Gasoline Additive for Ethanol Protection
11-04-2010, 06:59 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Mike and others: The use of Ethonal is a problem for us in the states. I do believe it will get easier for us in the future. Mike you commented you have been using ethanol for the past 20 years without any problems. I do believe you whole heartedly. The problem we are seeing in the states is we are just starting to use ethanol in most all fuel. The old fuel tanks at the gas station were varnished up from regular gas, the ethanol is cleaning the fuel tanks by dislodging the crud. Where does it go? Into our cars and trucks. The fuel tanks on our Vettes are varnished up, where does it go when we burn up the gas? Into the old carb. The older fuel lines are rubber and not really in good shap anyway, but with ethanol use the rubber is being deteriorated rapidly. As time goes by, and we and our cars get used to ethanol, we will see less problems. I did a write up for our customers this past spring, I copied it to this site, Basically it is intended for marine use but It does have some crediance here also. Al
The Problems With Ethanol
In the spring and early summer of this year (2010), we at Allan's Mobile Marine
have experienced no less than an epidemic of boat owners complaining about
ethanol related fuel problems. These problems range from poor performance
due to hard starting, rough running, hesitation, and even stalling -- to clogged up fuel filters and injectors, and also gummed up carburetors. In addition, more and more customers are continuing to bring their boats in for repairs for the same symptoms.
In the meanwhile, we have spent many hours researching this new dilemma
for our valued customers. Besides reading much material on the subject, we have spoken at length with officials at Mercruiser Marine and Indmar, well known manufacturers of marine engines. We have also consulted with personnel at oil and gasoline distributors, including one terminal where ethanol is actually blended with fuel. And last but not least, we have consulted with personnel with the manufacturers of Sea Foam and Marine Sta-bil which are special stabilizers for ethanol gasoline.
After doing the research and collecting facts and opinions from many different
sources, we have come to realize there are several common sense questions
that need to be answered. The following is a brief overview of these issues:
Why is ethanol just now becoming such a huge problem?
Prior to 2009, ethanol was not in all the fuel we use in many regions of the
United States. However, in the summer and fall of that year -- and particularly in the first six months of this year -- all the gasoline distributors began converting their stations over to ethanol fuels. Also, bear in mind that, thanks to our politicians, there is no notification required by law unless more than ten percent of ethanol is added to fuel. Even premium gas now has ethanol.
Unsuspecting boat owners purchased this ethanol blended fuel and stored
their boats for the winter. As it turns out, vehicles which sit for long periods of time, such as boats, lawn mowers, weed eaters, tractors etc are more
susceptible to ethanol problems.
The reason is as follows:
Ethanol is a magnet for water. It attaches itself to water, whether from the
bottom of the tank where natural condensation has occurred, or even from the air in the tank. Normally, water falls to the bottom where it is out of harms way until it reaches an unsafe level. However, ethanol actually “pulls” the moisture out of the air into the gasoline and suspends this water in the fuel, contaminating the whole tank. Being suspended in the fuel, the engine is then burning a mixture of gasoline and water -- all the time. Eventually, the ethanol separates from the gasoline (phase separation) and falls to the bottom of the tank still attached to the water, forming a “glob” of sticky material. When this substance accumulates high enough in the tank, then the engine is drawing in pure ethanol and water -- stalling the engine.
Cars and trucks are generally used every day, and therefore, use up the
ethanol fuel in a more timely fashion, giving it less time to cause problems.
However, be sure it is in fact accumulating moisture in those tanks as well over a longer period of time, and if allowed to accumulate, water can wreak havoc on the entire fuel system.
Another potential problem exists with the gas stations:
Bear in mind that ethanol is very corrosive and attacks aluminum and
fiberglass tanks. It also attacks rubber fuel lines and other fuel system
components unless they were manufactured specifically for use with ethanol.
According to the oil and gas distributors we spoke with, they cleaned their station tanks before adding ethanol fuels. However, it is true that some station owners did not, and as a result, the new ethanol fuels scrubbed and scoured their tanks free of old rust and accumulated debris. Then this loosened material actually went into many vehicles causing much damage. We know of one person whom this has already happened to, and reports of many others.
It is also noteworthy to mention that, due to the problems with ethanol, the oil companies refuse to allow ethanol fuels to be pumped in their main pipelines. They insist it be blended at the terminals where trucks are loaded for shipment to gas stations. It is not good for the oil companies -- but it is fine for our vehicles.
Another potential problem with gas stations is the fact that whereas ethanol is separating from fuel and collecting moister in our vehicles, it is also happening in the tanks at the gas stations -- a fact you won’t hear much about. However, it is common sense, as the same conditions exist in those underground tanks as does in vehicle tanks. As long as the station owners are vigilant and check their tanks on a frequent basis, and then pump out any ethanol and water collected on the bottom, then perhaps all will be well. However, when left to accumulate to a certain level, a concentration of water and ethanol is pumped into vehicles, again causing much harm. One station attendant at a large Exxon station confided they must check their tanks every day because of this very problem.
Other harmful effects of ethanol.
While the purpose of ethanol is supposedly to lessen our dependence on
foreign oil, and since it burns more cleanly due to its plant (non petroleum)
origins, it is also used as a less expensive method of boosting gasoline octane. When the ethanol separates from gasoline, then the fuel looses its octane rating, causing pinging or spark knocking in engines, again causing potential harm. Also, ethanol is a dry fuel in that it scours the oil film from cylinder walls, causing piston rings and other components to wear prematurely. Reports of ethanol damage to engines are being made more frequently, and lawsuits are becoming more common. A search on the internet for ethanol problems will give pause for serious reflection. However, beware there are some websites that give false information such as one which states that vehicles manufactured since 1970 can safely use ethanol. Don’t believe it -- as experience has proven otherwise.
What can I do about the problem with ethanol?
Generally speaking, the gasoline distributors have left a few stores scattered
around that still have non-ethanol fuel.
You should immediately try and locate an ethanol free store in your area and
use it in everything you own -- especially those vehicles that sit idle for long periods of time. It would be wise to call a few gasoline distributors in your area and they will advise you which of their stores have non-ethanol gas. The station attendants often do not know for sure, since it may not be posted on the pumps.
Secondly, you should get a can of Sea Foam or the new Marine Sta-bil and
put it in every vehicle. (Sea Foam can be found at automotive parts stores,
Super Wal-Marts, and marine dealers. Marine Sta-bil can be found at marine
dealers and some parts stores.) This will help disperse the water already
accumulated in the tank and help to make it burn with minimal harmful effects.
These special stabilizers literally take the water away from the ethanol by
isolating the water molecules. They also have cleaning agents and emulsifiers to
liquefy the gum and varnish already formed in the system. If problems still persist you will have to have your tank cleaned and new filters installed. By the way, the stabilizers used in the past, including regular Sta-bil, have only a minimal effect with ethanol fuels.
If you must use ethanol gasoline in your boat or other vehicles that are idle
for long periods of time, you will have to use one of these stabilizers in every tank of gas -- or else pay someone to remedy the inevitable problems which will occur.
According to Sea Foam, for your everyday car or truck, you should use a can
of their stabilizer in your fuel tank every 3,000 or 4,000 miles. This will ensure
the moisture and phase separation will be reduced to a minimum, thereby
preventing or minimizing any long term ill effects.
Another point to be made is ethanol causes poor gas mileage, especially when phase separation occurs. We have found that a tank full of non-ethanol
fuel and a can of one of these special stabilizers will restore fuel economy and give a noticeable increase in performance.
You will probably be interested in knowing there are at least three
contenders for the best treatments for ethanol gasoline. The following websites may be helpful. Sea Foam Marine Sta-Bil Startron.
