1st Vette! C3 maintenance questions
05-12-2010, 10:12 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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1st Vette! C3 maintenance questions
Before I get into my first Vette and at that, a 35 year old or so car, I wanted to poke around and get feedback on the general/routine maintenance I should expect.
Please share what are your biggest hassles, what are routine things to keep up on, etc. Any/all information would help! FYI, I do not know (yet) how to work on cars and this Vette would be for weekends and fun outings. Nothing crazy with the car, but I want to make sure I have the full picture before I invest.
Also, I admit I checked out newer (and I agree, a completely different car)C6 Vettes, but my gut is telling me to go with my first love, a C3.Tomorrow, I am looking at a 1975 convert, stick, matching car.
Thanks for your feedback in advance!!!
Please share what are your biggest hassles, what are routine things to keep up on, etc. Any/all information would help! FYI, I do not know (yet) how to work on cars and this Vette would be for weekends and fun outings. Nothing crazy with the car, but I want to make sure I have the full picture before I invest.
Also, I admit I checked out newer (and I agree, a completely different car)C6 Vettes, but my gut is telling me to go with my first love, a C3.Tomorrow, I am looking at a 1975 convert, stick, matching car.
Thanks for your feedback in advance!!!
05-13-2010, 05:49 AM
#2
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St. Jude Donor '10
I'm in the same boat (car), as I just bought a '78 last week. First Vette for me.
I ordered a reprint of the owner's manual and a service assembly manual yesterday, and am looking for the AIM shop manual but no luck yet.
I've only done routine stuff on cars many years ago, so this is back to the future for me! Recapturing my youth? Maybe.
I'm subscribing to your thread as I know you'll get a lot of good replies and I'll be reading every one of them for expert advice.
Good luck with the '75 convert!
Bob
I ordered a reprint of the owner's manual and a service assembly manual yesterday, and am looking for the AIM shop manual but no luck yet.
I've only done routine stuff on cars many years ago, so this is back to the future for me! Recapturing my youth? Maybe.
I'm subscribing to your thread as I know you'll get a lot of good replies and I'll be reading every one of them for expert advice.
Good luck with the '75 convert!
Bob
05-13-2010, 08:30 AM
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05-13-2010, 08:37 AM
#4
Team Owner
If you buy a '75 [or later] C3 it will have HEI ignition which does NOT have ignition points that need to be changed out/adjusted. When you get a car, immediately have the engine oil/filter, transmission oil [& filter if automatic], and differential fluid changed out. After that, you just need to change engine oil/filter and luge it every 3000 miles or so.
Fixing the 'incidental' things that are broken/will break and keeping it looking nice are where the time/effort and money will be spent.
Fixing the 'incidental' things that are broken/will break and keeping it looking nice are where the time/effort and money will be spent.
05-13-2010, 09:01 AM
#5
Race Director
There are a number of things that wear, break or need attention, and are pretty much common to all 68-82 Vettes.
The brake calipers are number 1. Leaking calipers are very common with all 65-82s. Originally the caliper pistons were bored into the cast iron caliper and started rusting, pitting and leaking pretty quickly. Todays replacement calipers are usually sleeved with stainless steel which eliminates the pitting, but the seals will still leak with age.
Rear trailing arm bearings go bad and usually need replacing at some point. This is a job that has to be done by someone who has a press and knows what they're doing.
Rusted, non-functioning parking brakes are typical.
Leaking power steering slave cylinder and control valve is common with PS equiped cars.
Changing plugs is best done from under the car, especially on cars with AC.
Mid 70's Corvettes were prone to breaking the main leaf in the rear spring. By now though, most that were going to break have and have been replaced.
Tilt/Tele columns will get sloppy with age.
75 urethane bumpers (as well as 73 & 74s) were made from a compound that tended to dry out and become brittle with age. It's not uncommon to walk into the garage and find pieces of the bumper laying on the floor. Original urethane 75 rear bumpers are almost impossible to find.
Beyond that, most other maintenance items would be the same as on any other car, universal joints, rubber bushings, radiators and heater cores, etc.
