bolt...this will get you close.....
Jebby
Jebby
#75
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Update, I had to order a new timing chain cover, and am waiting for that to get here. Once I have it painted, I'll be ready to reassemble and then get back to the original problem. Here's the parts that I have finished and ready to go back on.
#79
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Just as a reinforcing statement....
Dot to dot is #6 TDC.....easier to line up and see....from there....rotate the crank a whole turn a then you are on #1 TDC....
Keep us posted....
Jebby
Dot to dot is #6 TDC.....easier to line up and see....from there....rotate the crank a whole turn a then you are on #1 TDC....
Keep us posted....
Jebby
#80
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Thanks for checking guys, but no, I've been working on another car that I have in my shop (shop has heat). The Vette is in my garage, and as soon as it warms up some, I 'm going to get back on it. I'll post an update when that happens. Thanks!
-Mark
-Mark