Scary.......1972 coupe brake calipers
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Scary.......1972 coupe brake calipers
I have had my car for a little over 5 years and the brakes have never been great. I figured 40 year old car with a leaky master. So post external repaint, new carpet and redyed the interior I installed a new master and booster from Vette Brakes and Products. Then the " while I am at it bug" got to me and I decided to paint the calipers and rebuild the rears. The front calipers look fairly new in comparison. So last night I started pulling the rear calipers off. The passenger side wasn't too bad coming off. Lots of dirt and grime. Pads weren't too bad but when they came out you could see some crusty stuff that I figured was where the seal had been leaking. Got the halves taken apart and then the seals and pistons... and OH MY GOD..... it looked as if I had pulled the caliper from a creek bed. I mean the fluid was muddy and dark and dirt all in all pistons. I will get pics of the driver's side when I pull it but really how does this happen? The fluid from the line is nice and clean so I am guessing the seals were shot and allowing dirt inside the caliper. Would that be a good guess? Anyhow, I have the total rebuild kit from VBandP.com and now I am thinking I will go ahead and pull apart the front calipers too. No freakin wonder my brakes weren't very good. So totally going through the whole system, paint the calipers, reassemble the calipers, reinstall calipers and bleed the whole system with the motive bleeder... sound good?
I guess I was just so surprised at how much dirt and grime was inside the caliper!
Thanks Sully
I guess I was just so surprised at how much dirt and grime was inside the caliper!
Thanks Sully
#2
Drifting
Yea sounds like little driving + leaky seal + plus no brake fluid changes = a big mess.
The first things I did to my car was upgrade the tires/wheels and brake system (full rebuild plus performance pads). Does not matter hopw much power your car makes if you can't stop it safely.
The first things I did to my car was upgrade the tires/wheels and brake system (full rebuild plus performance pads). Does not matter hopw much power your car makes if you can't stop it safely.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Yea sounds like little driving + leaky seal + plus no brake fluid changes = a big mess.
The first things I did to my car was upgrade the tires/wheels and brake system (full rebuild plus performance pads). Does not matter hopw much power your car makes if you can't stop it safely.
The first things I did to my car was upgrade the tires/wheels and brake system (full rebuild plus performance pads). Does not matter hopw much power your car makes if you can't stop it safely.
Sully
#4
Team Owner
I'm crossing my fingers that you have changed out ALL of the flexible brake line hoses at each caliper. From your description, I think the rear flexible lines are completely deteriorated (on the inside) and won't really pass any brake fluid to those rear units.
Looks like you get to do a full rebuild on the rear units, too. So, replace all of the old flex hoses and perform a complete purge and cleaning of all the brake lines. Leaving that murky crud in the brake lines will just contaminate any new fluid you put into them. The easiest methode to purge them would be with additional brake fluid. There are probably other fluids that can be used to clean the lines, but those fluids must then be eliminated before filling with clean brake fluid.
Looks like you get to do a full rebuild on the rear units, too. So, replace all of the old flex hoses and perform a complete purge and cleaning of all the brake lines. Leaving that murky crud in the brake lines will just contaminate any new fluid you put into them. The easiest methode to purge them would be with additional brake fluid. There are probably other fluids that can be used to clean the lines, but those fluids must then be eliminated before filling with clean brake fluid.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm crossing my fingers that you have changed out ALL of the flexible brake line hoses at each caliper. From your description, I think the rear flexible lines are completely deteriorated (on the inside) and won't really pass any brake fluid to those rear units.
Looks like you get to do a full rebuild on the rear units, too. So, replace all of the old flex hoses and perform a complete purge and cleaning of all the brake lines. Leaving that murky crud in the brake lines will just contaminate any new fluid you put into them. The easiest methode to purge them would be with additional brake fluid. There are probably other fluids that can be used to clean the lines, but those fluids must then be eliminated before filling with clean brake fluid.
Looks like you get to do a full rebuild on the rear units, too. So, replace all of the old flex hoses and perform a complete purge and cleaning of all the brake lines. Leaving that murky crud in the brake lines will just contaminate any new fluid you put into them. The easiest methode to purge them would be with additional brake fluid. There are probably other fluids that can be used to clean the lines, but those fluids must then be eliminated before filling with clean brake fluid.
Sully
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#8
Team Owner
Inspect the fluid that comes out of those brake lines when you purge them. If you see significant amounts of rust...or rusty colored fluid...you might want to reconsider using those brake lines. The original DOT 3 fluid had an affinity to absorb water. If some water had been absorbed by the fluid before it was stored for a long period, then that water could have "worked" on the inside of those lines. No way to know for sure what the internal condition of the lines are like. But, rust-colored fluid should give you pause to consider that option.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Inspect the fluid that comes out of those brake lines when you purge them. If you see significant amounts of rust...or rusty colored fluid...you might want to reconsider using those brake lines. The original DOT 3 fluid had an affinity to absorb water. If some water had been absorbed by the fluid before it was stored for a long period, then that water could have "worked" on the inside of those lines. No way to know for sure what the internal condition of the lines are like. But, rust-colored fluid should give you pause to consider that option.
Sully
#10
Team Owner
Sounds like they should be 'good to go'.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter