Wrecked82

VHT Flameproof Coating paint claims to have silicone ceramic base and good up to 2000*. Would that be good for coating your own headers and exhaust? Would it be effective in heat control?

dgood

I used that along with high temp primer on my headers. I sanded them all down to bare metal (except in the tight spots) and put two coats of primer and three coats of the flameproof coating. I did not see the temps go down in the cabin and the paint is starting to come off on a couple of spots.

My suggestion would be to wrap them. The paint was a waste of my time and they don't look much better than when they were all rusty. If you sand blasted your headers you may get better adhesion but it did not drop the heat at all in my cabin. Foot still got hot as a well diggers behind. Put reflectix and some insulation down there and it is all better now.

Insulation in the floor board and put the tranny tunnel insulation thingy in up by the engine.

Vette5.5

Most everyone here agrees these paints are a waste of time. Best to send them out to places like Jet Hot for proper coating. Not sure of reducing under hood temperatures, but seem to look like new for years.

Wrecked82

Thanks. That settles the question for me.

7T1vette

Most everyone here...but not me. I can't vouch for VHT on manifolds (although I use it for things in the engine compartment and have never had a problem), but I have used Seymour "Cast Blast" which is essentially the same type of product--ceramic based paint: clean part well (media blast then wash/dry), shoot a couple of coats on the manifold and let dry, install and let the exhaust heat bake/cure the paint. Works like a charm! Had it on the stock cast iron manifolds for two years and they still look like new, clean cast iron...no rust anywhere.

I'm sure there are more of us out there then some folks think. I have used VHT on my alternator housing, then baked it in an oven (per directions). It looks like new aluminum and will for years. No chipping, no oxidation.

And, no, it does nothing to reduce heat off the manifolds. This is a layer or two of paint...not thick ceramic insulator coating. But they look purty.

THefley

have them ceramic coated. I have had this done in the past with no problems

7T1vette

If you want to retain the heat (rather than dumping it), have them ceramic coated. If you just want them to look good for a long, long time, use the Seymour "Cast Blast" stuff.

terry82

there needs to be a covering or header jacket .theres a thermo cover for starters .maybe something like that for headers.you could call it a thermo header sock .

Solid LT1

VHT= Very High Temprature paint developed for areospace applications in the late 50's early 60's was a mainstay of hotrodding but, I don't know if the formula has changed. Why the previous posted painted a set of headers with primer first then VHT over it I can't understand, VHT goes directly on bare metal. If it is untouched by engine oil leaks or cold water when it is HOT VHT will last for a couple of years on a exhaust application providing the metal is properly prepped before application (take to a sand blaster or machine shop and have them strip the metal.)
Here is a link: http://www.vhtpaint.com/

ikwhite

There is, it's called header wrap.

terry82

i dont like the regular wrap that they use .i am thinking more like a blanket .they have ceramic blankets that they use for other things .but i think it would work better than the wraps.the blankets may work more as a heat sheild.ITS JUST A IDEA.

ikwhite

I media blasted then painted my headers with the VHT high temp coating, they were then heat cycled on my engine test stand,and finished off by using DEI titanuium wrap. I guess time will tell if these last, but I dont think they look to bad and I know they will cut down on the heat. I can't comment to ceramic headers as I have never run them, but others seem to be very happy with them.





ikwhite

7T1vette

Maybe I missed something early in this post, but you can't use non-VHT primer, follow it with VHT, and expect it to survive high heat. The primer is your 'weak link', if that is the correct scenario. Either use a primer recommended for use with VHT that can also stand the heat, or don't use a primer. Seymour 'Cast Blast' doesn't need a primer, either.