C3 General General C3 Corvette Discussion not covered in Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

C3 78 Paint adventure

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-28-2014, 08:53 AM
  #101  
AirborneSilva
Melting Slicks
 
AirborneSilva's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2012
Location: Titusville Florida
Posts: 3,487
Received 81 Likes on 68 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Douglas Brown
Me too, makes me sick wen I think about it......The last time we pulled the motor the rented lift would not get it over the nose of the vett, we had to use a floor jack to drop it to the floor to clear......then we could not go straight in from the front,, but rather from the side. PNA
I removed mine from the passenger side. Had to take the tire off then lower the floor jack, was tight but that's how we pulled and installed my motor.
Old 07-29-2014, 07:33 PM
  #102  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Went to St George , Ut. to get a shop crane, hoist..to pull the motor and a load leveler,
from Harbor Freight. on sale. Maybe next week I can get this thing out and back to the builder..in UT.


Last edited by Douglas Brown; 07-29-2014 at 07:37 PM.
Old 07-30-2014, 10:51 AM
  #103  
AirborneSilva
Melting Slicks
 
AirborneSilva's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2012
Location: Titusville Florida
Posts: 3,487
Received 81 Likes on 68 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Douglas Brown
Went to St George , Ut. to get a shop crane, hoist..to pull the motor and a load leveler,
from Harbor Freight. on sale. Maybe next week I can get this thing out and back to the builder..in UT.

That sucks, I hate doing things twice! Just did that on my cam and head swap. Had to pull the timing cover twice since my dampener didn't seem to want to fit with the new double roller setup
Old 07-31-2014, 11:14 PM
  #104  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Once I had the new shop crane put together, I rolled it up to the car and found it was short of the center where I needed to be...Started looking for an extension, came across a CF post on the subject, I found a 48" 2" x 2" x 1/8" steel box tube and I am making the extension I need.. I'll post a photo.
Old 08-01-2014, 08:39 AM
  #105  
AirborneSilva
Melting Slicks
 
AirborneSilva's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2012
Location: Titusville Florida
Posts: 3,487
Received 81 Likes on 68 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Douglas Brown
Once I had the new shop crane put together, I rolled it up to the car and found it was short of the center where I needed to be...Started looking for an extension, came across a CF post on the subject, I found a 48" 2" x 2" x 1/8" steel box tube and I am making the extension I need.. I'll post a photo.
I'd be interested in seeing that
Old 08-01-2014, 02:18 PM
  #106  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

This is the shop lift I got from Harbor Freight 1 Ton. Sitting on the leg extension is the Black boom that came with t he lift and the 48" 2"x2"x1/8" extension I added.
Old 08-01-2014, 02:22 PM
  #107  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

With the black boom (came w/lift) inserted and bolted at the 14 ton hole it's reach is 46" and it dose not come to center of the motor.



And it leaves no room next to the fender

Old 08-01-2014, 02:27 PM
  #108  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

When I insert the extension 48" into the black boom so the ends match and then bolt at the 1 ton or 3/4 ton hole I can reach center, this shows the bolt at 3/4 ton



And have room next to the fender, The 1 ton position would be a little closer to the fender.


Last edited by Douglas Brown; 08-01-2014 at 02:35 PM.
Old 08-01-2014, 02:30 PM
  #109  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

To give an idea of where the end of the boom is in relation to the wheels I hung a tape to show position.

Old 08-01-2014, 02:32 PM
  #110  
Jack605
Burning Brakes
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Jack605's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2013
Location: Schaumburg IL
Posts: 985
Received 189 Likes on 118 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Douglas Brown
When I insert the extension 48" into the black boom and bolt at the 1 ton or 3/4 ton hole I can reach center, this shows the bolt at 3/4 ton



And have room next to the fender

Be careful with that setup you are probably overloading the boom with the distance you are reaching. also make sure your still above the legs and not past the end of the legs or the lift will tilt over.

