PainfullySlow

I have been fortunate in the past that my career paid well enough that I never really bothered with bargain hunting. Not because I do not value my $, but because I simply did not have the time to invest in looking for those great deals.

My situation has done a complete 180 and now I have far less income but a lot more time on my hands. I still have enough $ to toss at a project if I care to but now that I have the ability to do some digging, why should I do that?

This is more about the philosophy of how people secure parts for their cars. There are plenty here that 'no expense spared' would be an accurate description, while there are others who are restricted to a severe budget and have to 'make do'. Neither method is right or wrong, I am just curious how YOU decide where to get your parts and how much to pay for them?

I guess I am falling somewhere in the middle of that. I now have the time to hunt around for deals and so I am choosing not to toss $ around that I do not have to.

I set myself a budget that I did not want to cross when doing my c3 project and every time I score a deal, it basically means that I have more $ to spend on some other part of the build.

I spend where it is wise to do so but I am actually enjoying the 'hunting for deals' part of the build...it is almost like a game to me.

The13Bats

I was in the night club music biz, actually have a big show this sat but its small potatoes now as in volume of shows i do,

But money didnt matter In 88 89 i learned a both costly and valuable lession about myself and how i think and feel,

I started an 81 wide body restoration
I hate to even now call it "no expense spared" but it was, i was at the club all the time and hired a fellow to finish tge build

The car was a beast, a real overbuilt show queen and i immediately knew i mucked up,
It wasnt fun anymore, not what i wanted,
I sold it to a leo i worked with and bought a 66 driver, modded car patina and all,

Your question, I like hunting a good part at a good price,
Im not someone who is a look at me what i can spend attention *****,
In fact i find it embarrassing in a way,

I see guys with all the tall money most lack any humility and seem to sadly waste lots of money on parts that wont fit, and have to get bailed out of over their head projects, im not one of them,

I love the hunt for a bargain, likely the same way a purist has passion hunting that perfect original part he must have,

I see more and more guys on here trying to spend their toad pelts wisely,
Why spend 3 times as much for a part that does the same thing,

Im too ADD OCD etc to even allow myself to feel like i not only didnt get screwed buying something but i have to feel like i got a great deal, its just me,

I paid 125 for a press molded air box l88 hood
400 for ecklers new in box front clip with new inner fenders tossed in,
25 for chrome bumper etc

Happy with deals like that but even though it was on sale i hate that in a momentary lapse of reason i bought a name brand radiator,

Sure there are a few weird hard to find parts i would have to ante up for or miss out, but i like paying 12 bucks for something i see a guy pay 550 for...

( yes, really happened )

oldgto

Married 34 years, raising 4 boys with a "stay at home" wife REQUIRES me to be on a budget. I`m fortunate enough to have a fair amount of "play money" after the bills are paid and family needs are met..... AND an old car nut for a wife. So we have built a few cars over the years, with new parts at regular prices, and a few good used parts from swap meets thrown in as well. But it has been done a couple hundred per payday. For more expensive items, we may have to wait a few weeks and save up. So a couple cars have taken many years to complete, but it`s a hobby for us, and the whole family is involved.

DUB

I can say that I do not look at the cost for a part. I am more concerned that the part is what I need and will be the best to do the job. IF I take time out of my day to hunt parts for peoples cars to save them a few bucks..and it take half my day in doing so....I am loosing my backside. I am not saying I do not make a few phone calls...but doing this as long as I have... I already have it set up with many places that sell Corvette parts (new and used) on whose parts I buy from.

Knowing what part to buy is important when you ahve different design differences...and NOT thinking that ALL of the parts are the same...because they are not in many cases. So looking at the less expensive part in some cases is not wise and in some scenarios it is just fine.

If a customer is budget minded. I have had several that freak out over spending $5 more on a part from one supplier....but seem to forget that if they bought less expensive part from the vendor who is selling it for less...they are gettign stuck with the added shipping cost. SO...when that happens. I let them get what they want and spend their time on it.

