jr105

A few years ago there was a thread in the C3 section of CF about wooden ramps/platforms built from the plans at following site.

http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm

I am looking at doing some exhaust work on my '81 and was wondering if anyone actually built these and if so how did they work out? I don't like working under the car up on 4 jackstands and am wondering about the stability and strength of these. Looking at Home Depots website it looks like they could be built for about $150.

pws69

I built a similar setup using plans from another member. The version I built has 4 "boxes" that the 4 wheels end up on. Between the boxes, I have removable "bridges" with removable "legs". When the bridges are removed (just slide out from the side), you can get under the car from the sides also. Extremely nice for serious work.

I put my car up on them for winter storage - can pack lots of stuff underneath and in the spring, I just unpack the stuff, do the oil change, and drive her off. Everything comes apart (except for the 4 boxes) and I store it all in my shed when not in use.

The plans are around - I will see if I can find them and if so, send them along.

** Found the plans - Brian Seery's design - here ya go - www.speakeasy.org/~pws/woodenlift.pdf

jr105

PM sent

BTGRN75

I did.
2x12 pt top and bottom. Strand board sides. 2x6 fir for the insides.Added cut outs(in the strand board) at the top front and back to slide and pick them up-not as heavy as you would think.Used 2x12x8s pt for ramps (cut outs for planks at top as shown and large hooks to hold them from moving back). Plastic drive ramps as shown-with 2 extra L shaped 2x6 fir -(1 per side) between plastic drive ramps and platforms(just sit there).And the two cross braces. Position front one to go on top of the forward wheel stop pieces, and the rear to be just behind rear wheels.

They work great-and they are STRONG. I also use a spotter both ways

Only downside is can't really lift or take off wheels and you still have to use a creeper or lay on your back. It is more of a reach. So you will still have to use the jack stands for some projects.

What I would do different is use 2x6 fir on the bottom to lighten them if they are going to stay inside and not get wet often.
I use them for a work bench after I stack them.

bobs77vet

of course do as you want....but $150 is alot of coin for that why not just get two inexpensive steel ramps to drive up on and then jack the *** end up and put on 2 real jack stands that have at least a 10"x 10" base? or use 4 real jack stands with wide base? you cant push my car over on jack stands no matter how hard you try.
alternatively you could buy 2 sets of the car ramps and drive up on the first and just jack the car up and set the car down on the 2nd set of them.


these are the real jack stands i am referring to (the blue ones)

UberLegend

I use 2 sets of Walmart's black ramps @$42/.

The boxes would get me higher, appeals to my inner Bubba, and an old sleeping bag as suggested is good for a creeper.

jr105

I noticed the "old sleeping bag for a creeper" idea too. I guess it would also absorb the PS fluid that drips on my garage floor.

nutsy

i had the black ones from walmart. 1 day i heard a crack sound but couldnt find anything . a couple days later i found a black peice of plastic on the floor that came from the ramp. then i found a small crack in it. brought them right back. be carefull with them, there very dangerouse. i made new ones that are built solid with lumber.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

You won't have that problem with solid foam core Race Ramps. Plus Race Ramps are a lot easier to handle and store than heavy wooden ramps.

A benefit of Race Ramps that is often overlooked is that they hold their value very well. I regularly see F/S posts on CF with Race Ramps priced at 75% or more of MSRP. The above average resale value significantly reduces the total cost of ownership of Race Ramps. When it's time to get rid of superstore plastic ramps or wooden ramps you will probably be lucky to just give them away.

joewill

what is wrong with using good jackstands? I would trust my life to four good jackstands before I would trust it to that wood and plywood eyesore. you are just making more work for yourself and when done you can't just stuff them into a cabinet or into the corner of the garage, they take up a significant amount of square footage.

couperdecar

I made myself some wooden ramps / platforms a few years ago. You always have to roll in from the back or the front of the car. And I have to store them on the opposite side of the house. PITA. I just use jackstands now or drive over to the buddies place and use his pit.

shmoky

I'm surprised there is so much negativity about these ramps. I made a set 4 years ago and think they are the best for working on the car. I actually store my car on them thru out the driving season... arrive home and drive right up on them and park it. The car is VERY easy to work on and if I need to get under it it is a breeze. Not a problem going in from the front or back for me as I have a cement floor and the crawler works fine. Here's a pic.



shmoky

TheSkunkWorks

I'm 3rd generation in the home building business, and have a fairly decent handle on stick framing construction (plenty of hands-on work included), as well as experience with spans and cantilevers as large as 75'. A car exerts far more loading per square inch than we deal with, and we can't even get away with single top 2"x plates on load bearing walls with the joists/rafters stacked directly above the studs. In addition, unless I missed it I didn't see any reference to internal support beams. They might never fail, but given my background I can't say I'd bet my life on it. At a minimum, I'd double the top boards and add some studs directly beneath the tires.

Sorry, not out to flame you, as I do admire the effort. JMO, however much cred it may or may not carry.

shmoky

If you look close in my photo you can see 2x12 uprights inside the box about every 12 inches or so. I've even had my chevy 1/2 ton on the ramps.

shmoky

UberLegend

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Before you decide to make wooden ramps go to Home Depot and make sure you can lift three eight foot long 2 x 10s at the same time. That should convince you to save up a couple of hundred dollars for a set of Race Ramps that are at least 2" wider and 2" higher than four 2 x 10s stacked together.

Here's a rough total cost of ownership comparison between the heavy wooden ramps and the back saving Race Ramps.

Wooden ramps: $60
Resale value: $0
Total cost: $60

56" Race Ramps: $203
Resale Value: $150
Total cost: $53

The best choice for DIY automotive ramps is Race Ramps. Plenty of CF forum members have discovered this first hand. The second best choice is a set of used Race Ramps purchased from someone who has sold their low ground clearance car.

Binnie77

CaptSteveW

One of the first things I did after buying my 73 was to build a set of these ramps. They work very well. It takes me about 20 minutes to wheel them into the shop and set them up.

These ramps would support a tank. They are very sturdy. I had a 60 Chevy fall of a set of stands when I was a kid. Never again will I put a car up high on jack stands. Much simpler to roll in the ramps and drive the car up onto it.

TheSkunkWorks

You've missed my point entirely.

shmoky

Apparently I Did. I just pointed out the extra uprights that are part of the original design. Which I guess is the point you were trying to make.

shmoky