Though it's been beaten to death over the years on the Forum, it still doesn't hurt to mention rust once again. When buying a Vette, check the frame (especially in the area of the rear kick ups) the trailing arms and the windshield posts and cowl area for rust. On 76-82s, you need to check the floors for rust, also (75 and earlier cars have fiberglass floors).
Rust in any of these areas can be difficult and expensive ($1,500-$2,000 for the windshield post/cowl area) to repair properly.
The brake calipers are number 1. Leaking calipers are very common with all 65-82s. Originally the caliper pistons were bored into the cast iron caliper and started rusting, pitting and leaking pretty quickly. Todays replacement calipers are usually sleeved with stainless steel which eliminates the pitting, but the seals will still leak with age.
Rear trailing arm bearings go bad and usually need replacing at some point. This is a job that has to be done by someone who has a press and knows what they're doing.
Rusted, non-functioning parking brakes are typical.
Leaking power steering slave cylinder and control valve is common with PS equiped cars.
Changing plugs is best done from under the car, especially on cars with AC.
Mid 70's Corvettes were prone to breaking the main leaf in the rear spring. By now though, most that were going to break have and have been replaced.
Tilt/Tele columns will get sloppy with age.
75 urethane bumpers (as well as 73 & 74s) were made from a compound that tended to dry out and become brittle with age. It's not uncommon to walk into the garage and find pieces of the bumper laying on the floor. Original urethane 75 rear bumpers are almost impossible to find.
Beyond that, most other maintenance items would be the same as on any other car, universal joints, rubber bushings, radiators and heater cores, etc.
Though it's been beaten to death over the years on the Forum, it still doesn't hurt to mention rust once again. When buying a Vette, check the frame (especially in the area of the rear kick ups) the trailing arms and the windshield posts and cowl area for rust. On 76-82s, you need to check the floors for rust, also (75 and earlier cars have fiberglass floors).
Rust in any of these areas can be difficult and expensive ($1,500-$2,000 for the windshield post/cowl area) to repair properly.
05-13-2010, 09:09 AM
#6
Drifting
you will also need to look at the brakes. C3 calipers tend to leak if the car has been sitting for a long amount of time. as for what you will need to replace....... well that all depends on the work the previous owner has done to the car. Most rubber seals and the like are probably hard and will need to be replaced. but this is not something that has to be done at once. Basically I agree with 7T1 Vette change out the fluids and enjoy and fix and or restore as needed and as your budget will allow. the main thing is learn how to do it yourself. You will save a lot of money and it is a very rewarding experience.
05-13-2010, 09:44 AM
#7
Team Owner
I am presently on my second C3, I purchased it in August of 2008. Aside from oil changes, wash and wax type of stuff, here is a complete list of the things that have kept my hands and credit cards busy to date:
1. Install missing front spoiler (9/08)
2, Replace thermostat (9/08)
3. Replace faulty starter motor wiring and solenoid (11/08)
4. Replace soft top weather stripping (12/08)
5, Replace missing driver's side seat bolts (2/09)
6. Repair door locks (2/09)
7. Repair window cranks (2/09)
8. Replace carburetor (8/09)
9. Replace driver's side high beam (10/09)
10. Repair broken door pull (10/09)
11. Restore glove compartment lock/round key ability (11/09)
12. Install/replace roof guide bushings (11/09)
13. Restore spare tire capability (11/09)
14. Replace weather stripping on hard top (1/10)
15. Rebuild emergency brake (5/10)
That may sound like a lot of repairs, but the reality is that all of the above except #10 were issues the car had when I bought it. Also, some of these are pretty trivial, like #12 cost me about $5, and took about 5 minutes to remove the one I had and install two new ones. The restoring the spare tire capability was the most expensive of the above, about $800 all in for tub, cover, wheel, tire, jack, wrench, and mounting hardware for the tub. That was also the most costly in time as when I got under the car to replace the tub, I learned why a previous owner had decided to go without the spare, and it took me quite some time to correct that situation.
I still have a list of things I would like to correct, and one item that broke while I have owned it (I suspect it is a vacuum can under my dash) that needs to be fixed. I think of having the car as a "hobby", and much of the time I spend on my hobby is spent repairing/improving the car. That is fine with me because I enjoy that. If you don't enjoy working on cars, I recommend you think carefully before buying a 35 year old car, no matter what kind of 35 year old car you are thinking of buying.
