Leave survivor Paint alone or cut/buff.
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Leave survivor Paint alone or cut/buff.
Hi all... Looking for opinions please..
Have a 70 Lt-1 coupe that looks to be sporting it's original enamel donnybrook green paint..
Scuffed, few chips, stress cracks, but still shines..
Would you just use a cleaner wax and clay bar
Or wetsand and buff it.
Not wanting to hurt her value if best to leave original...
NOM, correct intake, heads, t.i. Module. Carpet, paint, interior..
Tanks ticker and POP.
Non original dust, carb, missing air pump..
Nice rust free driving car...
Thanks in advance for opinions !
Gary
Have a 70 Lt-1 coupe that looks to be sporting it's original enamel donnybrook green paint..
Scuffed, few chips, stress cracks, but still shines..
Would you just use a cleaner wax and clay bar
Or wetsand and buff it.
Not wanting to hurt her value if best to leave original...
NOM, correct intake, heads, t.i. Module. Carpet, paint, interior..
Tanks ticker and POP.
Non original dust, carb, missing air pump..
Nice rust free driving car...
Thanks in advance for opinions !
Gary
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
My apologies.. Yes lacquer , Ford I think was enamel...
The car came in from Az.. But was bought new in New Jersey...
Thanks for all the input guys... This forum is great
Gary
The car came in from Az.. But was bought new in New Jersey...
Thanks for all the input guys... This forum is great
Gary
#6
Team Owner
I think the right thing would be to do whatever makes it look better without removing any paint. That would mean no rubbing compound, no cutting (abrasive polish), and no color sanding (fine wet paper).
There is only so much paint put on originally; keep as much as possible for as long as possible.
If it were mine, I would clean it well, use claybar if it has imbedded dirt in the paint, then use a polymer polish...like Zaino or Mequiar's...instead of wax.
There is only so much paint put on originally; keep as much as possible for as long as possible.
If it were mine, I would clean it well, use claybar if it has imbedded dirt in the paint, then use a polymer polish...like Zaino or Mequiar's...instead of wax.
#9
Drifting
I used Adam's Restore polish and a lot of white terry coth rags so I could see what I was removing. Really sounds like you have a SURVIVOR level car. It's only original once. My car is a SURVIVOR and Top Flight. I get a lot of satisfaction showing the car as it is.
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
thanks guys!
the carpet is nice except for the drivers floor...
the seats are in decent shape except for one split seam in each...
replace?
or would that hurt survivor value?
the carpet is nice except for the drivers floor...
the seats are in decent shape except for one split seam in each...
replace?
or would that hurt survivor value?
#11
As far as paint is concerned, I use a high-quaility carnuba and a filling glaze (blue coral product X) either by hand or with a low speed polisher (NOT a buffer) and i get amazing results.
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi gary,
I believe ANY original part you replace has an effect on it being a Survivor or BowTie car.
A Survivor/Bowtie car will still have the worn carpet and split seat cover.
Be careful that you don't confuse the degree to which a car is as it was when it left St.Louis, and how that degree of originality translates into value.
Regards,
Alan
I believe ANY original part you replace has an effect on it being a Survivor or BowTie car.
A Survivor/Bowtie car will still have the worn carpet and split seat cover.
Be careful that you don't confuse the degree to which a car is as it was when it left St.Louis, and how that degree of originality translates into value.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 02-01-2013 at 05:43 PM.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: Paoli, IN
Posts: 5,799
Received 398 Likes
on
264 Posts
St. Jude Donor '17, '19
You can use clay bar it doesn't hurt anything. Just keep things lubricated and it will be a breeze. I agree with a polish too. A very fine polish won't do anything to the paint. Then wax over it after a day or so to help make it last.
Whatever you do, if you use a buffer machine, don't burn the paint. Be weary of edges and watch out for adding excessive pressure.
Whatever you do, if you use a buffer machine, don't burn the paint. Be weary of edges and watch out for adding excessive pressure.
#14
Team Owner
With Zaino (or other polymer polish) you don't need a buffer. That's one of the advantages over 'wax'. I can do the whole car with about 1 hour's labor. [15 minutes to put it on; wait more than 2 hours; 45 minutes to buff it out...without much work]