Overpriced or just right...
#1
Overpriced or just right...
http://www.corvetteauto.com/vehicle-...d=294&catid=43
I'm seriously considering this 69 tri with a whack of options. Asking is $49,900. Couple of concerns are obviously a top dollar asking price, lack of any documentation (protecto plate, tank sticker, bill of sale) as well as the missing smog set up as a sharp eyed Zixxxpacker noticed... I don't know the dealership selling it so I'd have to take the 8 hour drive out there to see it first..
Am I just being fussy or is this vette priced too high for a car with no pedigree/documented history?
I'm seriously considering this 69 tri with a whack of options. Asking is $49,900. Couple of concerns are obviously a top dollar asking price, lack of any documentation (protecto plate, tank sticker, bill of sale) as well as the missing smog set up as a sharp eyed Zixxxpacker noticed... I don't know the dealership selling it so I'd have to take the 8 hour drive out there to see it first..
Am I just being fussy or is this vette priced too high for a car with no pedigree/documented history?
#2
Hey...fussy is a good thing. Especially at $49k...which is not a whole bunch for a real L68 4 speed with air. Evidently it is not completely, or correctly, restored. What exactly has been rebuilt?
Missing smog pumps are very common...like almost every car.
The engine stamp pad is conspicuously blurry. Should be the sharpest picture of the bunch, unless there is a reason. Especially without documentation. Does the VIN derivative on the tranny case appear exactly the same as the engine stamp pad? The T1210LQ characters do not appear totally correct to me, like not all the same height. Then again, I am by no means an expert. Pay Al Grenning for an opinion. The broach marks are crucial to any opinion and need to be seen. Never like to see paint in the stamp.
Do not buy this car without bringing a very knowledgeable person with you. The car needs to be put on a lift and gone over with a fine tooth comb. You also need to talk to the previous owners before pulling the trigger.
Missing smog pumps are very common...like almost every car.
The engine stamp pad is conspicuously blurry. Should be the sharpest picture of the bunch, unless there is a reason. Especially without documentation. Does the VIN derivative on the tranny case appear exactly the same as the engine stamp pad? The T1210LQ characters do not appear totally correct to me, like not all the same height. Then again, I am by no means an expert. Pay Al Grenning for an opinion. The broach marks are crucial to any opinion and need to be seen. Never like to see paint in the stamp.
Do not buy this car without bringing a very knowledgeable person with you. The car needs to be put on a lift and gone over with a fine tooth comb. You also need to talk to the previous owners before pulling the trigger.
Last edited by Faster Rat; 06-25-2012 at 10:16 PM.
#3
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Dates line up- Dec 10 with Dec build date VIN and early wiper can. Trim tag date is Dec '68 as well. No info on casting date or block #.
Interior looks OK. 5600 tach looks OK. Correct design headrests. Correct radio could use some detail.
Pad isnt obviously terrible but as FR said, fuzzy pic. No idea on broach marks. Sloppy trim tag with white overspray and evidence of red or Monaco orange as a prior color?
Frame pictures aren't very good. Id want to see the other end cap of that frame rail before the rear wheel, (both)and the kickup.
Some details could stand picking at; nothing awful. Looks pretty. Again, stealing from FR's good advice, a top end price for a coupe like this needs a close inspection by a trusted eye. Could be a good car, but there has to be a deduction for no paper.
Interior looks OK. 5600 tach looks OK. Correct design headrests. Correct radio could use some detail.
Pad isnt obviously terrible but as FR said, fuzzy pic. No idea on broach marks. Sloppy trim tag with white overspray and evidence of red or Monaco orange as a prior color?
Frame pictures aren't very good. Id want to see the other end cap of that frame rail before the rear wheel, (both)and the kickup.
Some details could stand picking at; nothing awful. Looks pretty. Again, stealing from FR's good advice, a top end price for a coupe like this needs a close inspection by a trusted eye. Could be a good car, but there has to be a deduction for no paper.
Last edited by vettebuyer6369; 06-25-2012 at 10:57 PM.
#4
Team Owner
Well, we can see the exterior and interior condition...which is VERY good. But, from the ad alone, we have no knowledge of vehicle operation. For that kind of money everything should work WELL on that car. You must assess condition of drivetrain, steering, brakes, suspension, engine accessories, lighting, wipers, vacuum systems, windows, etc. before determining how much that car is actually worth.
Assuming all of that is in good operating condition (that is quite an assumption), $49K for a factory-correct, original configuration car is not out of line. But, if the car is actually a 'clone' and the car wasn't actually configured from the factory as it is today, the value of that car is more in the $35-40K range.
Appearance, alone, is not a good criterion with which to evaluate a collector car...unless you don't intend to actually USE it.
Assuming all of that is in good operating condition (that is quite an assumption), $49K for a factory-correct, original configuration car is not out of line. But, if the car is actually a 'clone' and the car wasn't actually configured from the factory as it is today, the value of that car is more in the $35-40K range.
Appearance, alone, is not a good criterion with which to evaluate a collector car...unless you don't intend to actually USE it.
#5
Team Owner
I have a problem with minor details like the trim tag, and stuff as simple as these interior screws on the console. Looks like over-sized wood screws. If you are asking that much $ it should not be tacky. And speaking of that...could of spruced up the console appearance a little also. Otherwise beautiful car
#6
Melting Slicks
For that kind of money I'd want to see as much evidence as possible which suggests the engine is original. That's a large part of what you're paying for. If you buy it and it turns out not, you've lost a lot of money. I wouldn't bet a clone would bring even $35K. Best have a pro check it out. A small investment for a car at that $$ level. Is the tank sheet there?
I'd also expect the car to be virtually new, well restored, details matter IMO.
Best of luck, hope it works out for you.
I'd also expect the car to be virtually new, well restored, details matter IMO.
Best of luck, hope it works out for you.
#9
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#10
I've been to his shop quite a few times over the last 2-3 years. He generally has nice clean cars, no rust buckets or junk.
If I were you, and I was seriously considering laying out $49K, I'd get someone VERY knowledgeable with the model year 1969 (or maybe an NCRS guy) from the area to visit the showroom with you and go over that car. But hey, that's just me....
While you're there take a look around his showroom. You might find something else you'd like.... He had a super nice '69 small block coupe that was pretty well documented this spring for $39K if I remember right. Anyway, good luck in your search!!
If I were you, and I was seriously considering laying out $49K, I'd get someone VERY knowledgeable with the model year 1969 (or maybe an NCRS guy) from the area to visit the showroom with you and go over that car. But hey, that's just me....
While you're there take a look around his showroom. You might find something else you'd like.... He had a super nice '69 small block coupe that was pretty well documented this spring for $39K if I remember right. Anyway, good luck in your search!!
#11
Melting Slicks
I have a problem with minor details like the trim tag, and stuff as simple as these interior screws on the console. Looks like over-sized wood screws. If you are asking that much $ it should not be tacky. And speaking of that...could of spruced up the console appearance a little also. Otherwise beautiful car