Best of luck Allan and Lois
__________________
The Problems With Ethanol
In the spring and early summer of this year (2010), we at Allan's Mobile Marine
have experienced no less than an epidemic of boat owners complaining about
ethanol related fuel problems. These problems range from poor performance
due to hard starting, rough running, hesitation, and even stalling -- to clogged up fuel filters and injectors, and also gummed up carburetors. In addition, more and more customers are continuing to bring their boats in for repairs for the same symptoms.
In the meanwhile, we have spent many hours researching this new dilemma
for our valued customers. Besides reading much material on the subject, we have spoken at length with officials at Mercruiser Marine and Indmar, well known manufacturers of marine engines. We have also consulted with personnel at oil and gasoline distributors, including one terminal where ethanol is actually blended with fuel. And last but not least, we have consulted with personnel with the manufacturers of Sea Foam and Marine Sta-bil which are special stabilizers for ethanol gasoline.
After doing the research and collecting facts and opinions from many different
sources, we have come to realize there are several common sense questions
that need to be answered. The following is a brief overview of these issues:
Why is ethanol just now becoming such a huge problem?
Prior to 2009, ethanol was not in all the fuel we use in many regions of the
United States. However, in the summer and fall of that year -- and particularly in the first six months of this year -- all the gasoline distributors began converting their stations over to ethanol fuels. Also, bear in mind that, thanks to our politicians, there is no notification required by law unless more than ten percent of ethanol is added to fuel. Even premium gas now has ethanol.
Unsuspecting boat owners purchased this ethanol blended fuel and stored
their boats for the winter. As it turns out, vehicles which sit for long periods of time, such as boats, lawn mowers, weed eaters, tractors etc are more
susceptible to ethanol problems.
The reason is as follows:
Ethanol is a magnet for water. It attaches itself to water, whether from the
bottom of the tank where natural condensation has occurred, or even from the air in the tank. Normally, water falls to the bottom where it is out of harms way until it reaches an unsafe level. However, ethanol actually “pulls” the moisture out of the air into the gasoline and suspends this water in the fuel, contaminating the whole tank. Being suspended in the fuel, the engine is then burning a mixture of gasoline and water -- all the time. Eventually, the ethanol separates from the gasoline (phase separation) and falls to the bottom of the tank still attached to the water, forming a “glob” of sticky material. When this substance accumulates high enough in the tank, then the engine is drawing in pure ethanol and water -- stalling the engine.
Cars and trucks are generally used every day, and therefore, use up the
ethanol fuel in a more timely fashion, giving it less time to cause problems.
However, be sure it is in fact accumulating moisture in those tanks as well over a longer period of time, and if allowed to accumulate, water can wreak havoc on the entire fuel system.
Another potential problem exists with the gas stations:
Bear in mind that ethanol is very corrosive and attacks aluminum and
fiberglass tanks. It also attacks rubber fuel lines and other fuel system
components unless they were manufactured specifically for use with ethanol.
According to the oil and gas distributors we spoke with, they cleaned their station tanks before adding ethanol fuels. However, it is true that some station owners did not, and as a result, the new ethanol fuels scrubbed and scoured their tanks free of old rust and accumulated debris. Then this loosened material actually went into many vehicles causing much damage. We know of one person whom this has already happened to, and reports of many others.
It is also noteworthy to mention that, due to the problems with ethanol, the oil companies refuse to allow ethanol fuels to be pumped in their main pipelines. They insist it be blended at the terminals where trucks are loaded for shipment to gas stations. It is not good for the oil companies -- but it is fine for our vehicles.
Another potential problem with gas stations is the fact that whereas ethanol is separating from fuel and collecting moister in our vehicles, it is also happening in the tanks at the gas stations -- a fact you won’t hear much about. However, it is common sense, as the same conditions exist in those underground tanks as does in vehicle tanks. As long as the station owners are vigilant and check their tanks on a frequent basis, and then pump out any ethanol and water collected on the bottom, then perhaps all will be well. However, when left to accumulate to a certain level, a concentration of water and ethanol is pumped into vehicles, again causing much harm. One station attendant at a large Exxon station confided they must check their tanks every day because of this very problem.
