ramair_bryan

Man I'd love to load pics, But never understood the thread on that yet. Got the exhaust removed, And the drive shaft. I gotta get rid of those 12 point 1/4'' u-joint bolts. Took me an hour to find the socket for it. Well.....whats next is draining the fluid. Im about to get really messy. Back in a min.

ramair_bryan

I just came back from pacheco canyon road thurs before the storm. Id done it long ago on the bike, and I don't remember all those cattle guards. Only made it to the junction, then went down mines road to livermore. 580 really made me want that th200 4r bad. Any way, very cool " spirited drive". ........ Right back...I gotta go get red.

redwingvette

I installed a B&M controller for my lock-up converter. It does not lock unless I am going over 40mph and unlocks if I slow down so I do not have to worry about hitting a switch to lock/unlock the converter. Best mod I did to my 73 by far.

ramair_bryan

I know our iroc locks up in overdrive and drops 300 rpm. Acts just like a 5th gear. And youknow.......I would like the vette converter to slip when I'm in the lower gears just for performance. In the mean time, I got the e-brake cable out of the way. And the cross member out. The pan is draining, and I got it on the floor, tools, pants, sleeves.....underwear. Got some in the drain pan as well. Next is dump the pan and put it back on. Looks alot easer to get to the bell housing bolts when it's tilted down like it is. I think i crunched the dist cap when i tilted the engine down.

7T1vette

Check out the fan, too. When you tilt it down, the fan goes up into the shroud. You don't want to bend a fan blade....nasty when they get out of balance.

ramair_bryan

I was afraid to look at the fan. But I did put that on the clip board. Today I removed the converter bolts, buttoned up the pan again. But when I went to remove the kick down cable......I realized I needed to drop the pan again and unhook it from the inside. See...this is why I'm a stick guy. Buttoned it up again, removed the vacuum mod line, shifter cable brk, and housing bolts. Did I ever tell you about the time I dropped the muncie from the floor jack......right on the side of my head? I was more careful today. In fact I lifted it up alittle, and brought it all the way down just like that. Now......make the 200 4 r go in like that.

jesse10886

Ok so ive never heard of the 2004r is it like the difference between the 350th an the 400thor what is the difference b/w 200r4 an 700r4?

ylose

The gear ratios and driveshaft needed.

damoroso

Yeah, kinda like forgetting to push the clutch in when you stop. If you NEED things that automatic, I agree don't even connect it, or buy the controler. Personally I like having the option of locking it up when I want to, not when the computer thinks it should be. Usually the only time it gets locked up is if I'm cruising at highway speeds, and though it only drops 200-300 rpm, that helps the economy on a trip. On my car that brings the RPM down to around 2300 @ 80MPH. If you choose not to use it, you can buy a torque converter that isn't a lock up and save a few bucks.

7T1vette

You don't need to drop the pan to unhook the TV cable. Just remove the cable retaining bolt, wiggle the cable end out of the hole, pull enough to get the end of the cable near the opening, and slide it sideways to disengage it. It is meant to be installed/removed in that manner. The "wire" hook on the end of the TV mechanism (in the sump) can be grabbed with needle-nosed pliers and pulled out far enough to reconnect/disconnect it.

ramair_bryan

I think this thread is getting more tech than general...feel free mrs moderator to move us around. Anyway......I found some stuff in the pan from the old trans. So how do I flush the cooler and lines? I have air, pressure washer, water hose, etc... Th200 4 R is in place, easy bolt up so far. Need to wash up the x-member and install. Dang........ this things gonna rock.

ramair_bryan

You were right about the fan up in the shroud when I tilted the engine down. Brought everything up level with the trans on, fan took a hit.....but seems still round. Found out the shift cable bracket that bolts on the pan rail holes aren't matching. So I move on to fitting up a small pump , tubes and a bucket to flush the cooler and lines. It's easer to get to the lines when I can still tilt the trans down, so I'm going to get all that out of the way before I add the x-member. Rainng here is more incentive to make this swap. Back in a min with dirty hands.

damoroso

You can modify the shifter bracket, if you cut one of the holes so it's a slot on the outer end, it'll have a hole for a bolt on one side, and the slot will let it fit under the adjacent bolt. The holes are close and you'll still get the clamping of two bolts.

ramair_bryan

Good to know I modified the bracket correctly. After making the shifter work, I tried 27 times to make the dipstick tube fit. I gave up. Tomorrow I'm cutting off the bottom of the tube, and splicing in the rest. Got the cooler and lines flushed. kinked a line installing it. Can a guy cut off the end and use some hydro hose and clamp it back in place? How much pressure does this need to hold? flush pump went up to 60 psi and the clamps held. Won't be installing the x-member till the cooler lines are back in place. This swap is not for the faint of heart.