1. Install missing front spoiler (9/08)
2, Replace thermostat (9/08)
3. Replace faulty starter motor wiring and solenoid (11/08)
4. Replace soft top weather stripping (12/08)
5, Replace missing driver's side seat bolts (2/09)
6. Repair door locks (2/09)
7. Repair window cranks (2/09)
8. Replace carburetor (8/09)
9. Replace driver's side high beam (10/09)
10. Repair broken door pull (10/09)
11. Restore glove compartment lock/round key ability (11/09)
12. Install/replace roof guide bushings (11/09)
13. Restore spare tire capability (11/09)
14. Replace weather stripping on hard top (1/10)
15. Rebuild emergency brake (5/10)
That may sound like a lot of repairs, but the reality is that all of the above except #10 were issues the car had when I bought it. Also, some of these are pretty trivial, like #12 cost me about $5, and took about 5 minutes to remove the one I had and install two new ones. The restoring the spare tire capability was the most expensive of the above, about $800 all in for tub, cover, wheel, tire, jack, wrench, and mounting hardware for the tub. That was also the most costly in time as when I got under the car to replace the tub, I learned why a previous owner had decided to go without the spare, and it took me quite some time to correct that situation.
I still have a list of things I would like to correct, and one item that broke while I have owned it (I suspect it is a vacuum can under my dash) that needs to be fixed. I think of having the car as a "hobby", and much of the time I spend on my hobby is spent repairing/improving the car. That is fine with me because I enjoy that. If you don't enjoy working on cars, I recommend you think carefully before buying a 35 year old car, no matter what kind of 35 year old car you are thinking of buying.
05-13-2010, 12:24 PM
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St. Jude Donor '10
The one I bought had been in a barn for two years and started up periodically, according to the owner.
The gas tank shows 3/4 full. Do I need to be real **** about draining the tank and filling with fresh gas, or just put an additive in the current gas and drive until empty?
The gas tank shows 3/4 full. Do I need to be real **** about draining the tank and filling with fresh gas, or just put an additive in the current gas and drive until empty?
05-13-2010, 01:10 PM
#9
Instructor
I was in the same boat several years ago when I first bought my 75. Main thing, remain calm. Things WILL break, sometimes with scary consequences. I have had 2 fires in my engine compartment and even that was no big deal. Learning about these cars and fixing them is the best part and makes the drive so much more rewarding. Good luck
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C3_DH (01-27-2020)
05-13-2010, 01:12 PM
#10
Team Owner
The one I bought had been in a barn for two years and started up periodically, according to the owner.
The gas tank shows 3/4 full. Do I need to be real **** about draining the tank and filling with fresh gas, or just put an additive in the current gas and drive until empty?
The gas tank shows 3/4 full. Do I need to be real **** about draining the tank and filling with fresh gas, or just put an additive in the current gas and drive until empty?
A fuel stabilizer is supposed to prevent degradation of the fuel, not correct it once it has happened. If it was me, I would probably siphon out as much as I practically could, then refill the tank and drive. The question then becomes what to do with the fuel you siphoned out. I would probably mix it in with my piece-of-crap lawnmower's fuel.
05-13-2010, 01:58 PM
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St. Jude Donor '10
A fuel stabilizer is supposed to prevent degradation of the fuel, not correct it once it has happened. If it was me, I would probably siphon out as much as I practically could, then refill the tank and drive. The question then becomes what to do with the fuel you siphoned out. I would probably mix it in with my piece-of-crap lawnmower's fuel.
Sounds like a plan!
05-13-2010, 07:11 PM
#12
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There are a number of things that wear, break or need attention, and are pretty much common to all 68-82 Vettes.
The brake calipers are number 1. Leaking calipers are very common with all 65-82s. Originally the caliper pistons were bored into the cast iron caliper and started rusting, pitting and leaking pretty quickly. Todays replacement calipers are usually sleeved with stainless steel which eliminates the pitting, but the seals will still leak with age.
Rear trailing arm bearings go bad and usually need replacing at some point. This is a job that has to be done by someone who has a press and knows what they're doing.
