CraigH

Where the AC lines used to run on the inner guard it had worn through the fiberglass outer layers and into the glass that then expanded when painted.

Some re work and a coat of resin should fix it up ok.

CraigH

Both sides of engine bay got first coat of satin black.

CraigH

Firewall all done.

CraigH

Next :-)

Clean up and repaint.

CraigH

Some progress.

Cleaned it all up and masked it off.





Underside of lights.

CraigH

First coat of satin black.

CraigH

I took off all the masking tonight and it looks great,

Gave the brake power booster a re-spray in gloss black.

Am away for the next couple of days now so will have to wait to give it a second coat.

CraigH

Before giving the power Booster its final spray i decided to clean up the master cylinder.

Lots of wire brush work, acid, thinners and it was ready for some paint.



I uses POR15 metal mask to give it the new cast metal look.

CraigH

Power Booster got a wet sand and a final spray coat in gloss black.

CraigH

Engine block got wire brushed, cleaned with thinners then acid the again with thinners.

Then it got its first coats of Hirsch Engine Paint











Need to wait a week then give it another coat. If you try and coat it again even after 24 hours the original coat will soften - dont ask why i know :-)

Valve covers were obviously painted in the past and are a bit too orange. I will take them off and spray them later.

I did some testing with VHT Chevy Orange but it had more red in the orange mix than I wanted. There is so much variety in Chevy orange.

CraigH

Before doing the final coat on the frame I wanted to clean up the fuel, return, vapor and trans cooler lines.

I Cleaned them with steel wool, Simple Green, thinners etc until they were back to silver again.







Considering they had paint and crud all over them this was not as hard as I had expected.

The wire wound one was the hardest.

They are now all nice back to the firewall :-)

CraigH

The final coat of frame gloss black is also done.



It can dry all week while I am away.

CraigH

Stripped the front brakes down.

They were rebuilt when I purchased the car but I want to install o-ring sealed pistons rather than the lip seals in them now.

Will get them media blasted the powder coated red to match the back ones.

CraigH

The dip stick tube, Timing marker and sway bar brackets needed stripping so I can paint them again.

CraigH

My original trans dipstick tube had lost its mount bracket so I had been searching for an original one.

Even the revised GM ones were no longer available.

Ernie from Willcox Corvette ended up giving me one from his own personal parts stash. Very nice of him.

CraigH

I refitted the automatic transmission dip stick and the vacuum line.

With the engine in place it was a little difficult but between Matt and myself we managed to finesse them into place.

New o-ring and some lube and it should all seal nicely I hope.





It sits in a better position than before so checking fluid should be easier.

Need to top the trans up as I lost a bit of fluid with the tube out.

CraigH

I mocked up the new manifold (Edelbrock 2101) and carb.

CraigH

Core Support is now trial fitted.

5 of the 6 bolts lined up ok and the lower nuts were out by 1/4"







A little bit of grinding will be needed.

CraigH

Found this info on CF

Intake 3973460 OE on 1971 L-48 C3.

Intake Manifold, Cast Iron c/n 3973460 F = 2.69”, R = 4.375”
35 degrees down in front

Intake Manifold, Weiand alum. p/n 8004 F = 3.50”, R = 4”
11 degrees down in front

Intake Manifold, Edelbrock alum p/n 2101 F = 3.50” , R = 4.60
22 degrees down in front

So its a bit under an inch higher at front and less than a 1/4" at rear.

CraigH

September 2011

I ran string line from the wiper door down to the top if the hood seal.







1/2" clearance at front of air cleaner.

Also the small block hood has a bulge in the middle that may add some more space.

As long as it clears I will be happy.