caskiguy

Nice rack !

CraigH

So i know its an issue that causes very robust views but as i said before I am keeping the rack but I am lowering it.

Vette with stock rack supports



My test rack support is cut down to 2cm. I tried various lengths but I feel this gives the look I am after



Changes the look of the rack.











is it enough to change the views of people...Probably not but I think that subtle change makes a significant difference in the look.

Now to cut down the other 5 supports and get back on to preparing the rear for paint.

Alan 71

Hi Craig,
I think that might be an ORIGINAL idea!
I don't think I've seen or heard of anyone else doing it!!!
Well Done!
Regards,
Alan

caskiguy

I agree with Alan. Nice work Craig.

PainfullySlow

Nice work Craig. I am in the ' no rack' camp personally but your modification definitely makes it look like a much more attractive option in my book. Well done!

riverracer au

now people will come up to you and say "Nice Rack"

i too have thought that they sit up too high, but would never have thought about lowering it.

i carry my tops on mine, so need to have the room for the brackets still.

BLUE1972

I also have the rack on my 72, I've used it a few times to carry the tent.

DUB

I wish that were true but the cutting of the stands for the luggage rack has already been done. A few show cars I did for people had it done to them back in the mid/late 1980's. Any 'little' thing to make it different and bring attention to it.

Actually how it came about at my shop was one night the owner was at the shop when we were assembling it and the new luggage rack was in so I set it down on the rear body and he liked how it looked with no stands at all.

Then out came the cut off wheel and the cutting of the old stands began until the height was something he liked. Once it was done on the first Corvette and people saw it...then others wanted it due to the sleeker/cleaner look.

DUB

CraigH

Yes most things people put up as new seem to be a revisit or a twist on something done before.

Anyway its new to me and looks a lot nicer to my eye :-)

caskiguy

Well, now I'm going to have to cut mine down after you made it look pretty neat

wabco40

Looks a lot better Craig

Probably just as well your leaving it on. Filling the holes so they will never eventually show through is not going to be an easy task, if it's possible at all.

DUB

And ultimately...that is all that matters.

DUB

CraigH

Now i need some advice please

I had a number of spider cracks around the corners of the rear roof hoop.

Marked them all out then started to sand





Now after sanding off the passenger side I found a thin layer of VPA over the original paint in some areas.

The rest of the car has been fairly good with very little original paint anywhere under the later finish.

That is now mostly sanded off. In fact I was able to get a razor blade under it get it off.

I still have a bit more original paint towards the center to get off.





So for the identified cracks i can V it out and glass it up but i cant do anything to the back of them....

But what about the seam between the two panels. ??

Should I grind it out and put FiberTech in it or glass it together ?

Also the entire underside of the top edge looks and feels rough and will not sand completely smooth.

Should i glass over it all or just put a layer of FiberTech after I have it all back to glass

Remember i cant get VPA.

wabco40

For the underside of the halo I would use a polyester body filler, it's not really a critical area.
If you want to use VPA, I've got some left in a tin you can have. Getting it to you might be a drama as it cannot be sent in the mail.

CraigH

Thanks for the offer Brad. Logistics could be a problem.

Strangely I have had Evercoat Rage delivered by Australia Post.

Possibly its just an international issue.

I was concerned about stopping any future stress cracks in the top edge.

I may grind out the vertical panel joins and then glass them up and run a strip of new glass along the entire top edge.

Just does not look like the best glass condition at present.

Will have to wait till i get all the old filler and paint off first.

Hate for more cracks to come in future.

Is there any issue with glassing up a panel join rather than using something like VPA ?

wabco40

The panel join on the inside, top of the halo, just taper out the edges and glass and resin. Finish off with a bit of filler if need be.

Craig, pm me your address and I will get some VPA in the mail.

Alan 71

Hi Craig,
The fellow that painted my car felt that the 'joint' between the sail panel and the halo filler was secure so only dealt with it 'cosmetically'.... smoothed the transition between the 2 parts.

If you feel that's true on your car too perhaps you don't need to do more than some cosmetic work at the area?

Regards,
Alan

Primoz

If you watched Wheeler dealers episode in which they did a 63 vette they used this:
http://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/produc...nforced-filler

DUB

You wrote 'Fiber tech' and I tried to search for it can did not find anything about it...so I can not comment on it unless I know who makes it. I know you have used it and seem to be happy with the results it gives you...so it more than likely can be used in case 'wabco40' can not get you the VPA that he has.

Knowing that your car is made out of the early form of SMC. The VPA can be used to do filling but it is NOT for actual crack repair.

So...depending if you go in and actually verify that the SMC is cracked.,..and it is not previously applied or sprayed on products. Then it is a toss up. Grind it and apply mat and resin....or if the Fiber Tech can be used for SMC crack repair...use it.

Now as for the seams in the halo area...just bevel it when you grind it and it can be filled with the VPA. And if you cannot get the VPA...I guess use your Fiber Tech. No need in laminating up that seam.

Keep in mind that the area on your upper body wherre these cracks are....makes me a bit suspicious. Knowing that that panel really can not flex or bend. I am betting that it is not structural. So if you stop and think about it...the cracks that go around the edge where it curves towards your rear back glass. That panel really can not bend or flex...So with it being rigid...assuming it is still all bonded correctly like the factory designed. I seriously doubt that they would come back due to this area....like I wrote...really does no flex and move.

Sp much depends on actually what you find when you go though the layers of what I see that has been applied in that area of your roof panel area.

DUB

CraigH

Thanks for all the feedback.

I get what your saying DUB, the fact that it is bonded to the hoop of the birdcage means it should not move much.

The main flex would be taking the rear window in and out, especially if it is very tight.

I now have it all back to glass.

There was original paint then VPA, Sealer, Spray putty etc then the final paint.

I was able to get most of it off with a razor blade then sand the original paint away.

There is still a couple of cracks on the outer edge where it comes down towards the sails.

I will glass them up and grind out the side vertical joins and do them again.

In the center under the halo is a crack as well or possibly its a join.

The correct name is Evercoat Fiber Tech

http://www.evercoat.com/product-deta...art/100633/us/