C3 78 Paint adventure
#101
Melting Slicks
Me too, makes me sick wen I think about it......The last time we pulled the motor the rented lift would not get it over the nose of the vett, we had to use a floor jack to drop it to the floor to clear......then we could not go straight in from the front,, but rather from the side. PNA
#102
Pro
Thread Starter
#103
Melting Slicks
That sucks, I hate doing things twice! Just did that on my cam and head swap. Had to pull the timing cover twice since my dampener didn't seem to want to fit with the new double roller setup
#104
Pro
Thread Starter
Once I had the new shop crane put together, I rolled it up to the car and found it was short of the center where I needed to be...Started looking for an extension, came across a CF post on the subject, I found a 48" 2" x 2" x 1/8" steel box tube and I am making the extension I need.. I'll post a photo.
#105
Melting Slicks
Once I had the new shop crane put together, I rolled it up to the car and found it was short of the center where I needed to be...Started looking for an extension, came across a CF post on the subject, I found a 48" 2" x 2" x 1/8" steel box tube and I am making the extension I need.. I'll post a photo.
#106
Pro
Thread Starter
#107
Pro
Thread Starter
#108
Pro
Thread Starter
When I insert the extension 48" into the black boom so the ends match and then bolt at the 1 ton or 3/4 ton hole I can reach center, this shows the bolt at 3/4 ton
And have room next to the fender, The 1 ton position would be a little closer to the fender.
And have room next to the fender, The 1 ton position would be a little closer to the fender.
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 08-01-2014 at 02:35 PM.
#110
Burning Brakes
Jack
#112
Pro
Thread Starter
Pulled the motor today, separated the block from the bell, came out easy, up and over the fender.
I to was concerned with the load being over the end of the legs and tilting. I used the 3/4 ton position, this kept me back from the end and placed the back end of the two booms behind the pivot point there by re-enforcing the entire boom.
However You could extend the legs like the boom to get that extra length needed to pull those longer reaches. just be mindful of the load your working with.
I to was concerned with the load being over the end of the legs and tilting. I used the 3/4 ton position, this kept me back from the end and placed the back end of the two booms behind the pivot point there by re-enforcing the entire boom.
However You could extend the legs like the boom to get that extra length needed to pull those longer reaches. just be mindful of the load your working with.
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 08-02-2014 at 04:14 PM.
#113
Pro
Thread Starter
once the motor was up and out we pulled the pan, I wanted to see what was there. Be sides shavings, normal, there was a broken metal particle and at the oil pump there is what appears to be a collar with a pin that slides up and down, the shaft and spins around, if it is a collar and is to be fixed to the oil pump shaft then this is what was knocking.
#115
Pro
Thread Starter
8/11/14 Update: got a call from the builder he says the cam went flat, I called the COMP CAMS warranty office and they tell me they will cover cams and lifters if theirs'... now we wait some more.....
#116
Drifting
That truly sucks big time. But from the description you gave of the start up procedure that you followed I suspected that a wiped cam is what happened. When you get your motor back. I would suggest that you really get your start up procedure down pat in order to avoid it from happening again. Make sure you prime the engine with a proper oil priming tool. Make sur you are using the right oil. And once she fires you take her immediately to 2000-2200. Set your timing and just let her run for half hour. Keep your eye on engine temps and for the lsat ten minutes or so give it and occasional bump on the throttle up to 3000 -3400. After the thirty minutes shut her down drain the oil and change the filter. Then you should be done. But ago make sure all is well. Remove the valve covers and and start the engine (might be a little messy) and observe the push rods. If the are all spinning then you are good. P.S. Also make sure that if you are running dual springs you may have to remove them during the break in cycle.
Last edited by persuader; 08-11-2014 at 06:00 PM.
#117
Melting Slicks
I'll add one thing to what Persuader said, when I start a motor for break in (and I've only done three so I'm far from a seasoned expert), I let the hose run in the radiator on a low setting to ensure that there's a supply of cool water, I also put a fan on the radiator. Never had a problem