290HP GM Crate engine,...opinions???
#21
Safety Car
I don't think you can have your engine block remachined and buy needed parts (oversize pistons, rings, gasket set, bearings, etc. etc.) for the $2000 it costs for that crate engine. If you know someone at a machine shop that cuts you a deal and you do your own engine rebuilding, maybe you could break-even. Otherwise, don't waste your time for a '76 L-48 engine.
[Sorry, I have an L-48 engine, too; but I still think rebuilding it makes little sense when you can get a warranted, new engine for the same money. And, it's already CLEAN! ]
[Sorry, I have an L-48 engine, too; but I still think rebuilding it makes little sense when you can get a warranted, new engine for the same money. And, it's already CLEAN! ]
Complete rebuild kits can be bought for $300 - having the block machined and hot tanked 600-800 if you don't know anyone.... that leaves about a grand on the table for a few hours work at most to build the long block..... the rest of the stuff like the intake has to be done regardless... at least this way you have the numbers matching thing going for you vs a Mexican block crate engine if that sort of thing matters to you.
I myself bought a recently rebuilt short block with flat tops for 300 on craiglist and pulled it apart to check it over....found bearing and crank damage .. everything else was good. even after buying a scat crank and new bearings I was still under $600.00.... found nice dart heads for $300... If you have patience you can do a lot better for a lot less is all I'm saying.
Last edited by augiedoggy; 07-08-2013 at 10:03 AM.
#22
Drifting
I have used 2 of those engines. The 1st went in my neighbor's Chevy van, as a replacement engine. He had 4 kids to drive around. With a rebuilt trans, that was a great trouble free combo. No leaks! The 2nd went into a GMC 3/4 ton truck with all the boxes. My carpenter friend needed something to carry his tools and haul lumber, etc. Pretty dang heavy all told. The crate engine cam broke, and threw a rod through the pan within 6 months. A local Chevy dealer in Los Gatos had the truck towed and replaced the engine. 2 days later the work was done. Total cost: $0. And we installed the engine in the 1st place... Pretty cool if you ask me.
#23
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Forth Worth TX
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Your L-82 is basically a 1970 L-46 with less compression. Rebiuld the L-82 and up the compression to about 10.5/1.
Just rebuilt my all original 70 L-46, ported the heads, installed a Comp Cam XE262H-10 (a little more lift and duration over stock cam). Engine dyno - 341hp@5600, 387tq@3400.
Just rebuilt my all original 70 L-46, ported the heads, installed a Comp Cam XE262H-10 (a little more lift and duration over stock cam). Engine dyno - 341hp@5600, 387tq@3400.
Last edited by Revi; 07-08-2013 at 03:04 PM.
#24
Race Director
A better deal than the base motor? ($500+ less)
Near as I can tell, the only difference between the two is a $100 cam. Well, they do take the Goodwrench 350 sticker off for you.
Of course, you do get a warranty as mentioned by Jeff above, which is certainly not worthless.
That said, you'll end up with something between an L-48 and an L-82. Not quite as much power as an L-82, not quite as much torque as an L-48. But it has a warranty.
The two motors are rated as following:
10067353 (GW350): 260 hp, 350 tq
12499529 (GW350 + L-82 cam): 290 hp, 326 tq
I'm almost tempted to say that the GW350 would be more fun for a basic driver. I got mine moving decently with stock components, recurved distributor, long tube headers and 2.5" dual exhaust.
It does hurt a bit when you realize you're spending an extra $500 for a cam.
Near as I can tell, the only difference between the two is a $100 cam. Well, they do take the Goodwrench 350 sticker off for you.
Of course, you do get a warranty as mentioned by Jeff above, which is certainly not worthless.
That said, you'll end up with something between an L-48 and an L-82. Not quite as much power as an L-82, not quite as much torque as an L-48. But it has a warranty.
The two motors are rated as following:
10067353 (GW350): 260 hp, 350 tq
12499529 (GW350 + L-82 cam): 290 hp, 326 tq
I'm almost tempted to say that the GW350 would be more fun for a basic driver. I got mine moving decently with stock components, recurved distributor, long tube headers and 2.5" dual exhaust.
