Scott1980

While replacing items on the car (1980), my son and I are attempting to correct problems, perform suspension updates, and return some items back to original. I realize this is probably ****, but we purchased new muffler support brackets and bushings that attach to the rear frame. Old ones rusted and worn. The new brackets and hangar are just raw steel and will rust in short time as car is a DD for my son. Does anybody know if there was a finish (silver- satin black?) for these brackets before installing them?

Also, the rear spare tire carrier metal hangars that are attached to the batwing and support the spare tire carrier...we bead blasted them but are unsure if they came black or silver from the factory?

Thanks!

Easy Mike

The 80-82 NCRS Technical Information and Judging Guide lists correct factory finishes. I am willing to guess the muffler hangers were likely unfinished steel.

7T1vette

I do not attend NCRS judging contests, but I like my car to appear in the original condition. So, I never leave bare steel (or aluminum, for that matter) to corrode over time. For steel items...this includes nuts, bolts, washers but not on the threaded areas...I coat them with clear engine enamel. They stay 'clean' for a loooooooong time. Just let the paint cure for at least two days before installing; spray paint takes about 5-7 days to fully cure.

garage-ghost

Unless you are going for NCRS judging, being a DD I would just spray them with some Rust-oleum semi gloss or satin black.

Scott1980

No NCRS in the future. Just figured we would attempt to keep some original or return to original as much as reasonably possible. Spraying clear on them sounds like a plan if they were untreated from the factory.

Thanks!

KapsSA

I've got low mile original Vettes and I still decided to blast and paint some of the bare metal parts, including those exhaust hangers.
I'll take a judging hit before I want to look at rusty parts.

Easy Mike

Maybe not. The appearance of original is judged. Original was, of course, new. If the part is original and you've clear coated them but they do not appear to have been clear coated, you could be okay. If the part was unfinished from the factory and you have a perfect coat of semi-flat black on it, you can expect to get dinged.

Alan 71

Hi Scott,
I've found that by doing a little experimenting with flat and semi-flat clear, and also high-temp clear, you can do a pretty nice job of having protection on parts that look 'bare'.
Regards,
Alan

Steve2147

I've been using Varathane brand aerasol satin urethane on raw parts for years. You can not tell them from uncoated. The cars are not DD's, but they've held up to washing quite well over the years.

Steve g

7T1vette

Oh, this is NCRS blasphemy! M.W. will just have a fit! Have we no shame?....

[]

hunt4cleanair

What gloss level...satin? Flat?

If I would have read further...I would have got answers with options!

hunt4cleanair

What's the difference between urethane and polyurethane?

Steve2147

I don't know if this is where the difference lies or is correct in all instances, but the polyurethanes that we use on automotive finishes use an activater whereas the urethane aerosol doesn't. I'd be interested to know myself.

Steve g

Edit: Googled it and the terms are used interchangeably.

Easy Mike

Mike'll be fine.

I have none whatsoever.

STL'79

Scott: Did you mean your son will be using the '80 as a Daily Driver? Hope his commute is shorter than mine..... I'll drive the '79 on Fridays, but at 12 mpg I'd need several pay raises to afford that!

Mike Ward

MW is killing himself laughing actually. Some people still don't 'get it'.

TWINRAY

Eastwoods "Satin Black" in a spray bomb is great stuff. More expensive that Rustoleum or Krylon but well worth it IMHO. They make a couple of varieties but I use the basic (cheapest of the lot). It covers great even with one coat.