Jack
Old 08-01-2014, 02:54 PM
  #111  
AirborneSilva
Melting Slicks
 
AirborneSilva's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2012
Location: Titusville Florida
Posts: 3,487
Received 81 Likes on 68 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Jack605
Be careful with that setup you are probably overloading the boom with the distance you are reaching. also make sure your still above the legs and not past the end of the legs or the lift will tilt over.

Jack
Good points!
Old 08-01-2014, 07:50 PM
  #112  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
Good points!
Pulled the motor today, separated the block from the bell, came out easy, up and over the fender.
I to was concerned with the load being over the end of the legs and tilting. I used the 3/4 ton position, this kept me back from the end and placed the back end of the two booms behind the pivot point there by re-enforcing the entire boom.
However You could extend the legs like the boom to get that extra length needed to pull those longer reaches. just be mindful of the load your working with.

Last edited by Douglas Brown; 08-02-2014 at 04:14 PM.
Old 08-01-2014, 08:03 PM
  #113  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

once the motor was up and out we pulled the pan, I wanted to see what was there. Be sides shavings, normal, there was a broken metal particle and at the oil pump there is what appears to be a collar with a pin that slides up and down, the shaft and spins around, if it is a collar and is to be fixed to the oil pump shaft then this is what was knocking.
Old 08-02-2014, 04:16 PM
  #114  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

I had stripped the motor down before pulling it, making as light as possible.
Old 08-11-2014, 05:10 PM
  #115  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

8/11/14 Update: got a call from the builder he says the cam went flat, I called the COMP CAMS warranty office and they tell me they will cover cams and lifters if theirs'... now we wait some more.....
Old 08-11-2014, 05:46 PM
  #116  
persuader
Drifting
 
persuader's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2013
Location: Easton Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,453
Received 88 Likes on 51 Posts

Default

That truly sucks big time. But from the description you gave of the start up procedure that you followed I suspected that a wiped cam is what happened. When you get your motor back. I would suggest that you really get your start up procedure down pat in order to avoid it from happening again. Make sure you prime the engine with a proper oil priming tool. Make sur you are using the right oil. And once she fires you take her immediately to 2000-2200. Set your timing and just let her run for half hour. Keep your eye on engine temps and for the lsat ten minutes or so give it and occasional bump on the throttle up to 3000 -3400. After the thirty minutes shut her down drain the oil and change the filter. Then you should be done. But ago make sure all is well. Remove the valve covers and and start the engine (might be a little messy) and observe the push rods. If the are all spinning then you are good. P.S. Also make sure that if you are running dual springs you may have to remove them during the break in cycle.

Last edited by persuader; 08-11-2014 at 06:00 PM.
Old 08-11-2014, 06:53 PM
  #117  
AirborneSilva
Melting Slicks
 
AirborneSilva's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2012
Location: Titusville Florida
Posts: 3,487
Received 81 Likes on 68 Posts

Default

I'll add one thing to what Persuader said, when I start a motor for break in (and I've only done three so I'm far from a seasoned expert), I let the hose run in the radiator on a low setting to ensure that there's a supply of cool water, I also put a fan on the radiator. Never had a problem

Get notified of new replies

To C3 78 Paint adventure

Old 08-11-2014, 07:40 PM
  #118  
Douglas Brown
Pro
Thread Starter
 
Douglas Brown's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Dayton Nevada
Posts: 607
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

All good advice. Thanks
Old 08-11-2014, 07:51 PM
  #119  
Brandons72vette
Le Mans Master
 
Brandons72vette's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2012
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 6,197
Received 58 Likes on 44 Posts

Default

Looks great! The XKE also looks great! Any pictures of it not under cover?
Old 08-11-2014, 07:52 PM
  #120  
persuader
Drifting
 
persuader's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2013
Location: Easton Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,453
Received 88 Likes on 51 Posts

Default

I was curious of that too. How about giving us all a look?


Quick Reply: C3 78 Paint adventure



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:19 AM.