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U-joint squeaks...how to re-grease?

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Old 09-22-2011, 06:28 PM
  #21  
rafalc
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Originally Posted by Rally68
Spicer solids, IIRC they are part #1350. As TWINRAY said, be careful with the dust caps. Also, I had to relieve the half-shaft ears to get the Spicers to fit:



It was the only way to gat the spiders in the half shafts...You don't have to remove much material
Rally...where do you get yours from? Any quality supplier with decent prices?

Thanks
Old 09-23-2011, 08:38 AM
  #22  
Rally68
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I honestly don't remember where I got mine from; I ordered a lot of parts from Duntov when I did my rear suspension and differential, but I think it may have been from Denny's Driveshafts in New York. If you find what looks like a cheap price make sure it's not for the greasable joints; I believe there are Spicer 1350 "series" joints that have a zerk.
Old 09-23-2011, 09:20 AM
  #23  
rafalc
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Originally Posted by Rally68
I honestly don't remember where I got mine from; I ordered a lot of parts from Duntov when I did my rear suspension and differential, but I think it may have been from Denny's Driveshafts in New York. If you find what looks like a cheap price make sure it's not for the greasable joints; I believe there are Spicer 1350 "series" joints that have a zerk.
I looked up both places and they have assmepled shafts with ujoints and flange for decent prices. I figured getting 2 ujoints ($50), flange ($50), paying a shop to press them in ($~20)...that equals to $120. So for an additional $60-$70 I can get the entire assembly with a new half shaft.

What do you guys think? How can I visually tell if my half shafts are done or close to being done?

Also, when it comes to half shafts...would you go with original GM or these:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1_1...aft.html#photo

http://www.duntovmotors.com/differentials-63-79.php

I don't plan on taking the car to the track...just street...pushing it...but still street.

Thanks
Old 09-23-2011, 11:12 AM
  #24  
TWINRAY
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One of those "ask me how I know's" - press the old u-joints out. Don't just start wacking with a BFH and hope they come out. The flanges are pricy.
Old 09-23-2011, 11:15 AM
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TWINRAY
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Originally Posted by rafalc
, flange ($50),
You won't need new flanges unless you try taking the old u-joints out with a hammer. the flange needs to be supported when they are "pressed" out.
Old 09-23-2011, 11:45 AM
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this is what you want...
Old 09-23-2011, 12:45 PM
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rafalc
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Yup, those are the ones I'm getting.

But the question still is ... how to visually tell if half shafts need to be replaced? Is there a way?

If i only have to spend an extra $60-$70 and get a complete assembly with the shaft....I just might.
Old 09-23-2011, 01:09 PM
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Rally68
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Originally Posted by rafalc
Yup, those are the ones I'm getting.

But the question still is ... how to visually tell if half shafts need to be replaced? Is there a way?

If i only have to spend an extra $60-$70 and get a complete assembly with the shaft....I just might.
They don't wear out in service so unless they have suffered impact damage (and you'd already know if that were the case), it is very unlikely that you need new halfshafts.

Actually, I should say they don't fail from STREET use; somebody on here used to have an avatar picture of a pair of halfshafts twisted up like somebody wringing out a towel!

There's nothing wrong with buying new if you want, but if it were me I'd spend some of that $70 on a can of Cast-Blast, freshen up the exisiting shafts, and put the rest of that $$ in my pocket.
Old 09-23-2011, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Nope. Insufficient friction modifier doesn't cause a 'squeak' noise. Bad u-joints or brake problems do.
I have not heard of the rear end squeaking Ether but the turning at low speeds does kinda chatter but not squeak.But the fluid getting swapped out anyway so he will be tight when he gets her done.



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