toolman1981

I wanted to put out a list of the things I have done that have eliminated the heat in my 81. (I live in Texas)

1. Installed 2 layers of reflectix throughout the interior floor area: $20 bucks (Lowes Insulation dept)

2. Installed a Lever valve in-line on the heater hose to be closed in the summer months (original was stuck open): $10 bucks (Home Depot Plumbing section) note: hot water running through your heater core because of a stuck valve is like having your heater on all the time.

3. Replaced stock 195 degree thermostat with a 180 degree one: $8 bucks (Auto Zone)

4. Checked the rear hood seal and found mine to be hanging loose, I re-glued it: $0 bucks (had glue on hand) note: heat from under the hood will enter the car though the fresh air intake located in the wiper area.

5. Checked to make sure all the grommets on the fire wall are in good shape and sealed up correctly: $0 bucks

I went to dinner with my wife last night and she asked me if I had the air conditioner worked on.......PRICELESS


Check page 2 for updated list 4-17-09

1Fordman

I have or will have done all of the steps you took except for # 4. L-88 style hood with the bulged back edge of the hood wide open at the wiper door/cowl area. Will be great for getting engine compartment heat out but great for heat going directly into the cowl area.

rebbie23

great info!

could you throw some pics up of where you did #2?
I've seen people talk about it on here a lot but not sure where i would put what

fe1ixdakatt

What kind of valve did you use on the heater core line? I found a 3/4" solder end valve that looks like it will work but want to be sure that's the right kind before I cut the hose. My heater hose is 3/4" as well, but do I just try to slide it over the end and connect it with a hose clamp?

chstitans42

Great tips!!! Good to see another member in Texas too!

Mikey74Stingray

Yes pictures of the valve please. The top hose is 3/4"??

toolman1981

This is the lower hose

Mikey74Stingray

Ok the lower hose is 3/4" I thought the top hose looked smaller than that.

Thanks!

toolman1981

the upc codes from home depot are
032888074040 for the 3/4" valve, and
038561001761 for the 3/4" barbed fittings, 2ea.
add hose clamps and you are done.
Also here are some pics of the Reflectix, notice I went all the way up the sides of the center console.

BTAL

Here's the 3/4" valve I used from Lowes. As you can see it doesn't need the extra "bib" pipe part.

toolman1981

I like the shorter design of yours, it should be easier to possition it in a good place.

fe1ixdakatt

You guys are awesome!!!! Thanks a million.

dp1969

This looks very familiar....I am just finishing installing this material in my 69 Coupe. It was gutted so a good time to install. I used 3-M spray adhesive and just glued it to the floor. Will put carpet and padding over this when time. I also put this all the way in the back as well. Lots and lots of cutting and pasting to get all areas covered.

bhawley

I found that with just one layer plus the carpet I can barely get my foot
on the gas pedel. Do you have this problem or do I need to lose weight?

toolman1981

Now that you mention it I did have to pull the carpet and remove some layers on the tunnel next to the gas pedal. I had folded it over in this area and my size 10 1/2 shoes would not fit between the tunnel and the brake pedal. I simply pulled the carpet back and trimmed some of the excess down to a minnimum and now everything is good.

08vycpe

Great ideas. Here are a couple more:

You may also want to be sure the vents are closed all the way and sealed at the kick panels.

Be sure you have or, install a foam trans tunnel seal. You can buy one from most vendors or make one yourself. It is shown in the AIM as well. This blocks engine compartment heat from traveling down the tunnel and into the center console area.

You can buy a vacuum operated heater shutoff valve from Eckler's for $18.00. Since I only drive my car in the summer I connect the vacuum line to turn off the hot water flow. Occasionally, I remove the vacuum line to allow fresh coolant to flow through the heater core. The shutoff valve designed for the Vette doesn't restrict the flow as much as the plumbing supply ones do and isn't any more expensive. Also be sure to put the valve on the hose that is connected to the intake manifold. That is the feed and the one connected to the water pump is the return.

toolman1981

Thanks for the info on the tunnel seal, and I will check my kick pannel vents and add them both to my personal list.
Actually the valves that BTAL and I listed are much less restrictive than the factory valves. They are "Ball Valves" and if you look through them when they are open you can see that they are wide open with absolutely no obstructions at all, in contrast, the "Factory" valve is probably 40-50% blocked by the valve mechanism itself. Because of this difference your heater will probably work better than with the original valve when open. Also putting the valve on the return side of the system will prevent your heater core from "drying up" in the event of a leak somewhere else in the system.

wcsinx

That's the exact same valve I used on my '96 Integra when its valve rotted out. Hell, I'm in FL! I used to open it up in December and close it back off at the end of January.

The above picture is a ball valve. There is virtually no restriction through it when it's fully opened.

Jaybird907

Step #4 as well.

08vycpe

You are probably right about the opening if you use a 3/4" valve. My car has a 5/8" hose and by the time I added the fittings to the valve for the hose to fit over the actual flow was smaller and the cost was higher so I just bought the regular vacuum operated valve.

BTW...don't put the valve on the return hose. Put in on the feed hose. There is no point in pressurizing the heater core with no way for the water to get out.