proper color to rear suspension parts
#1
Drifting
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proper color to rear suspension parts
This winter I plan on rebuilding the rear TA's and having them powdercoated Semi Gloss Black. The car is a 1971 model
While there, I plan on freshening up all of the rear suspension.
I know what color the springs are ( light Grey)
I will also powdercoat the strut rod bracket and front rear end to frame bracket SEMI Gloss Black.
What I need advice on are the following parts for proper color.
A) Strut Rods Black / Grey or Natural?
B) 1/2 Shafts, I understand they are to be natural bare metal, I would like to know if there is a paint taht looks like bare metal, while preventing teh bare metal from discoloring?
C) Wheel Bearing Support, part that strut rod attached to.
D) Lower Shock Support
Thanks David
While there, I plan on freshening up all of the rear suspension.
I know what color the springs are ( light Grey)
I will also powdercoat the strut rod bracket and front rear end to frame bracket SEMI Gloss Black.
What I need advice on are the following parts for proper color.
A) Strut Rods Black / Grey or Natural?
B) 1/2 Shafts, I understand they are to be natural bare metal, I would like to know if there is a paint taht looks like bare metal, while preventing teh bare metal from discoloring?
C) Wheel Bearing Support, part that strut rod attached to.
D) Lower Shock Support
Thanks David
#2
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The NCRS Judging Guide usually lists factory finishes. Most of the time, you can find vestiges of the old original color on the part. There are a lot of unpainted parts in the rear.
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interpon (02-03-2020)
#3
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Hi David,
A. The strut rods were forged, so natural is about as close as you an come.
B. The center tube of the half shaft was shiny extruded steel with extrusion lines running in the long direction. The ends for the universal joints were forged, so again natural is about as good as you can do. The tube was welded to the ends, so a darkened area is visible at the joint. People use all kinds of interesting methods to duplicate this darkened zone.
C. Bearing supports were natural.
D. Shock lower supports were natural.
If you can come up with a way to duplicate the blue/gray scale that forged parts had/have you will become a legend.
Regards,
Alan
A. The strut rods were forged, so natural is about as close as you an come.
B. The center tube of the half shaft was shiny extruded steel with extrusion lines running in the long direction. The ends for the universal joints were forged, so again natural is about as good as you can do. The tube was welded to the ends, so a darkened area is visible at the joint. People use all kinds of interesting methods to duplicate this darkened zone.
C. Bearing supports were natural.
D. Shock lower supports were natural.
If you can come up with a way to duplicate the blue/gray scale that forged parts had/have you will become a legend.
Regards,
Alan
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interpon (02-03-2020)
#4
Drifting
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Hi David,
A. The strut rods were forged, so natural is about as close as you an come.
B. The center tube of the half shaft was shiny extruded steel with extrusion lines running in the long direction. The ends for the universal joints were forged, so again natural is about as good as you can do. The tube was welded to the ends, so a darkened area is visible at the joint. People use all kinds of interesting methods to duplicate this darkened zone.
C. Bearing supports were natural.
D. Shock lower supports were natural.
If you can come up with a way to duplicate the blue/gray scale that forged parts had/have you will become a legend.
Regards,
Alan
A. The strut rods were forged, so natural is about as close as you an come.
B. The center tube of the half shaft was shiny extruded steel with extrusion lines running in the long direction. The ends for the universal joints were forged, so again natural is about as good as you can do. The tube was welded to the ends, so a darkened area is visible at the joint. People use all kinds of interesting methods to duplicate this darkened zone.
C. Bearing supports were natural.
D. Shock lower supports were natural.
If you can come up with a way to duplicate the blue/gray scale that forged parts had/have you will become a legend.
Regards,
Alan
This is a help.
Hope all have a safe and happy holiday.
Regards
David
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interpon (02-03-2020)
#5
Melting Slicks
I went with a pewter powder coat on all of the natural chasis pieces Alan mentioned. I'm not doing an ncrs build, but trying to maintain a look that would appear to be original. For instance, the differential case would rust over the yrs because it was unfinished. Totally unacceptable for my tastes. Pewter or p6 (powder coat color) is so close in color to the bare metal that it was hard to discern the bare sand blasted gasket mating surface from the outer powder coated surface of the differential cover. Drive shaft, half shafts and mating parts all look beautiful, and will remain so for yrs to come.
#6
Drifting
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I went with a pewter powder coat on all of the natural chasis pieces Alan mentioned. I'm not doing an ncrs build, but trying to maintain a look that would appear to be original. For instance, the differential case would rust over the yrs because it was unfinished. Totally unacceptable for my tastes. Pewter or p6 (powder coat color) is so close in color to the bare metal that it was hard to discern the bare sand blasted gasket mating surface from the outer powder coated surface of the differential cover. Drive shaft, half shafts and mating parts all look beautiful, and will remain so for yrs to come.
I too am not a NCRS quality car owner, but do want to get as close as possible.
Regards
David
#7
Drifting
Keep in touch with me if you would please sir. I'm in the process of doing the very same thing as well. I might be finished in about 3 months if I'm lucky with the way my schedule is going.
GG
GG