cut exhaust pipe-do I need splice or?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
cut exhaust pipe-do I need splice or?
To remove my gas tank, I need to cut one side of the exhaust pipe. It is one long pipe and I know where to cut, but it is the reconnecting part of the job puzzling me.
Since I have no welding equip nor experience, I thought about using the Walker Exhaust 33978 - Walker Mega Clamp to re attach pipe.
I am thinking there needs to be a short splice and then connect the clamp, but don't know for sure. Anyone tried this approach?
1969 350 4 speed.
Since I have no welding equip nor experience, I thought about using the Walker Exhaust 33978 - Walker Mega Clamp to re attach pipe.
I am thinking there needs to be a short splice and then connect the clamp, but don't know for sure. Anyone tried this approach?
1969 350 4 speed.
#2
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The Walker Mega Clamp should hold fine. Some late model muffler kits come with these same clamps as a means of connecting the new muffler to the exhaust system.
#3
Burning Brakes
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#6
Le Mans Master
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If you can't just remove the piece that's in the way, it must be some kind of custom, one piece, welded together system. Sure is a shame to have to cut it. Are you sure you can't just unbolt it and at least move it a little to get the clearance you need? At the very least, put some thought into where you cut it, for ease of re-assembly and possible future clearance issues.
Scott
Scott
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If you can't just remove the piece that's in the way, it must be some kind of custom, one piece, welded together system. Sure is a shame to have to cut it. Are you sure you can't just unbolt it and at least move it a little to get the clearance you need? At the very least, put some thought into where you cut it, for ease of re-assembly and possible future clearance issues.
Scott
Scott
My concern is after cutting the pipe and then reattaching with collar--even with a fiberglass prewrap, will create an undersireable exhaust leak. Still thinking a short splice, fiber pre wrap, then bolted collar to give me best outcome without a welder.
#8
Le Mans Master
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Is there a welded-in H-pipe, or anything like that, that connects the two sides? If not, unbolt the exhaust from the header, maybe you can twist it enough to get the clearance.
Scott
Scott
#9
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after you cut the pipe and r&r the tank, put the walker clamp on the pipe temporarly and then drive it to the muffler shop and have them weld it back together. I think thats what I will be doing when I do this project
#10
Race Director
No need to stress over this.
It's a 15 minute job.
Cut the pipes behind the xmember with a sawzall, scratch or grind orientation marks thru the cut line (no need if the rear has an h or x pipe joining), wrap fiberglass under the band and tighten. Use lots of antiseize on the bolt threads.
These have been on for years and the exhaust dropped a bunch of times and they don't leak or move. Pipes are as if they are one piece.
It's a 15 minute job.
Cut the pipes behind the xmember with a sawzall, scratch or grind orientation marks thru the cut line (no need if the rear has an h or x pipe joining), wrap fiberglass under the band and tighten. Use lots of antiseize on the bolt threads.
These have been on for years and the exhaust dropped a bunch of times and they don't leak or move. Pipes are as if they are one piece.
#11
I understand from the Power Block folks that the new style clamps are way better that the old style u clamp because you can still remove and re install that type because it does not leave an indention. If you can't weld it back, the clamp is more than sufficient.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No need to stress over this.
It's a 15 minute job.
Cut the pipes behind the xmember with a sawzall, scratch or grind orientation marks thru the cut line (no need if the rear has an h or x pipe joining), wrap fiberglass under the band and tighten. Use lots of antiseize on the bolt threads.
These have been on for years and the exhaust dropped a bunch of times and they don't leak or move. Pipes are as if they are one piece.
It's a 15 minute job.
Cut the pipes behind the xmember with a sawzall, scratch or grind orientation marks thru the cut line (no need if the rear has an h or x pipe joining), wrap fiberglass under the band and tighten. Use lots of antiseize on the bolt threads.
These have been on for years and the exhaust dropped a bunch of times and they don't leak or move. Pipes are as if they are one piece.
Very helpful. I cut as described with an air grinder and kept supported with the bungee. I'll send a finish photo when completed. Thanks!
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No need to stress over this.
It's a 15 minute job.
Cut the pipes behind the xmember with a sawzall, scratch or grind orientation marks thru the cut line (no need if the rear has an h or x pipe joining), wrap fiberglass under the band and tighten. Use lots of antiseize on the bolt threads.
These have been on for years and the exhaust dropped a bunch of times and they don't leak or move. Pipes are as if they are one piece.
It's a 15 minute job.
Cut the pipes behind the xmember with a sawzall, scratch or grind orientation marks thru the cut line (no need if the rear has an h or x pipe joining), wrap fiberglass under the band and tighten. Use lots of antiseize on the bolt threads.
These have been on for years and the exhaust dropped a bunch of times and they don't leak or move. Pipes are as if they are one piece.