Other harmful effects of ethanol.
While the purpose of ethanol is supposedly to lessen our dependence on
foreign oil, and since it burns more cleanly due to its plant (non petroleum)
origins, it is also used as a less expensive method of boosting gasoline octane. When the ethanol separates from gasoline, then the fuel looses its octane rating, causing pinging or spark knocking in engines, again causing potential harm. Also, ethanol is a dry fuel in that it scours the oil film from cylinder walls, causing piston rings and other components to wear prematurely. Reports of ethanol damage to engines are being made more frequently, and lawsuits are becoming more common. A search on the internet for ethanol problems will give pause for serious reflection. However, beware there are some websites that give false information such as one which states that vehicles manufactured since 1970 can safely use ethanol. Don’t believe it -- as experience has proven otherwise.
What can I do about the problem with ethanol?
Generally speaking, the gasoline distributors have left a few stores scattered
around that still have non-ethanol fuel.
You should immediately try and locate an ethanol free store in your area and
use it in everything you own -- especially those vehicles that sit idle for long periods of time. It would be wise to call a few gasoline distributors in your area and they will advise you which of their stores have non-ethanol gas. The station attendants often do not know for sure, since it may not be posted on the pumps.
Secondly, you should get a can of Sea Foam or the new Marine Sta-bil and
put it in every vehicle. (Sea Foam can be found at automotive parts stores,
Super Wal-Marts, and marine dealers. Marine Sta-bil can be found at marine
dealers and some parts stores.) This will help disperse the water already
accumulated in the tank and help to make it burn with minimal harmful effects.
These special stabilizers literally take the water away from the ethanol by
isolating the water molecules. They also have cleaning agents and emulsifiers to
liquefy the gum and varnish already formed in the system. If problems still persist you will have to have your tank cleaned and new filters installed. By the way, the stabilizers used in the past, including regular Sta-bil, have only a minimal effect with ethanol fuels.
If you must use ethanol gasoline in your boat or other vehicles that are idle
for long periods of time, you will have to use one of these stabilizers in every tank of gas -- or else pay someone to remedy the inevitable problems which will occur.
According to Sea Foam, for your everyday car or truck, you should use a can
of their stabilizer in your fuel tank every 3,000 or 4,000 miles. This will ensure
the moisture and phase separation will be reduced to a minimum, thereby
preventing or minimizing any long term ill effects.
Another point to be made is ethanol causes poor gas mileage, especially when phase separation occurs. We have found that a tank full of non-ethanol
fuel and a can of one of these special stabilizers will restore fuel economy and give a noticeable increase in performance.
You will probably be interested in knowing there are at least three
contenders for the best treatments for ethanol gasoline. The following websites may be helpful. Sea Foam Marine Sta-Bil Startron.
Best of luck Allan and Lois
__________________
11-04-2010, 07:21 PM
#22
Team Owner
11-04-2010, 07:22 PM
#23
Mike and others: The use of Ethonal is a problem for us in the states. I do believe it will get easier for us in the future. Mike you commented you have been using ethanol for the past 20 years without any problems. I do believe you whole heartedly. The problem we are seeing in the states is we are just starting to use ethanol in most all fuel. The old fuel tanks at the gas station were varnished up from regular gas, the ethanol is cleaning the fuel tanks by dislodging the crud. Where does it go? Into our cars and trucks. The fuel tanks on our Vettes are varnished up, where does it go when we burn up the gas? Into the old carb. The older fuel lines are rubber and not really in good shap anyway, but with ethanol use the rubber is being deteriorated rapidly. As time goes by, and we and our cars get used to ethanol, we will see less problems.