Rusted, non-functioning parking brakes are typical.
Leaking power steering slave cylinder and control valve is common with PS equiped cars.
Changing plugs is best done from under the car, especially on cars with AC.
Mid 70's Corvettes were prone to breaking the main leaf in the rear spring. By now though, most that were going to break have and have been replaced.
Tilt/Tele columns will get sloppy with age.
75 urethane bumpers (as well as 73 & 74s) were made from a compound that tended to dry out and become brittle with age. It's not uncommon to walk into the garage and find pieces of the bumper laying on the floor. Original urethane 75 rear bumpers are almost impossible to find.
Beyond that, most other maintenance items would be the same as on any other car, universal joints, rubber bushings, radiators and heater cores, etc.
Though it's been beaten to death over the years on the Forum, it still doesn't hurt to mention rust once again. When buying a Vette, check the frame (especially in the area of the rear kick ups) the trailing arms and the windshield posts and cowl area for rust. On 76-82s, you need to check the floors for rust, also (75 and earlier cars have fiberglass floors).
Rust in any of these areas can be difficult and expensive ($1,500-$2,000 for the windshield post/cowl area) to repair properly.
The brake calipers are number 1. Leaking calipers are very common with all 65-82s. Originally the caliper pistons were bored into the cast iron caliper and started rusting, pitting and leaking pretty quickly. Todays replacement calipers are usually sleeved with stainless steel which eliminates the pitting, but the seals will still leak with age.
Rear trailing arm bearings go bad and usually need replacing at some point. This is a job that has to be done by someone who has a press and knows what they're doing.
Rusted, non-functioning parking brakes are typical.
Leaking power steering slave cylinder and control valve is common with PS equiped cars.
Changing plugs is best done from under the car, especially on cars with AC.
Mid 70's Corvettes were prone to breaking the main leaf in the rear spring. By now though, most that were going to break have and have been replaced.
Tilt/Tele columns will get sloppy with age.
75 urethane bumpers (as well as 73 & 74s) were made from a compound that tended to dry out and become brittle with age. It's not uncommon to walk into the garage and find pieces of the bumper laying on the floor. Original urethane 75 rear bumpers are almost impossible to find.
Beyond that, most other maintenance items would be the same as on any other car, universal joints, rubber bushings, radiators and heater cores, etc.
Though it's been beaten to death over the years on the Forum, it still doesn't hurt to mention rust once again. When buying a Vette, check the frame (especially in the area of the rear kick ups) the trailing arms and the windshield posts and cowl area for rust. On 76-82s, you need to check the floors for rust, also (75 and earlier cars have fiberglass floors).
Rust in any of these areas can be difficult and expensive ($1,500-$2,000 for the windshield post/cowl area) to repair properly.
I bought a '75 two weeks ago. Were you in my garage? You nailed it. Although mild issues right now...I have all of these. You are good. Thnx and wow!
05-13-2010, 09:37 PM
#13
Race Director
buy a set of the longest needle nose pliers you can find.. you wont ever regret them when working on a C3.
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C3_DH (01-27-2020)
01-26-2020, 09:22 AM
#14
Racer
Very nice '73 Jwood! You will enjoy driving it ...if you don't take too many things apart at once. Since that car doesn't look like it needs a restoration 
as part of your big game plan I would suggest not to take things apart that would disable driving for more than two weeks at a time, fix a problem and drive it, rinse and repeat. And stay focused on and complete one problem at a time. It's very easy to say, well while I'm waiting on the new radiator I can take this front end apart, and then I can get to that broken exhaust manifold bolt etc... and look back years later and see that you only drove it the first week you had it! Lots of help here, you'll do well!
Oh, and replace those rubber fuel lines now!
as part of your big game plan I would suggest not to take things apart that would disable driving for more than two weeks at a time, fix a problem and drive it, rinse and repeat. And stay focused on and complete one problem at a time. It's very easy to say, well while I'm waiting on the new radiator I can take this front end apart, and then I can get to that broken exhaust manifold bolt etc... and look back years later and see that you only drove it the first week you had it! Lots of help here, you'll do well!Oh, and replace those rubber fuel lines now!
Last edited by slofut; 01-26-2020 at 09:24 AM.