It does hurt a bit when you realize you're spending an extra $500 for a cam.
#25
Melting Slicks
Warning - Not the reply you want to hear. You will need to add an intake and hei, not a big deal (maybe $400) BUT this engine has a flat tappet cam. I didn't want to "take the chance" so opted for the base
ZZ4 at (when I bought it) $4100. It has a roller cam, and hei and an intake in that price. It also has alum intake and alum heads. It is a STRONG motor (powerwise) and sounds VG. Forget the (my .02) ZZ4 with the "fast burn" heads. It costs much more and all you will get is 30 more hp at the sake of 30 loss ft lbs of torque. When all is said and done, you will forget the price diff vs. this motor you are considering. Think about it - just sayin'
After painted with Eastwood ceramic paint
ZZ4 at (when I bought it) $4100. It has a roller cam, and hei and an intake in that price. It also has alum intake and alum heads. It is a STRONG motor (powerwise) and sounds VG. Forget the (my .02) ZZ4 with the "fast burn" heads. It costs much more and all you will get is 30 more hp at the sake of 30 loss ft lbs of torque. When all is said and done, you will forget the price diff vs. this motor you are considering. Think about it - just sayin'
After painted with Eastwood ceramic paint
Last edited by TWINRAY; 07-08-2013 at 02:20 PM.
#26
I have a 1976 Corvette that needs an engine overhaul. My stock L82 has beeing burning oil for a while and it's starting to have a bottom end tick and blow by.
I have been looking at some of the cheaper crate motors as an option. They sound almost to good to be true. At just over $2,000.00 and advertising 290hp,..I'm very interested. This is more hP than my L82 had when new.
I'm not looking for a hot rod or a race car. I just want some peppy performance, at least equal to the original L82 to cruise around with.
Below is a link to one of the engines I'm talking about. Give me your thoughts.
GM Performance 12499529 Engine Assembly Crate Engine Chevy 350 290HP 326TQ | eBay
I have been looking at some of the cheaper crate motors as an option. They sound almost to good to be true. At just over $2,000.00 and advertising 290hp,..I'm very interested. This is more hP than my L82 had when new.
I'm not looking for a hot rod or a race car. I just want some peppy performance, at least equal to the original L82 to cruise around with.
Below is a link to one of the engines I'm talking about. Give me your thoughts.
GM Performance 12499529 Engine Assembly Crate Engine Chevy 350 290HP 326TQ | eBay
The engine is a steal, IF you're looking to replace a stock 70's L48/L82 with an equivalent zero mile engine.
I don't think I'd bother putting one in a Vette that was looking to get more performance than a stock one. Why? Cast pistons, cast rods, cast crank, 76cc "882 style" heads. If you're looking to make 450hp, all that has to go, and you may as well have just bought a 383 stroker for the price of the engine + upgrades.
#27
Burning Brakes
I've got the 330hp crate and deeply regret not buying the ZZ4. It's not bad but it doesn't push you back in the seat either. (Or my ignition/carburation is completely messed up by the incompetent people 'over here'. Can't imagine how I would feel with the 290hp...
Nick
Nick
#28
Le Mans Master
You can get a ZZ4 base from pace performance for a little over $3500 shipped to your door. It comes stripped, but just swap over your intake, flywheel, water pump etc. This is what I'm doing when the time comes
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html
Last edited by qwank; 07-08-2013 at 07:15 PM.
#30
I agree with RJOYAL.
Cheaper to buy the goodwrench for 14-1500 bucks and add your own cam.
I did that. Local machine shop quoted me about $300 to mill the heads for more compression, backcut valves and add z28 springs. I haven't installed it yet though. Still. considering new heads.
Cheaper to buy the goodwrench for 14-1500 bucks and add your own cam.
I did that. Local machine shop quoted me about $300 to mill the heads for more compression, backcut valves and add z28 springs. I haven't installed it yet though. Still. considering new heads.
#31
I agree with RJOYAL.
Cheaper to buy the goodwrench for 14-1500 bucks and add your own cam.
I did that. Local machine shop quoted me about $300 to mill the heads for more compression, backcut valves and add z28 springs. I haven't installed it yet though. Still. considering new heads.