Thanks for taking the time to write all that- very much appreciated especially if you're a two finger hunt and peck like me. I agree with some of your observations BUT the key is that these 'miracle fluids' will NOT cure the basic problem of dislodging and dissolving old residue which is about the only characteristic of relevance that can be associated to the 'sudden' introduction to a car that hasn't seen E10 before.
The water collection issue is not applicable to metal tank Corvettes stored with a full tank- I and others who have long term experience see no problems.
Non-compliant fuel lines and pumps haven't existed for well over 15-20 years. If your fuel lines are older than that, they're past their useful life and are now a safety hazard.
11-04-2010, 07:26 PM
#24
Team Owner
Allan,
A very informative reply. Thank you. But it does not explain why my late-model Impala just keeps motoring on...? Have I missed something?
No it is not GM FlexFuel. A GM boondoggle. We do not have E85 in Canada. What were they thinking when E85 is not available here?
A very informative reply. Thank you. But it does not explain why my late-model Impala just keeps motoring on...? Have I missed something?
No it is not GM FlexFuel. A GM boondoggle. We do not have E85 in Canada. What were they thinking when E85 is not available here?
Last edited by Paul L; 11-04-2010 at 07:49 PM.
11-04-2010, 08:15 PM
#26
Race Director
Back to the OP and carbureted corvettes. There seems to be more than enough problems brought forth as noted by some people in the biz of carbs.
Just a quick side note. You will see some folks post that they have not had any troubles with this new fuel, the old "I've been building carbs for decades with this kit and that kit, no issues, etc, etc". These folks are being quite honest.
Even so, most of this comes from the fact that their old rubber pump seals are near the end of their life cycle. New rubber is very soft, and in contact with this new fuel fails immediately. Rubber that's been in service for a while is much harder, and resists swelling in contact with the new fuel. Eventually, however, it will crack/break.
The best quality Viton seal is impervious to the new fuels. They will be very dark blue, consistant thickness, and pretty rigid (garter spring required). If the blue seal is lighter blue, thin lip, and/or "soft", it's not going to hold up.....Cliff
Even so, most of this comes from the fact that their old rubber pump seals are near the end of their life cycle. New rubber is very soft, and in contact with this new fuel fails immediately. Rubber that's been in service for a while is much harder, and resists swelling in contact with the new fuel. Eventually, however, it will crack/break.
The best quality Viton seal is impervious to the new fuels. They will be very dark blue, consistant thickness, and pretty rigid (garter spring required). If the blue seal is lighter blue, thin lip, and/or "soft", it's not going to hold up.....Cliff
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...t-quality.html
Here are e10 related problems encountered by The Carburetor Shop.
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Ethanoluse.htm
There have been studies (some by universities) that focus mainly on the enleanment issues, but mainly for carbed engines.
A look at major fuel suppliers sites and they do recommend fuel stabilizers for long term storage although their recommendations is keeping a tank 95% full. This may help the OP.
From Chevron
GENERAL STORAGE RECOMMENDATIONS
Three precautions will delay the deterioration of gasoline:
Fill containers about 95% full.
Cap containers tightly.
Store containers out of direct sunlight in a location where the temperature stays below 80°F most of the time (a vehicle or piece of equipment with gasoline in the fuel tank may be stored in direct sunlight as long as the tank is shaded from the sun).
The first two actions reduce the evaporation of gasoline during storage and reduce the exposure of gasoline to air and water vapor. (See Background Information section.) The 5% air space allows room for the liquid gasoline to expand if its temperature rises.
If weather or storage conditions will keep the gasoline warmer than 80°F much of the time, add a fuel stabilizer additive to the gasoline. Fuel stabilizer additives are available at auto supply stores and some service stations and convenience stores. Follow the label directions. The best mixing is achieved when the stabilizer is added to the container before it is filled with gasoline. The stabilizer will work only if it is added to fresh gasoline; it can’t fix gasoline that has started to deteriorate.
Federal and California reformulated gasolines will survive storage as well or better than conventional gasoline.
