Mooser

I've got a 2-1/2" stainless exhaust on the car with a joint right at the auto-cross-member. The clamp is on the joint and holds it to the hanger at the rear of the trans.

I was looking to change to stainless band-clamps (not v-band) for sealing (usually end up with a small leak here, blowing nice hot air right at the floor) and to clean things up a little, but haven't really come up with a way of dealing with the hanger. Granted I haven't sat with the clamp and looked at it to come up with ideas yet either.

Anyway, I know some of you are running band clamps, has anyone found a passable solution for this area?

I'm not going to weld it and would prefer not to just wad it full of rtv
Thanks
Mooser

jcloving

Some pics would help get you some answers.

bobs77vet

yes i have sourced the part....have not bought it yet but here it is...right now i am just using two hose clamps on the two hangers (custom hangers)....just reread your post ...well these are not for sealing just hanging so maybe not what you want

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310371287680...84.m1438.l2649


http://www.ebay.com/itm/140734581657...84.m1438.l2649

Ray Y

I used a combination of flange clamps and butt to butt band clamps for quick disassembly on my 3" system. I prefer the flange clamps but you need the band clamps to get the pipes thru the crossmember. No leaks any where.

Mooser

Thanks for the pics
What is actually holding the pipes to the hanger at the crossmember (trans tail)? or are you attaching there at all?
Thanks
Mooser

Mooser

The ones I'm looking at are about twice the length


The only problem is my joint in the pipe is right at the hanger location (one exhaust u-clamp connected the pipes and held them to the hanger)

I think I've got an idea, the clamps will be here today so when I get one in my hand I'll maybe have a better idea of what can work
Mooser

mysixtynine

What about this. Same clamp u just listed.

Mooser

Nice, what/who's trans it that? (not sure about the battery box)

That's probably what I'll end up with (normal u-clamp behind the band clamp)
I was just trying to think of someway of avoiding the u-clamp.
I've got an idea there now and I'll be putting the front pipes on this weekend so we'll see if it works out
Thanks for the input
Mooser

tdawggcat

I like the chocolate chip pancake box. Is that custom made? Are you trying to keep the weight down?

mysixtynine

The u clamp is only holding the pipes to the brackert its not clamping down on the joint hard.

mysixtynine

The chocolate chip battery box does keep the cars weight down....but the original contents of the box did nothing for the weight of the driver.. even swap.

HA.. I tell you.. I haven't driven the car in so long that if I could have worked up a set of pedal and steering column I would have driven the chassis just like it is.

Mooser

Yeah I get that.

I'm just looking for something a little different. Plus I'm not sure if I have the room behind the clamp.
Picked up the band clamp today after work, I'll be putting the front pipe on to see where exactly what I've got to work with
Thanks again

So how was your experience with Keisler (as opposed to the current AP issues that have been posted)

Ray Y

Fabricated a small bracket that attaches to the frame to support the pipes. Spring loaded air craft clamps go around pipe and bracket. Since this photo was taken the ceramic cloth has been replaced by a silicone pad material and the x-pipe is un-wrapped.

Mooser

Well, here's what I ended up with. Sort of a blend of the above ideas and a couple of coffee's worth of Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Took the standard 2-1/2 overlap stainless band-clamp




Cut off the bolt area on the large (outside) side and found a stainless t-bolt clamp the right size (68-73 mm)




Fit the pipes together with a small coating off hi-temp silicone (why not)
Then slid the band clamp over the joint and under the hanger
Put the t-bolt over the hanger




Rotated everything as far inboard as possible while making sure it can't hit anything and here's the end result







Maybe not quite as tidy as I was hoping but the seal should be good and it's tucked up nicely with very little hanging down. I may loosen it off and try to rotate it a little more, might be able to hide the bolt heads from being seen from the outside but the t-bolt clamp is about as far around as it can go.

The other side is a little straighter so hopefully it goes on a little easier
Mooser

Mooser

Drivers side went together a lot smoother








Overall the more I look at it the happier I am, fairly tidy, hopefully it shouldn't leak.

Level and clamp the rear section and I can check off another task
Mooser