DUB

Norm07

I recently started on my 71 convertible project. It is a low optioned low HP car that needs a total restoration. I, like you have the time but the $$$$ are a big consideration. I paid what I feel was top dollar in order to get the car in the first place. I decided I had to be realistic on my expectations for the finished product. It was not going to be NCRS quality but an original driver. I wanted to stay away from the "Bubba" method, do things properly and not take a lifetime(or what's left of mine) to finish it.

I found I could buy anything I needed out of a catalogue but there is no way I could justify or afford that.

I search the want ads, locally, Craig's List and this forum for parts....but...buyer beware! You have to know exactly what you are buying keeping in mind the fit, numbers correct date codes model numbers etc... my experience has been people will sell you anything, again, buyer beware...and I am excluding selling members of this forum who I find are straight up and knowledgable.

From my experience if I am buying used parts....ignition components, covers, interior pieces etc..I buy items that are near perfect condition. I have learned not to be in a rush...it never fails...I find an item, think I need it right away and it's in so so condition and a couple weeks later I find a better one or a better one cheaper. I now consider putting the old part back on (if it's practical) live with it for the time being and wait til I find a good used piece at a reasonable price

And last, I am careful where I purchase my new parts, especially suspension and engine components. I do my research, look around at various on line suppliers. I find that I can get some pretty good deals with sales or percent off.

I am very fortunate because I have the tools and the ability (or so I think) to do most of the work myself, a huge savings.

My 2 cents.

Torqued Off

I think that for one you need to try to build the car well, make it reliable and something you can be proud of. That does not mean you just have to spend money on the most expensive parts. You have to analyze each choice, and make the correct choices. Sometime, for me that meant spending money......like, buying a completely new wiring harness for the car, despite the $1000 tag. Looking for bargains on used harnesses, or patching something together for me was not an option. On the other hand, use as many of the parts that you paid for when you bought the car that can be well restored....it is not necessary to just starting throwing away old parts and replace them with new. Steel parts that are not rusted can be blasted and powdercoated, and they will be better restored than when GM built the car. Obviously any rubber parts, like suspension bushings, hoses, etc should be replaced with new.

So, its a matter of careful thought and planning for each individual component, making the right choices for each to end up with a good quality rebuild, and at a reasonable price. Remember though, its not going to be inexpensive, but it will produce a high quality and reliable car, which was my goal....assuming you want to drive it. Otherwise, if its going to be a garage queen or museum piece, it only needs to "look" good, not necessarily be quality.

Faster Rat

At first I threw my wallet at it. In the last few years, I have been working at Dave Walter's shop in exchange for parts and rebuilding services. He is one of the top Bloomington judges and under his guidance, anything worth doing is worth doing right. Unfortunately that philosophy comes at a price. There has to be an end in sight somewhere. I just haven't found it yet.

kanvasman

I am building a 78 restomod with a TPI engine and 200R4 trans. I refuse to total up my receipts, but everything I am doing is with my mad money. No food or mortgage $$$. In the 3 years I have been doing this ebay has become my friend but Dub said it perfectly above when he said KNOW WHAT YOU NEED TO BUY. I have a small shelf with parts that I bough but didn't need. Either I bought them early on in the project, then directions changed, or I bought the wrong part. Regular headers, that was one of the first things I got a great deal on. Two years later by the time I had refined my design, I had angle plug heads and the regular headers didn't work. I sold them, but lost a little bit. I would suggest that you don't buy, either on the bay or from our great vendors, too far ahead.

PainfullySlow

Some great insight here all, thanks for sharing! Keep it up!

I too have been looking in different places for those deals but I refuse to compromise on quality. Some thing I will simply not buy used (or even new from places like craigslist because you never know) like internal engine components. Those have to be new, in a box, from a reputable source.

I scored a killer deal on a set of used heads with supposedly only 2 hours of run time on them...those are getting all new parts, only keeping the castings. Reliability to me is more important than saving a little money...in this case I was able to do both but I would never feel comfortable with used pistons or a camshaft, etc.

I picked up today a set of wheels that I REALLY wanted for $175...My budget for them was $1200. That savings basically will allow me to do the T56 conversion that I want to do. I had to drive 4 hours each way to get them but it is a perfect example of how using my time rather than $ will meet my goal.