Adding oil to gasoline doesn't change its stability. Gasoline-oil mixtures for two-stroke-cycle engines will survive storage as well as gasoline itself.
Note: The volatility of gasoline is tailored for the range of temperatures expected in the locality where it is sold. Engines fueled with "summer gasoline" may be more difficult to start in cold weather. (See Volatility section.)
Three precautions will delay the deterioration of gasoline:
Fill containers about 95% full.
Cap containers tightly.
Store containers out of direct sunlight in a location where the temperature stays below 80°F most of the time (a vehicle or piece of equipment with gasoline in the fuel tank may be stored in direct sunlight as long as the tank is shaded from the sun).
The first two actions reduce the evaporation of gasoline during storage and reduce the exposure of gasoline to air and water vapor. (See Background Information section.) The 5% air space allows room for the liquid gasoline to expand if its temperature rises.
If weather or storage conditions will keep the gasoline warmer than 80°F much of the time, add a fuel stabilizer additive to the gasoline. Fuel stabilizer additives are available at auto supply stores and some service stations and convenience stores. Follow the label directions. The best mixing is achieved when the stabilizer is added to the container before it is filled with gasoline. The stabilizer will work only if it is added to fresh gasoline; it can’t fix gasoline that has started to deteriorate.
Federal and California reformulated gasolines will survive storage as well or better than conventional gasoline.
Adding oil to gasoline doesn't change its stability. Gasoline-oil mixtures for two-stroke-cycle engines will survive storage as well as gasoline itself.
Note: The volatility of gasoline is tailored for the range of temperatures expected in the locality where it is sold. Engines fueled with "summer gasoline" may be more difficult to start in cold weather. (See Volatility section.)
11-04-2010, 09:54 PM
#27
Allan,
A very informative reply. Thank you. But it does not explain why my late-model Impala just keeps motoring on...? Have I missed something?
No it is not GM FlexFuel. A GM boondoggle. We do not have E85 in Canada. What were they thinking when E85 is not available here?
A very informative reply. Thank you. But it does not explain why my late-model Impala just keeps motoring on...? Have I missed something?
No it is not GM FlexFuel. A GM boondoggle. We do not have E85 in Canada. What were they thinking when E85 is not available here?
http://www.thestar.com/news/canada/article/704292
Back on topic, there's an interesting thread going on over on the NCRS board about the '63 and up tanker cars. For the non C2 crowd, these had 36 gallon FIBREGLASS tanks right behind the seats.
Lots of interesting observations and facts by industry professionals- some of the tin hat brigade here should join up get an education instead of listening to internet scare tactics.
11-04-2010, 09:57 PM
#28
Drifting
"Nobody I know with a diesel adds anything to the fuel"
NOW I think your full of
Your "DIESEL" fuel friends sound just as FOOLISH as you
They can play russian roulet with their fuel / filters jelling up if they wish but I'm ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLL set with replacing jelled up filters on the side of the road when it's 0- F degrees out 
you canuck's have a habbit of leaving your vehicles running for days on end for the fear that they wont start in the cold weather
Your "DIESEL" friends probably don't plug their block heaters in either!!!!
Hammadown
NOW I think your full of
Your "DIESEL" fuel friends sound just as FOOLISH as you
They can play russian roulet with their fuel / filters jelling up if they wish but I'm ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLL set with replacing jelled up filters on the side of the road when it's 0- F degrees out you canuck's have a habbit of leaving your vehicles running for days on end for the fear that they wont start in the cold weather
Your "DIESEL" friends probably don't plug their block heaters in either!!!!
Hammadown
Yep, being on the side with a big truck frozen up ain't no fun in 0 degree weather. Been there, done that.
11-04-2010, 10:11 PM
#29
Drifting
one question - why did Edelbrock sell an E85 carb not long ago? Also, here is a warning by Edelbrock:
ATTENTION: EDELBROCK CARBURETORS ARE NOT CALIBRATED FOR OR COMPATIBLE WITH ALCOHOL RACE FUEL OR E85 PUMP FUEL.