Cheaper to buy the goodwrench for 14-1500 bucks and add your own cam.
I did that. Local machine shop quoted me about $300 to mill the heads for more compression, backcut valves and add z28 springs. I haven't installed it yet though. Still. considering new heads.
If the OP is ABSOLUTELY SURE.......stock performance is gonna be enough now and for the long term.......the $1,400 crate motor with a warranty and all new pieces is awfully tough to beat.
How-ever.....if upgrading a pretty car like any C3 to modern performance expecatations is more desirable the cost to up grate a motor with junk heads, a weak cam and cast pistons probably isn't even close to the best option.
As always I suppose you need to know your goal for certain and there is one more thought before anyone gets too carried away with the final cost in dollar terms. This is about time too.
Anyone looking to install a new motor in a C3 might want to look at how very long this new engine is likely to last and be in the car. With the modest use most now see (Does anyone use a C3 as a daily driver anymore)......10-20 years is pretty common.
Sooooo........I guess what you have to ask is this, "Are you sure the modest priced engine will still seem like a "deal" over time if in the back of your head you're thinking I sure wish I'd bought the better motor with more power and potential?"........ I know what my answer was.
#32
I can imagine that going the bargain route may seem like the way to go initially but I bet that sure fades fast when the reality of a weak performer hits you. Especially after spending both the money and the time on an install you really don't want to do more than once every ten years.
#33
Melting Slicks
.......This is the post NO-ONE wants to find themselves writing later.
I can imagine that going the bargain route may seem like the way to go initially but I bet that sure fades fast when the reality of a weak performer hits you. Especially after spending both the money and the time on an install you really don't want to do more than once every ten years.
I can imagine that going the bargain route may seem like the way to go initially but I bet that sure fades fast when the reality of a weak performer hits you. Especially after spending both the money and the time on an install you really don't want to do more than once every ten years.
#34
Racer
if you were coming down from BB to replace it with the SB 290hp crate engine, you'll be disappointed. But since you are replacing an old SB to with the new crate motor, it will be a upgrade for you and you'll like it.
#35
Safety Car
Why hasn't anybody recommended the YearOne crate engine anymore? I use to hear great things about them back when I first came to this forum.
https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/1953...-crate-engines
Great bang for the buck, and more power than that GM crate engine.
https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/1953...-crate-engines
Great bang for the buck, and more power than that GM crate engine.
#36
Sure.....I imagine you're exactly right about how this engine compares to his original but I think there is another comparison to consider too.
Today vs 30 plus years ago.
In the late 70s and early 80s an L82 was a reasonably strong street performer.
As the expression goes, "you won't miss what you never had!"
Trouble is we all own and drive other cars and trucks. Today an L82 powered Corevtte or any motor that is similar.......isn't gonna feel like an "upgrade" to anything.
An L82 powered C3 often runs with LESS "get up and GO" than most passenger cars and pick up trucks on the road today.
Swapping out an engine is the time to fix that sad fact!
#37
Race Director
I bought the 260 hp version for my dirt track car because it fit the rules - the cam is too big in the 290hp one.
The engine is a steal, IF you're looking to replace a stock 70's L48/L82 with an equivalent zero mile engine.
I don't think I'd bother putting one in a Vette that was looking to get more performance than a stock one. Why? Cast pistons, cast rods, cast crank, 76cc "882 style" heads. If you're looking to make 450hp, all that has to go, and you may as well have just bought a 383 stroker for the price of the engine + upgrades.
The engine is a steal, IF you're looking to replace a stock 70's L48/L82 with an equivalent zero mile engine.
I don't think I'd bother putting one in a Vette that was looking to get more performance than a stock one. Why? Cast pistons, cast rods, cast crank, 76cc "882 style" heads. If you're looking to make 450hp, all that has to go, and you may as well have just bought a 383 stroker for the price of the engine + upgrades.
...I put this 260hp 350ci crate motor in my old '75 L-82 coupe about 8yrs ago. Had over 21,000 trouble free miles on it too. When I bought it appx 8yrs ago, I got it at a GM Crate Motor Sale for $1287-and this was even at a Pontiac Dealership.
