Jackogr

I've been trying to source the power windows issue as it seems since both don't work, perhaps it's a centralized issue vs. both switches going bad.

I've done searches/research and come to understand the PW relay (under center console) is powered through the guages fuse. None of gauges work either, so I feel like i'm onto something, right?

My question--where to start...I've looked at all the fuses and they appear good (as far as I can tell--the metal piece is whole). So, that leaves me with either a bad Power Window Relay or perhaps the 30 amp circut breaker in the fuse block.

Then again, it's a wiring mess so maybe it's a matter of mating a wire that's pulled away. Or, the switches....you see where i'm going.

Where to start indeed...do I buy a new 30 Circuit breaker to start? Change the fuses even though they look whole? I can see gauges fuse, but which fuse is for power windows?

A photo for reference--is something supposed to be plugged into the connector coming straight at the lens (third insert down on the block)? Could it be that simple?


Relay:


no idea what this is;


Thanks in advance for any advice!

MelWff

Looks to me like most of your fuse contacts are highly corroded. I would start by disconnecting the battery and then pull each fuse one by one and clean the contacts and check the fuses with an ohm meter. Same goes for the circuit breaker. If you are referring to the empty IGN. position that is normal.

Jackogr

Good advice; I took to it good with steel wool and a brush and got all the corrosion off. Replaced everything as it was and I'm afraid still nothing on gauges or windows.

You can see in my photo that the 30amp/12v breaker is in the third slot down and the Blue insert into the block is in second (one up from Ign). My limited Google research shows a 77 should have the breaker in the top left spot and that second insert (blue tip) into the IGN spot.

It's possible the last owner screwed messed it all up. I did try the breaker in the top spot and still nothing, but i didn't remove the blue and put it in IGN. Perhaps I'll try that.

Can anyone confirm the proper configuration for this block? Is it breaker at the top left, or where it is currently? Thanks!

Easy Mike

Possibly not. The pigtail might be used as a connector for other options.

Turn signal or alarm horn flasher. Power windows may not have a separate fuse; only a power tap in the fuse block.

Do you have the 77 assembly instruction manual (AIM)? The AIM shows all of these connections and what goes where. AIMs are handy to have around.

Jackogr

No AIM here, I'm afraid. Recommend a source? In the interim, anyone have a 77 AIM that might point me in the right direction? I'd love to get these windows working again!

Easy Mike

All the vendors sell AIMs. Pick your favorite vendor and order one.

bruiser

I would start with the guages fuse. Make sure you power on both sides of the fuse.

Jackogr

I'm a novice, but.I did end up replacing all fuses just in case...no luck. When you say power on both sides do you mean make sure both sides are seated? Or is there a special method with these glass fuses?

brent319

If you have a volt meter or test light, check both sides of the fuse by finding a good ground and then touch the other lead to one side of the fuse clip while the ignition is on. Then touch the other. You should have power on both sides. If you have neither then the power is not making it that far. If you have it one one side only , then the power is making it to the fuse, but not to the other side. If you have power on both sides then the problem is down stream.

Jackogr

Great counsel Brent. I'll try and chase it down. Thanks all