toolman1981

We feel that heat over in Dallas too.

toolman1981

Thought I would give this a bump for the newbies.

Red 69

I wrapped my headers and exhaust pipes back to the mufflers for a significant interior heat reduction. 2" X 50' rolls of Thermo Tec material is commonly available at all the discount auto shops. I did not do anything else, as everything else was working properly. Wrapping the pipes also solved my vapor lock problem on hot summer days.

Mashman

I put one of these in, and it's made a huge difference - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...492-_-10720525

The good thing about this valve is that it's a vacuum bypass. So when there is vacuum, it's doesn't 'block' the flow, it redirects it thru the valve to the return line, bypassing the heater core.

I have a 72, so there was no stock vacuum cutoff. By t-ing into the tan line on the control, I have vacuum at the off position, and both A/C positions. This gives me pretty much exactly what I wanted, I guess it would be nice to have vacuum on the 'vent' setting too, but I can live with that.

I like this setup because I can still use the heater/defroster when I want. And I don't need to worry about build up in the heater core.

LancePearson

Where did you put the valve in the hose and do you have a photo of it? I'm thinking of doing it and want to be sure to do what works.

I went to the 180 degree thermostat and much prefer seeing the gauge at that temp for many reasons.

Thanks,

Lance Pearson

riverracer au

pity i karnt get 1 of those valves here in australia, any1 willing to post 1 to me?
where exactly did you 't' into?
what is the photo showing exactly?

Mashman

You should probably be able to get one there, try looking for a heater valve for a 2000 ford ranger.

Since 72's didn't have a vacuum controled hot water cutoff from the factory, I needed to have a vacuum line to control the heater valve. In the 72 service manual, there is a chart that describes each of the vacuum hoses connected to the AC/Heater controls in the shifter console. The chart showed that the Tan vacuum hose would have vacuum when the controls were in 'off', 'AC normal', or 'AC max' settings. I cut this line under the dash, and put in a tee to run a new vacuum line to the heater valve.

The picture is to show where I placed the valve - I wanted it to be out of sight as much as possible. I've circle the valve in this picture. It's kind of hard to tell, but it's tucked down as far as possible without being lower than the frame.

riverracer au

ok, done a bit more hunting around and have found these locally
(ford rangers are not a common car here)
http://www.dayco.com.au/products.asp...322&P=16028371
does it need to be a 4 port valve? i'm guessing thats a bypass valve
will a simple on/off in 1 hose to the heater work as good?
i have a piece of 5/8" steel blocking mine atm where the po installed a tap before
does the vacuum turn on/open the valve or off/close it?

thanks

Makonut

Good list.
But you also need to check the flapper door on the passengers side behind the kick panel. It has a seam that tends rot out over time. You need to sometimes reseal it. It is a pain in the butt, however; it can stop alot of serious heat from coming into the cabin. Also engine smells.

u2bdet

I insatlled the brass shut off valve in my 81 , cuts down on the heat but I really think it looks horrible and out of place....being as my car only come out in the nice weather with no need for heat ,I was thinking of the plugs at the water pump/block and eliminating the hoses altogether ,,, anyone try this ? thoughts?
Thanks ,
Neal

LancePearson

Do you have a photo of how yours looks in the engine compartment to share, please?

thanks.

Lance

Red 71

I went this route to eliminate the under body heat along with insulating the floor and firewall. Did cost more than $40 though.

njcardave

I did this to my 75 coupe the other day. I only drive my car during the warm months. I do not need a heater core.

Mashman

I believe the 4 port (bypass) will work better. For one, since it's a bypass, and it allows the fluid to continue flowing along the shortened route, it will be under less pressure, and therefore less likely to leak. It's not stopping fluid under pressure, it's simple redirecting it.

Also, there has been discussion on wether or not when using cutoff valves, both hoses should be blocked off. The idea is that even if the coolant is not flowing, it will still conduct the heat into the core - and therefore a cutoff valve should be also put on the return hose to act as a sort of heatshield. If you use the 4 port bypass you don't have to worry about that.

The bypass that I use, the one designed for the Ford trucks, will bypass when the vacuum is applied. Therefore, when supplied via the Tan hose I mentioned, vacuum is applied with the system in 'Off' or either A/C setting, and the heater core is bypassed. All other settings and the bypass is not active, and the hot coolant will flow thru the heater core.

AWilson

I'm a little confused, why do you need 4 ports? I can see one for the inlet and 2 for the outlet with one of them going to the core and one being the bypass back to the engine.

sweeet76

Any suggestions with what to fill fire wall holes with if not using new grommets?

LancePearson

I put the heater core input bypass valve in and nothing else. It made a huge difference but in the summer on long drives with no outside cool air venting down at your feet the heat of the engine still heats the footwells up when it's 90+ out. I believe you really have to insulate under the carpet as well which hasn't been done in my car's case to get it cool. I wish there were a way to direct outside air while driving into the bullet vents but in my car's case it's all tied to the A/C which I've never started. With the t tops out all the time I probably never will.

Lance

Wrecked82

Can you use transmission tunnel foam on 82's? Don't think they came with the foam from the factory.

Also, consider buying a heat blanket from Jegs or Summit and put on outside of heater/air conditioner box to keep radiant heat from headers heating up box.

Why not just seal up the fresh air vents? Hardly ever use them.

Mashman

This is the part I was talking about. There are 4 ports, but in the picture at Napa, one of the ports is being blocked by the vacuum diaphragm. The ports on one side will be for the heater core input line, and the other side the return line.

When the valve has vacuum, an arm is actuated, and the flow is redirected internally. The flow will be in a U shape, in one side, and redirected back on the other side. When there is no vacuum, flow is not redirected, and it will flow straight thru the ports on both sides.


https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50028+2028014

AWilson

Somehow I'm not getting it. Don't you only need one input and 2 outputs, total 3? Or are you saying that the flow in AND out of the heater core go through the bypass valve. If so why go through the valve again after the heater core?