...I used my intake, water pump, fuel pump, carb, starter, distributor, alt, exhaust manifolds, etc. Everything fit like a glove. It was also at this time I changed my '75 over to a four speed car. It also had stainless '74 style true dual exhaust. Kept the original motor on an engine dolley and gave it to the buyer. For a 3.36 rear gear, 4spd, true dual exhaust '75 Corvette with a 260hp motor, I was more than happy. Car ran strong and I put over 21,000mi on it with this motor. This same motor I bought also at the time had a 5yr/50K mile warranty. At that time it was also called a '73-'85 Direct Replacement 350ci.
#38
OK,...update on engine thoughts.
I went by a very reputable performance engine builder today. Here is what he told me;
A complete rebuild;
Tear down.
Vat, clean and repaint bloack.
Rebore block .30 over and lightly resurface.
Turn crank to clean up.
Magna flux heads and lightly resurface, ( as long as they check out OK).
New valve guides and seats.
New intake and exhaust valves.
New cam bearings.
New forged pistons.
New pink rods.
New rod bearings.
New main bearings.
New oil pump.
Re-use existing cam and heads as long as they check out to be in good condition, and my existing intake, carb and water pump.
New gaskets and fluids.
24 month / 24,000 mile warranty.
Parts & Labor- $3,500.00
He told me they recommend turning the flywheel, new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing while it's down. He also suggested flushing and rodding the radiator while it's out.
Total including these additions will be $4,800.00 to $5,000.00.
We also discussed the crate motor route. He said the labor to R&R the crate motor would be $1,500.00 + cost of engine + the other items he suggested.
Lastly,...he said I coud upgrade the heads and cam at my option,...and my dollar. No additional labor with the stock L82 rebuid, some labor cost to change heads and cam on crate motor.
I went by a very reputable performance engine builder today. Here is what he told me;
A complete rebuild;
Tear down.
Vat, clean and repaint bloack.
Rebore block .30 over and lightly resurface.
Turn crank to clean up.
Magna flux heads and lightly resurface, ( as long as they check out OK).
New valve guides and seats.
New intake and exhaust valves.
New cam bearings.
New forged pistons.
New pink rods.
New rod bearings.
New main bearings.
New oil pump.
Re-use existing cam and heads as long as they check out to be in good condition, and my existing intake, carb and water pump.
New gaskets and fluids.
24 month / 24,000 mile warranty.
Parts & Labor- $3,500.00
He told me they recommend turning the flywheel, new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing while it's down. He also suggested flushing and rodding the radiator while it's out.
Total including these additions will be $4,800.00 to $5,000.00.
We also discussed the crate motor route. He said the labor to R&R the crate motor would be $1,500.00 + cost of engine + the other items he suggested.
Lastly,...he said I coud upgrade the heads and cam at my option,...and my dollar. No additional labor with the stock L82 rebuid, some labor cost to change heads and cam on crate motor.
Last edited by C3 Nut; 07-09-2013 at 09:44 PM.
#39
Burning Brakes
Buy the crate motor, Better casting materials by far are used today than 30 years ago. Rebuilding the OEM motor is way to much money. Just a side note, we regulary replace many Marine blocks with current ZZ4 rotating assy's. I know this is a differant motor, but you will be happy with the 290 version also. Al
#40
Burning Brakes
How much value would maintaining the original L82 engine add to this model down the road?
Sounds like the money will be close to the same weather he goes rebuild or crate. To me it would boil down to do I want a new engine or a rebuilt original. The OP asked about the 290hp crate motor. That will not be much difference in power over the original L82 at 210 "net" HO,...and the 210 was with smog pump, emissions, cat converter and single exhaust .
Unless he upgrades to a ZZ 4 or similar, which would cost a LOT more money, I think he may be better with the rebuild.
Sounds like the money will be close to the same weather he goes rebuild or crate. To me it would boil down to do I want a new engine or a rebuilt original. The OP asked about the 290hp crate motor. That will not be much difference in power over the original L82 at 210 "net" HO,...and the 210 was with smog pump, emissions, cat converter and single exhaust .
Unless he upgrades to a ZZ 4 or similar, which would cost a LOT more money, I think he may be better with the rebuild.