USE OF ALCOHOL OR E85 IN YOUR EDELBROCK CARBURETOR WILL DAMAGE YOUR CARBURETOR AND VOID YOUR WARRANTY. THESE
FUELS CAN ALSO DAMAGE OTHER FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR USE WITH ALCOHOL FUELS.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1404.pdf
ATTENTION: EDELBROCK CARBURETORS ARE NOT CALIBRATED FOR OR COMPATIBLE WITH ALCOHOL RACE FUEL OR E85 PUMP FUEL.
USE OF ALCOHOL OR E85 IN YOUR EDELBROCK CARBURETOR WILL DAMAGE YOUR CARBURETOR AND VOID YOUR WARRANTY. THESE
FUELS CAN ALSO DAMAGE OTHER FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR USE WITH ALCOHOL FUELS.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1404.pdf
11-04-2010, 10:35 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
I know this thread is not about diesel .......
.but I was in a DISCUSSION with Mike, ABOUT diesel's.
OKAY.................
let's get this back on target...........the original question was:"gasoline additive for ethanol PROTECTION"?
and my answer was: use STAR-TRON because it is formulated to eliminate the problems with ethanol gas when it ages and even for poor running conditions. BUT............just like any additive, the product has to be into the system for a few miles for the product to start working
The key word here is "protection". for $4.99 he can have piece-of-mind that if he was to leave his car stored for a few more years longer than he planned, he knows that the fuel in his FUEL SYSTEM is treated and he should have no problems............ come time to get it back on the road
A fact of life is that NOBODY knows what is going to happen to them tommorow........much less a few months from now
but if more time goes bye that the fuel sits, why not feel good to know that you won't have to worry about the gas!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How many people ask a question about how to DEAL with the old,stale,varnished fuel in the fuel system of the GREAT new to them corvette of their dreams???????
I can recount quite a few...............but if the seller of the car had just dropped a can of STABILIZER in the tank the new guy wouldn't have to deal with all the problems old fuel does to a fuel system.
I keep saying system because after all we are talking about more than the "gas" tank. it starts at the gas tank then the lines then the fuel pump ,back into the fuel line and then into the carb and old fuel just isn't fun to deal with
So............. what I guess I am trying to say is that if the original question was PROTECTION from pregnancy I would advise him to use a condom
Wouldn't you do the same????
Hammadown
.but I was in a DISCUSSION with Mike, ABOUT diesel's. OKAY.................
let's get this back on target...........the original question was:"gasoline additive for ethanol PROTECTION"?and my answer was: use STAR-TRON because it is formulated to eliminate the problems with ethanol gas when it ages and even for poor running conditions. BUT............just like any additive, the product has to be into the system for a few miles for the product to start working
The key word here is "protection". for $4.99 he can have piece-of-mind that if he was to leave his car stored for a few more years longer than he planned, he knows that the fuel in his FUEL SYSTEM is treated and he should have no problems............ come time to get it back on the road
A fact of life is that NOBODY knows what is going to happen to them tommorow........much less a few months from now
but if more time goes bye that the fuel sits, why not feel good to know that you won't have to worry about the gas!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How many people ask a question about how to DEAL with the old,stale,varnished fuel in the fuel system of the GREAT new to them corvette of their dreams???????
I can recount quite a few...............but if the seller of the car had just dropped a can of STABILIZER in the tank the new guy wouldn't have to deal with all the problems old fuel does to a fuel system.
I keep saying system because after all we are talking about more than the "gas" tank. it starts at the gas tank then the lines then the fuel pump ,back into the fuel line and then into the carb
and old fuel just isn't fun to deal with So............. what I guess I am trying to say is that if the original question was PROTECTION from pregnancy I would advise him to use a condom
Wouldn't you do the same????
Hammadown
Last edited by hammadown; 11-04-2010 at 10:38 PM.