I guess I have this weird internal gauge of what is acceptable used and what is not.

In the end, I want to have a kickass car that I can be proud of. If I can save a few bucks along the way without compromising that goal then I will call it a success.

lowbuck72

I am not wealthy and cannot afford throw money at anything. I watch every buck. I do everything myself. I bought my C3 without a motor or trans. I went to pic a part on half price day and bought a complete 2 bolt 350 out of something or other for under $200. I put about $500 in it to rebuild it, the power steering pump is on the wrong side and I don't care. I buy used parts, often make brackets and hard parts myself. I have less in my car than most have in paint. But I have 4 other classics restored the same way. All clean presentable drivers. It's just the way I am.

Everybody says these cars are money pits. But you're the one who chooses how big a shovel you're digging it with. I use a spoon.

BLUE1972

I won't cut costs or quality on drive train parts, tires, brakes and suspension parts - this can kill you and cause great damage if they fail.

The rest is fun. I do a lot of swap meets and friends. Sometimes we trade - as I can fix a lot of things others can't.

Sometimes it's as much fun as the rebuild - shopping for parts and rebuilding them.

I'm not doing it for a living so time invested is not important for me.

If I was doing it for a lining - buy the best and save time. No recalls due to failed parts.

doorgunner

It's probably been said before, but.....buy quality CHROME.....toss ideas out to Forum members on who sells the best quality parts whether visible chrome or (UN)visible u-joints.
Put the money where it counts the most.

Richard454

EXACTLY- Kanvasman via Dub- "Know what you need to buy!!!




With the internet these days- you can basically figure out the going price of a part- from completed sales on eBay- several different vendors and even the parts for sale section here.

So when I buy- I pretty much know what kind of deal I am getting.

IF you are buying from an unknown- spend a few minutes researching- a really good way is google their email address and "problem" - that'll tell you if you need to run away.


Craigslist is a wild card- but I did by a 71 stock hood in excellent shape for well under a $100...


Think out of the box when you are buying-

A lot of times the seller is wanting to get rid of a bunch of stuff cheap- and you want just one piece- go ahead and buy the lot- then give the pieces away cheaply on the forum. It comes out cheaper, takes some time BUT everybody is happy!!!

I needed only 12 coil pacs- ended up buying a lot of 50- after I sold what I didn't need - the coils actually made me money..to spend on other parts!!!

And when I decided on the engine I was going to swap- I bought the whole wrecked car!!! Car cost $1200- sold the transmission for $400 and the cats for $350.. Throttle bodies for $400 ...brakes for $250... a bunch of other parts then what was left over to the scrapyard for $250!!!



And the junkyard- I'm doing an off the wall restomod- I'll go to the junkyard and find all sorts of stuff cheap.

$1200 money maker-




This is all I wanted...



And all the money I saved-

made it look like this-

20mercury

I am always looking everywhere for C3 parts, being a "parts hound" for great deals is part of the fun of ownership I think.

However, sometimes on ebay, you have to wade through stuff like this though:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2xGenuine-A...xaAV-~&vxp=mtr

I started to send the seller a message and ask if he REALLY thinks this belongs on a 1968 Corvette, but a waste of time I am sure!

doorgunner

LOL 20 Mercury! It was a factory option in Bei Jing

stingraymaniac

I went all in this year with mine, the bank is happy with me now...
I've always wanted a stroker engine, really happy now but it wasn't cheap

The13Bats

Im not one of those "everybodies"
I see it far more like you do, im just not as good at it as you are, but im working on that,

I also see the type cat who likes to boast and brag how much he spent as to him its a status thing and in his mind makes his build better and him Cooler,
Not to me,

Mike,
I am not sure i agree a used head if not property checked is any less risky than any other engine or for that matter suspension part, or even a wheel,
Cracks flaws whatever can and do hide from human eyes,

For example a want an old muncie trans,

If one guy says his has been gone through by a reputable trans guy is rebuilt and ready to go, it has its paperwork and that to me a 99% safe bet,
And the price will be up there, not a bargain.

