kaiserbud

I am doing a body off and when I re-installed my original GM T-arms, the shims I previously had went back in. I did update to Polyurethane Bushings, but as I experienced years ago the shims were a booger to get back in.

Recently, I removed the T-Arms and bought Offsets from Van Steel and they put the black polyurethane bushings in (Ecklers?) and now my shims don't fit no matter how much I throw things around... just kiddin.

So after researching on the web, I realize, all I have to do is get is close, as a final alignment is due for various reasons (all new rearend parts). And I do plan on a good alignment anyway.

I will finish installing the T-Arms tomorrow, but are there any techniques to get those dang shims in. I am lucky as the body is off. Oh - also ....anyone with pics of the cotter pin to hold the shims in?

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redman76

Did you put a 9/16" socket between the frame and the bottom of the T/A? This will set it close to ride height. I didn't have any problems getting my shims back in and I have the poly bushings too. Just a thought . . .

blue427

they sell shims(stainless) with slots,check some major venders.

wcsinx

Personally I pulled off the wheels, and jacked the hub up until the halfshaft was horizontal. Then I could push/pull on the front of the TA as much as I wanted. I did have some trouble with the Energy Suspension bushings I used because the big washers on either side of the bushing didn't really stake into the sleeve well because they only have a ~1/8" lip for a chitty interference fit. What I ended up doing was just getting all the inner stack in, then as many as I could on the outer stack, then I pounded a wood chisel down between 2 of the outer shims. That got everything seated and snugged up. Then I just yanked out the chisel and tapped in the last outer shim(s) ... easy peasy.

kaiserbud

easy peasy ... huh?

Yes - I have the wheels off (body too) and the T-arm horizontal and the front bolt already through. The shims are slotted on one end, closed hole on the other end. I like the idea of the wood 'splitter' chisel. WIll try.

But another issue I am facing... the Van Steel Offset T-arms are made of a channel design, with the 'C' part of the channel facing inwards. The Inner shims extend far enough downward (at 45 degrees ish) and to where the lower 'C' portion of the channel of the T-arm hits the shims as it travels downwards. So, if I relocate the shim to be completely below the C channel, then I believe when the T-arm rotates downward, it will be stopped by the protruding portion of the shims. It looks as though the inner shims need shortened!!!

If I rotate the shims upwards and relocate the shims to be nested within the 'C' portion of the channel
.... then I see where the shims would rotate up and down a bit with the travel of the T-arm... that does not sound right either.

any guidance?

wcsinx

Not a splitter chisel, you want something bladed with a long rectangular section so the shims spread evenly all the way down.

something like this ...



I'm having trouble visualizing your problem with the shim placement. With the shims pushed down into the pocket and the cotter pin going through them properly, there's no way for the t-arm to hit them. Let me take a picture .. brb

wcsinx

I took this picture from right beneath the frame pocket. After you pack the shims in, you need to gently tap them all down into the pocket. They should only protrude above the bottom lip of the pocket by maybe 1/4".



I don't see how your t-arm could hit the shims unless you bent the bejeezus out of it.

kaiserbud

nice job - really good of you to jump on this - let me do my share and take a pic... brb

OK _ the 4th pic down really shows the dilemna.... see how it is nested within the C channel? You can actually see where the shims have scraped against the T-Arm as I tried to rotate the T-Arm downward. It look as if your shims are much shorter and barely sticking out from the frame 'pocket'.... hmmm. I see your cotter pin as well, but I restrained mine with a plastic strap.

kaiserbud

Yeah - I think my issue is that the shims are too long.... I was checking teh AIM for torque values and noticed the length of the shim and how it allowed for a cotter key to go directly through the small hole in the frame pocket and then through the shim hole.

Ecklers SS T-Arm Shims

I was able to confirm this from your pic - thanks.... as I was wondering how a cotter key accomplished the task.

wcsinx

That's the same kit I bought from Ecklers as well. Are you sure you're getting the shim slots all the way down onto the pivot bolt? I measured my shims at 4 1/2 inches with 1 7/8 inch slots.

kaiserbud

ahh - maybe that's the difference - mine are 4 3/4" with only 1" slots

and mine are unable to rotate downward and allow a cotter pin to hold them through that little hole in the frame

glen242

I had a trailing arm shim kit from an aftermarket vendor that had incorrect thickness shims. I called the vendor and told him what I found. He said the shims were US made. He actually went into his inventory and checked the shims in question. He said I was correct, they were oversized.

I also needed 1 or 2 - 1/32" shims. None of the vendors include them in their kits, they may not be manufactured anymore. I was able to get a couple, in mild steel, from the local guy that specializes in rebuilding Corvette rear ends.

FWIW

kaiserbud

OK - I ordered the shortter shims from a local COrvette dealer and received them yesterday - will install.....

BUT - I have another Q - can anyone post pics of the installed Van Steel T-Arms? I need guidance on the routing of the brake line and Ebrake cable. It seems to put the hydraulic line into 'stressed' S position and the Ebrake cable shielding is really binded as well and still hits the inner side of teh T-Arm. btw - the cable is routed towards the T-Arm and the hydrauloic line is farther toward the inboard of the car.

kaiserbud

I called Dan at Van Steel.......

He said the shorter shims will resolve the interference issues.

Also he suggested routing the Ebrake cable towards the inner channel of the T-Arm. Then have the hydraulic brake line inboard of the Ebrake cable. He said that the Ebrake does get into a tight S shape. This is the way I had installed them - so all is well.

wcsinx

Hrmm

I wonder what those longer shims they sent you are meant for. It was my understanding that there's only 1 size of t-arm shim for C3's.

Though it doesn't surprise me at all that Ecklers screwed up your order. Fortunately for me this is one of the few things I've ordered from them that they didn't mess up. Gotta wonder how some places stay in business!

kaiserbud

well - these shims are like 20+ years old - so I guess its on me

But just to give a pic of status.....
T-Arm_Lines_Routing_1
T-Arm_Lines_Routing_2