Let the fun begin or what the hell have I done
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Let the fun begin or what the hell have I done
So I bought this 1973 Corvette and it was nice to start with until I didn't think it wasn't up to par.
Finding I bought 40 years worth of neglect I started buying stuff the right the wrong done by time.
New Bushings, sway bars, springs (front and rear) shocks, hoses, bearings and I forget what else.
This is what I have today.
One or two more good steam cleanings and the POR 15 goes on....I was surprised there is little rust and no holes.
I should have taken a pic of the new 375 HP 350 in a crate and rebuilt trany with shift kit.
Next is the new Interior then off to paint.
Karsten
Finding I bought 40 years worth of neglect I started buying stuff the right the wrong done by time.
New Bushings, sway bars, springs (front and rear) shocks, hoses, bearings and I forget what else.
This is what I have today.
One or two more good steam cleanings and the POR 15 goes on....I was surprised there is little rust and no holes.
I should have taken a pic of the new 375 HP 350 in a crate and rebuilt trany with shift kit.
Next is the new Interior then off to paint.
Karsten
#2
Race Director
Did you ever hear the term project creep?
You are now living it.
Good luck going foward.
You are now living it.
Good luck going foward.
#3
Burning Brakes
Your not seriously going to leave those front control arm bushings alone are you???
Just kidding. I have a project like that in my garage right now except it was the front end.
Just kidding. I have a project like that in my garage right now except it was the front end.
#4
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
Posts: 33,893
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Great project!
Whatever "Project Creep" is.......I think that I "caught it".
Whatever "Project Creep" is.......I think that I "caught it".
#5
Le Mans Master
Wow, that's a pretty nice looking 73 ya got there.
Being the whole car is coming apart, and so much of it already is, if the extra time isn't a factor, have you considered removing the body?
Either way I'm sure its going to be beautiful when finished. Good luck with it.
Being the whole car is coming apart, and so much of it already is, if the extra time isn't a factor, have you considered removing the body?
Either way I'm sure its going to be beautiful when finished. Good luck with it.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
As for taken the body off it is going to get steam cleaned a few more tine before we go there.
Karsten
#7
Melting Slicks
Beautiful 73 Corvette!
Beautiful 73 Corvette!
Make a plan, keep a log of work done when, and keep pecking away and you will get it all done. Let's face it, this likely all needed to be done anyway and you will be very happy and proud when you complete all of it.
Make a plan, keep a log of work done when, and keep pecking away and you will get it all done. Let's face it, this likely all needed to be done anyway and you will be very happy and proud when you complete all of it.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
The paint is okay. It has some bubbles, Ghost Flame which I can do without so after the mechanical stuff it goes to another shop for a complete new interior from the carpet to the head liners, dash wiring harness, new seat belts, console and I forget what else.
Then by spring I hope to be in line for paint....just need a color close to what is there that really pops.
Karsten
Then by spring I hope to be in line for paint....just need a color close to what is there that really pops.
Karsten
#11
Instructor
No !! Don't waste Your Money on POR15 that garbage will not stick to the clean Metal . It sticks for a few years over rust or sandblasted Metal only. It's OK for a Garage Queen but that's it. Use a Product called Rust Bullet , sticks to clean Metal , rusty Metal or even Paint. It's at least as tough as POR but will not peel off like POR. The only drawback is it only comes in a metallic silver color. Just topcoat it with Eastwood's Chassis Black , another fine product. And yes it can be topcoated without buying a special midcoat adhesion promoter like POR.
#12
Instructor
Here is a quick copy and paste of what I said before about POR15 before Someone comes on here and says that "I didn't prep it properly".
If Your Car is gonna be a Garage Queen POR15 will hold up just fine , and so will the stuff in a rattle can. But if You are going to drive it expecially in the rain or Snow it will NOT hold up.
I spent a considerable amount of Money along with a lot of My time coating the Frame of My then new 2002 Silverado , I followed the directions to the T , used the Marine clean , and Metalready . I even cleaned with Metalready and wire brushed everything again 2 years later and recoated with POR15.
I live in the Rustbelt and this Truck is My dayly driver . Rust is everywhere POR does not stick to anything but Hands and Cement. The coating is very tough , but once it gets a chip Water and Salt get under it and the Rust will undermine it like Powder coat on cheap lawn furniture. You can grab a loose end and literally pull the stuff off in sheets. The only thing that I would ever use this product on is to waterproof a concrete block wall .
The one product that I have had good luck with is Rust Bullet and I topcoat it with Eastwood Chassis Black as it only comes in silver. Do a google search for Rust Bullet it's amazing stuff , adheres to almost anything and can be topcoated with other paints without having to buy expensive "tie coat" like POR15. I wish that I knew about it when My Truck was new.
If Your Car is gonna be a Garage Queen POR15 will hold up just fine , and so will the stuff in a rattle can. But if You are going to drive it expecially in the rain or Snow it will NOT hold up.
I spent a considerable amount of Money along with a lot of My time coating the Frame of My then new 2002 Silverado , I followed the directions to the T , used the Marine clean , and Metalready . I even cleaned with Metalready and wire brushed everything again 2 years later and recoated with POR15.
I live in the Rustbelt and this Truck is My dayly driver . Rust is everywhere POR does not stick to anything but Hands and Cement. The coating is very tough , but once it gets a chip Water and Salt get under it and the Rust will undermine it like Powder coat on cheap lawn furniture. You can grab a loose end and literally pull the stuff off in sheets. The only thing that I would ever use this product on is to waterproof a concrete block wall .
The one product that I have had good luck with is Rust Bullet and I topcoat it with Eastwood Chassis Black as it only comes in silver. Do a google search for Rust Bullet it's amazing stuff , adheres to almost anything and can be topcoated with other paints without having to buy expensive "tie coat" like POR15. I wish that I knew about it when My Truck was new.
#13
Race Director
No !! Don't waste Your Money on POR15 that garbage will not stick to the clean Metal . It sticks for a few years over rust or sandblasted Metal only. It's OK for a Garage Queen but that's it. Use a Product called Rust Bullet , sticks to clean Metal , rusty Metal or even Paint. It's at least as tough as POR but will not peel off like POR. The only drawback is it only comes in a metallic silver color. Just topcoat it with Eastwood's Chassis Black , another fine product. And yes it can be topcoated without buying a special midcoat adhesion promoter like POR.
#14
Melting Slicks
You might look into Master Series paint and primer. I've been using it for many years. I did my rocker channels 20 years ago, still look fine.
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/
This is a two part system, a urethane primer with aluminum powder to seal the metal followed by a topcoat. I haven't tried POR-15, can't offer any comparison from personal experience.
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/
This is a two part system, a urethane primer with aluminum powder to seal the metal followed by a topcoat. I haven't tried POR-15, can't offer any comparison from personal experience.
#19
1969/1971/1976 Coupes
#20
Racer
Thread Starter