Next guy bought say a 69 to part out that sat 20 30 years,
He pulled the trans of unknown history or condition cleans it up and pulls the side cover, says some trans guy said his pictures looked okay,

That to me is a huge gamble and price should reflect that gamble, most times it wont and i move on. If its a bargain i might jump knowing the risks of such a part.

Btw, i thiught you got a great deal on the wheels, i simple will not buy new wheels,
2 real ansen slots less than 100, 15 x 10...condition 7 or 8 of 10 and ill polish them myself,

Torqued Off

One other factor I could point out as I read through the thread. You can spend hours, days and months looking for used parts and save some money,......but don't forget, you spent hours, days, and months.. If your hobby focus is on building, then this is all fine, but for me, I spent 4-1/2 years completing rebuilding my car, and that was long enough. It was time to drive. I could have saved big dollars by stripping the car and trying to paint it myself, but it would have been another two years, not to mention an orange colored garage.

So, this is all part of the overall equation as well. Time, and how much do you have to spend on saving money. And do you want to drive the car? There are probably more Corvettes in non-driveable condition, or in process of rebuilding, than there are well rebuilt Corvettes on the road. Then there are the museum garage queens. This forum is full of half built cars.

Obviously, there is no right or wrong about this, but you asked.

The13Bats

Price of parts or bargain hunting isnt holding me up as much as health bs
And life,

And like in your case no wipers, no ps,
All ac heat stuff gutted, headlights you open by hand, etc
Lots of builders wouldnt consider that an opition but its how you wanted it and it saved a pile of time work and money to do that your way,

Oldgto has a 10k plus paint job he did himself, i dont think it took all that long and his shop isnt grey,

Builds are super different person to person

Torqued Off

That might have worked for him, but I doubt that I could have applied the same paint job on my car as the guy I paid to do it. I am simply not a body-man or painter,....although I believe I could have made it pretty nice.

But there is no doubt that it would have taken me another year minimum, if not the two years I said. Its simply a ton of work. And at that point in the process, I was ready to get on with putting the car on the road.

One thing you have to realize is how perfect I demanded it to be. Every peak line was to meet perfectly and not be a rounded off peak. Those fender lines need to be a continuous perfect line, front bumper to rear bumper, every ripple removed, every door gap perfect, all the acceptable production flaws removed. With a fiberglass production car like this Corvette, the body lines are complex and GM accepted imperfections that I do not.

What cost me most was getting both the TruFlex bumpers lined up and molded in perfectly, and it took tons of labor to do that. I would never use then again...I would use NON Flex bumpers and buld them up on the inside so they are as rigid as the body of the car. I am still not satisfied with them because they have ripples, and I have issue on rear left side that the peak line is off. Most wouldn't see it, but I do.

I even went to the car when it was in primer, and inspected it, made them do better, but still missed some of the flaws.

To be honest, my expensive paint job is STILL not perfect enough for me, and I have more work the painter is going to do....which will just cost me more.

So, in some ways, I wish I would have taken on the bodywork myself because as much as I paid the painter, and as much as I demanded it from him, and he agreed, it is still not perfect enough. I try to ignore it, but that rear left bumper to fender line has to be fixed.

And as for the orange garage.....keeping overspray and smell out of the attached garage and house would have required building a huge booth in the small garage I have, and it still would not work. I have been there before and no matter what you do, it fails. I think GTO garage is separate from the house which is a different story. AND, as I said, even building a tent requires time and money.

My main point was people think they save money by scrounging, or doing work themselves, but they never truly include all the costs....gasoline in car traveling to swap meets and parts stores, food bought on the road, shipping costs, fixing parts takes time, maybe blasting, painting, powdercoating, and needing all the equipment to do all of this. If you truly calculated the cost, the dollar spread decreases, but we all kid ourselves it doesn.t.

And the big thing is that if you are going to scrounge and do everything, including a paint job, yourself......you are talking YEARS and YEARS of work, as many on this forum prove. I waited 40 plus years to get my car, and driving it is too important to me to have a ten year plus project. Its also a proven fact, that many cars that start dragging on, just never get done cause finally the energy runs out. You pay for it one way or the other,...nothing is free. THAT IS PROPABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT MESSAGE I COULD MAKE TO THE OP.