2box

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...lueSea13-1.jpg
Do any of You guys uses this to power headlights, fans or accessories. I am thinking of it but I am wondering if necessary or if the clean install is worth.
Just trying to get ideas

70BBvert

I added a Painless wiring 7 circuit auxiliary fuse block to power up the electric headlight operators, electric fans, headlights, amp, etc.

Mounted it on a panel attached to the inner fender where the vacuum tank would normally be located.

Jim

2box

How is it working for You.. Any issues

70BBvert

Only one problem for me, I used the spare ignition terminal in the fuse block to trigger the relay. One late summer cruise I knocked it off with my foot some how which killed the electric fans & started to overheat. Jumped on the parkway And was able to cool it down enough to stop & figure out what was wrong Made for a little excitement. Now there are a couple of zip ties added.

I also added a 100 amp alternator, junction block that's used on later Vettes, and up-sized some wiring due to the higher loads.


A few pics I have

The mounting plate with the block & relays attached



Junction block on D/S inner fender near alternator



Fuse block etc on D/S inner fender where vaccum tank would normally be





Fan relays & fuses on P/S inner fender



Jim

doorgunner

I've "run out" of spare terminals on my OEM fuse block by installing cooling fans/etc. on my '68 project.

For safety's sake.....I'll follow the lead of other members----add another heavy-gage 12V cable from the starter + lug to a new aux. fuse block since I just upgraded to a 130 amp alternator/larger feed & charging wires (the original wires were getting a "little warm").

John 65

When I added my 2 fans I ran those fused wires directly to the starter lug also. For my electric headlight conversion, it draws power from 1 wire to the alternator. No problems.

2box

That set up is similar to what i Want to do. Say did you use a fuse or a breaker to protect You power supply? If a breaker I think that is what I see in one of You pictures, is it a good idea to do a re settable one. Do's and Don'ts if any. Thanks

70BBvert

This is the one I installed. You can down load the instructions from Summit as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70207/overview/

Included the circuit breaker that you see. Plan out everything in advance & make sure you have enough circuits. I took the feed for the new panel from the horn relay terminal and the trigger for the isolation relay from the ignition terminal on the main fuse block.

Many ways to accomplish the same end result. I just chose this way.

Jim

2box

How big should the breaker or fuse be to protect the lead wire to the fuse box if it is going to be feeding headlights and dual fans.
Thanks

70BBvert

IIRC the relay & circuit breaker are rated at 30 amp. The load side feed for the fan relay (high current) comes off of the junction block next to the radiator with a separate fuse located at the relay on the P/S fender.

Only the control circuit side of the fan relays is fed from the aux panel.

The headlight relays are wired so that the control circuit is the from the main fuse panel and the load side of the relay is from the aux fuse panel. Don't remember what the current draw is, but its easy to calculate if you measure the resistance of the headlight bulbs

Jim

2box

Did You have any problems with the gauge not reading current correctly after the install? Thanks, sorry to bother

70BBvert

Which gauge? Had no problems with the gauges, although I did change everything to Autometer C2 gauges.

Jim