russianhomie119

Its finally time to start putting my chassis together slowly and i'm having difficulty choosing whether to use zip, ecklers, willcox or corvette central. I have heard positive comments about most of them.

Are all their parts the same quality?

Should I use whoever is cheapest?

Any issues that I should keep in mind?

My next big purchase is going to be front suspension rebuild kit (rubber), plus some other bushings/mounts and cushions

yeah...first world problem: too many choices

rafalc

My recent experience was a Chinese made shock mount from Ecklers. I have gotten 90% of my parts from Paragon and Van Steel... great quality, no issues.

russianhomie119

forgot about those, thanks

Easy Mike

ZIP is close enough to you that you could drive over to Mechanicsville.

0Willcox Corvette

Never use what is cheapest... there are some pretty junk kits... and as a warning to everyone.. STAY away from the so called reproduction ball joints!!! Junk deluxe in my book.

All the kits listed at this link contain all USA made parts. All component parts are either Moog or Federal Mogul.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...page=1&sort=4a

kjr6306

Willcox - Are the deluxe US made rubber ball joints listed have rivets or do they bolt back in? The package listed shows they come with rivets but I thought replacements are bolted back in??? I will be purchasing a kit shortly as well.

0Willcox Corvette

They come with both.. rivets or bolts so you can choose which way you want to install them.

Willcox

kjr6306

Thanks!!!

renovator

I have a question regarding the rivets as I am about to purchase the entire rebuild kit from someone myself. How do you set these rivets? can you use a vice? I saw a tool for an air hammer listed with someone but not sure how to use it, I would like to go with the rivets if not to much PITA. Thanks for your thoughts.

russianhomie119

thanks for the reply, ill give you guys a call with some more questions

kjr6306, good catch. i'll make sure to specify when I place my order

is it better to rivet them in or no difference?

russianhomie119

yeah, if I went there I wouldn't leave

68/70Vette

When I removed the factory ball joints from my 68 Corvette about 6 years ago, the original 39 year old AC Delco rubber seals were in perfect condition. (Actually the ball joints probably were also.) I replaced the ball joints from a Vette Vendor who gets excellent ratings on this forum (not Wilcox). Before I could get the car on the road, the rubber seals were disintegrating. I think it was about 3 years between installation and when I noticed the disintegration. The car was garaged and NOT driven. There is no excuse for the seals to disintegrate. Never buy suspension parts from anyone unless you know where they came from. The ball joints bought were obviously cheap junk and the rubber was even cheaper.

I think you want to get AC Delco, if you can find them, and then next Moog. Any other recommended sources? I think another clue are suspension parts still manufactured in the US. For suspension parts, if not all parts, look for the made in the US logos.

The rear ends of my 68, built to mostly stock, and the 70...built to upgraded specialty high performance non-OEM parts, are all built by a vendor that actively advertises made in the US for his parts.

0Willcox Corvette

The only reason to rivet them is if you are going NCRS... the bolts will work fine.

0Willcox Corvette

Again.. the only reason to rivet the joints in place would be if you were trying to obtain a certification. Aside from that I would bolt the joints in place.

I have a tool here that fits in a hammer gun... I have a matching die that fits over top of the rivets... when both are applied they hammer the rivets down to an almost perfectly judged original look.

However, as I stated earlier.. The so called reproduction joints are junk... They say they don't need grease and to install them as they are delivered. Well it has been my finding that they say this because they will not take grease.

I did the body off NCRS restoration on the 63 swc and all four brand new joints squeaked.... we tried to grease them and the pneumatic grease gun couldn't pump it in there.. We changed the zerks.. and still a no go.. joints squeaked.. which to me means no grease.. So we replaced all fout with the same joints sold in our USA made kit.

You can see below the frame from the 63 swc

renovator

Thanks for the info Wilcox I will probably go the bolt route, Question for you or anyone else regarding correct color of spindles, in your pic they appear to be a "steel silver or grey color", would that also be correct for a '70? I will be powder coating my A arms, springs, etc. and was not sure about the spindle color, satin black I assumed for everything but the springs and dust shields.

0Willcox Corvette

The knuckles were left natural from the factory.
a-arms were a gloss upper and lower
springs natural.

Some powder coat people have a natural finish they can apply and some will say go with clear but this turns out too glossy. What you can do is power coat as close as possible and then give it a top color coat with say "cast blast".

This is the swc coupe were almost finished with... If you are trying to do it 100 percent correct looking... you should get the judging guide from NCRS. For your year it will detail each item out.

On the 63, you'll notice the tubes are black, the drag link natural, the idler natural, clamps natural, tie rods natural....

russianhomie119

68/70Vette and Willcox thank you for your input.

russianhomie119

Willcox, I placed an order yesterday with you guys and I was happily surprised to see most of it arrive today on my birthday. (some is on back order). Quickest shipping I have ever seen!!!

Thank you guys

0Willcox Corvette

... thank you!

Jig A Low

DANG!!! you got lucky!