Sebastian

Helping a friend interested in purchasing first vette. Nice blue 68 vert. with VIN: 194678s406049.

427 block has matching serial number, but I don't believe it is the real deal because of price ($25k).

Any way to tell whether it's just a re-stamped block? I know the 68 VIN doesn't tell what block should be in the car. Any other clues we should look for?

Thanks for any help.

Sebastian.

Nowhere Man

what is the date code of the block, what does the full stamp pad read, and what is the car build date. does all the other major parts dates line up.

Jeff_Keryk

Easy checks are: Aluminum Low-Rise Intake, bigger axles, I think all BB's had posi(?), tune-up sticker on firewall, sticker on shift plate. And check for body damage; all BB's got sideways at one time or another.

Alan 71

Hi S,
Some information about the rest of the car might indicate how good, (or bad), a deal $25k is.
For instance the car COULD be very rusty which would not be a good thing.
So... what else do you know about it?
Regards,
Alan

BBCorv70

Unless this car was restored I don't necessarily think $25K is all that low. I assume it's a base model 427? Does it need paint?

So far as restamping goes I doubt any seller would set a lower price for a restamp unless they're telling you this is what it is. Most restampers are after top dollar.

There are many clues to look for if you do a quick search. Redline, radiator, etc.

Some can look at the stamp pad, judge the broach marks, a test of authenticity.

Or as Alan71 suggests, it could have issues such as rust which are VERY expensive, labor intensive to fix.

Faster Rat

Look at the block casting number (driver side) and date code (passenger side)...at the top rear of the block, just in front of the bellhousing. Give us that info and a high resolution picture of the stamp pad. As others have said, doubtful a restamper would go thru all the trouble of finding a correct block and then let it go for $25k...which by the way isn't out of line for an unrestored original engine car. Just depends on what is wrong with it. They all have something wrong.

Without original documentation, you have to look deeper and add everything up. Even then, questions will remain. We have GM to thank for destroying the build records by VIN.

PRNDL

"Nice blue 68 vert. with VIN: 194678s406049" (mine is a little earlier)

That would be a fair description of my car, and a fair price as well. There were lots of L-36 cars made in 1968 (427 390 hp engine option). If the stamping looks decent I would presume original. If I was going to fake a 427 I would build a tripower.... or an L-88.

Sebastian

Thanks for the advice. I will check for the block casting number and date code, as well as some of the other items you all suggest. I should have mentioned that we are in Toronto, Canada. Convertible stingrays in fairly good condition are usually bigger money - this should be going for about $40-$45 as the paint is fairly recently done and with little blemishes. Will let you know what we find out.
Thanks.

Mike Ward

Seb,

I came within minutes of buying a 69 blue convertible 4 speed big block in Toronto several years ago for exactly the same price. I was ready, my partner got cold feet despite it not being winter.

Don't count the car out just yet. Post some pics.

24695bob

The Carb is numbered...pull the valve covers and you will see tghe heads are numbered the distributor is numbered as well as the alternator... these parts will not match your vin but a 427 will have a distributer numbered 1111294....295..or 296

the heads were either 3917215 or 3919840 or 842... if any of these match its a good indication it is a 427 out of a corvette...doesn't answer if it was the original engine however....

I purchased a CE block complete engine 327 out of a 67 maybe 10 years ago (CE block is a factory warranty replacement) and every internal part matched numbers wise internally to a factory "HT" 327...

Bob G.

WESCH

Hi

If the stamp pad looks good and the numbers there match, check the casting date of the block. If that fits as well, your chances are very great that it is the correct engine.

sticker on shift plate.

The sticker on the shift plate does not indicate anything about the engine in a 68.

It is as of 69.

And anyway, if you don't get any paperwork, like tank sticker, window sticker etc with the car that proofs the BB option, your so called NM block isn't realy worse anything special.

Rgds. Günther

PRNDL

My seller was from Ajax. He brought the car to Carlisle to sell it.

BBCorv70

NM block? What's a NM block?

If you're saying without a tank sticker or window sticker the big block isn't worth a bonus over a comparable small block I would have to strongly disagree. I'd pay more for a big block any day over a small block, car otherwise in comparable condition.

If we're talking about a collectible, I can agree that the lack of documentation may knock some value off given the high degree of skepticism I read about when it comes to evaluating more desireable drive trains.

avalonjohn

best thing to do here is check the dates and part # cast on the block, then take a real good high resolution picture of the stamp pad and post it here. Plenty of NCRS Judges on the Forum. As others said, w/o more info on the car, 25k does not seem all that out of range if it is a 427/390 car, maybe even a 400hp car depending on what else needs to be done.

WESCH

Hi

Of course is a BB more desireable and a BB chrome bumper Vette surely sells more expensive.
I was purely speaking about the NM extra cost of BB.
A BB C3 without the documentation to proof it will never fetch the same money as a documentated NM BB, regardless how correct the stamp pad etc is.

I sold my 68 390 HP BB with NM block/heads ( + tank sticket still on tank ) for 25.000 Euros, this 2 years ago ( when this cars where still expensive and no recession lowering the prices ) . If I import a 25.000 USD expensive car from the US to Europe, it costs me exactly 25.000 Euros before it is on the road due to import tax , transport etc. I believe that 25 K for a 390 HP BB is a acceptable price to get a good driver. A 400 HP Tripower car for 25 K is rare and probably in bad shape.

Rgds. Günther

Yankeededandy

In these times of soft pricing, anything is possible. It also seems as if the gap between 68 and 69 models is getting bigger. I'm amazed at what low prices some of these cars are selling today. Still, I would be very suspicous about a 25K BB convertible. A little paranoia never hurt anyone. Has anyone seen pictures of the car? Undercarriage? Birdframe? Paint, Interior? I was (and am) always afraid to get a car at a bargain price just to pour thousands of dollars into it to make it presentable and drivable. My 69 SB cost me more than this a year ago (in Europe). But then again, miracles happen.

Martin

BBCorv70

All makes sense though I still don't know what NM means...

BBCorv70

I find the suspicion about a $25K price to be quite strange since there's no mention of any issues. Many people seem suspicious. Would people feel better if he raised his price?

As you say, prices are down now, deals to be had. If I were in the market I'd contact the fellow, get more info, ask for pictures, etc. If it still sounded interesting, have a look.

Yankeededandy

Got me there. That's probably just what some folks like me are thinking who already own a Corvette and paid far higher prices. If I was in the market, I would have looked at it, too.

Martin

Faster Rat

Roger, I could guess....the infamous "Numbers Matching"? You know, the more I hear that term bantered about, the more I dislike it. Replacing it with an acronym doesn't help at all...makes it even worse.
Dennis