Fishndude

I am scheduled to go look at a 68 coupe with numbers matching that is suppose to be a totally rust free car from California.. The owner brought it back from CA years ago and even though it didn’t appear to need much, he passed away before completing it so now his wife is selling it.. My question is what should I look for before buying this car? Everything is suppose to be original except a motor dress up kit but they do have the original parts to put back on it.. It has a 327 that has a fresh rebuild and the interior is supposed to be mint.. It has 88,000 original miles and the original paint with no major flaws and all the chrome is suppose to be in great shape too. She claims there are no stress cracks and no rust, not even on the pillars or under dash bracing.. She claims the frame is totally rust free too.. The price is only $12,000 which makes this whole thing sound to good to be true.

I have basic knowledge because I have built my share of street machines in years past but i didnt know if there is anything special about that year Vette that I should be aware of.. I have a freind who helped me build some my street machines and he is going to stop by and look at for me tomorrow but I would like to also fill him in on what to loook for.. Its a 4 hour drive for me and only 30 minutes for him.. Any thoughts or advice?

ksbunting

Look for rust on the frame just in front of the rear wheels where the frame kicks up to go around the wheel well.
If they will let you, look at the frame behind the interior kick panels.
You access from the interior by removing the left and right side interior kick panels at your feet that have the radio speakers behind them and you look at where the frame meets the uprights (called the legs of the birdcage) Look for rust damage
The birdcage is the name used for the frame structure that surrounds the interior like a cage (hence the name birdcage).
Also, look for rust at the base of the windshield pillars on the left and right side where they meet the birdcage.
These are expensive repairs.
Look for obvious missing items as some (not all) 68 parts are one year only and can be hard (not impossible) to find.
I recently finished restoring my 68 coupe L79 with A/C which I purchased in 1972 and I was able to find any parts that I needed but it can sometimes cost more as some parts changed in 69
The price sounds fantastic if it is in the condition you indicated.
Good luck and post some pictures
Kurt
68 t-top

xCCTer

Here is an excellent pic posted by someone here of a free-standing birdcage.

As mentioned, look closely at the pillars where the vin tag is located along the edge of the windshield. This is the easiest place to see without removing anything. Even if it's been gone over with POR-15, you'll be able to see evidence. If the seller is sure there isn't a rust issue, he'll be anxious to show you the frame kick-ups and remove the inspection plates in the rear wheel-wells and kick panels to prove it.

Good Luck.

xCCTer

Also...

do your homework as far as matching numbers before you get there.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/D.../matchnos.html

http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php

http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-cod...s-suffix-2.php

http://www.mortec.com/location.htm

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/1999...2/munciep8.asp

Fishndude

Wow, you guys are fantastic!!
I am going to print out alot of this stuff and let my friend take it with him too. He's going to email me pictures tomorrow so I'll try and get some posted then.

Thanks again!!!

Budman68

The price is about right for a 68 base model coupe in todays money. If it's a L79 it would be worth a little more. The original motor should have had chrome valve covers.

The stuff that cost a ton of money to replace if it is missing.
219 quadrajet carb.
Smog pump and brackets.
Console shift plate.
Door Panels.
68 ralleys.

BTW, A 88K motor is young to be rebuild. A simple clean up with a new cam and valve job should have done it. My guess is it has a few more miles on it. Saying that, my 68 has less than that and is on its 3rd motor. Original was NHRA raced.

Here are things you need to do.
Start car.
Turn headlights on.
Turn wipers on.
That takes care of the most expensive stuff to repair.

Good luck.

Fishndude

I just got off the phone with her neighbor, who knows allot more about the car. The motor, even though numbers match, has been totally modified. The short block has new forged pistons and HP cam, double roller chain, etc.. The long block includes aluminum heads, intake, Holley DP carb, MSD ignition and headers.. It also has a Summit built 400 trans. However, he did say she does still have all the orginal parts, icluding heads, intake, carb, pully's etc.. He said the owner, who passed away, had already installed the fesh built motor and even though it sounds like its running great, hasnt been driven yet.. Actually it hasnt been driven in just over 2 years now.. He said there are some small things that need to be buttoned up before it should be driven like draining the tank of old gas.. I dont mind a beafed up Vette, even if it pulls from the value and requires some moinor work, I just dont want a major project car..

7T1vette

Buy it quick!! Even if you have to re-paint some of the engine compartment items [to get it back to stock look], it's already clean and would be easy to work on. The engine upgrades are no big deal..even if it has different components. At that price...and with the original parts available..this one is a no brainer. Take a medium sized Phillips screw driver with you and ask if you can remove the door sill plates, then the kickpanels (or one of them, at least) to check the condition of the front body mounts. If they are free of heavy rust [surface rust is no big deal], you have a winner. If I lived close to you, that car would already be gone! {P.S. Don't even haggle about the price...just ask how much deposit she would like.)

shmoky

shmoky

dbeall1968

Sounds good. Go for it!

globey

i buy it in a new york seconds.. the way it is

Fishndude

We'll we made the purchase today and should be able to get a car hauler to pick it up by this weekend.. The only places we could find any issues was on one of the rear wheel well lips where it was cracked and broke off but it was only a very small piece. The other spot was at the bottom of the radiator core support where there was a small piece that had some through rust.. We pulled the kick plates and looked at as much of the bird cage and frame as possible and it was very solid with virtually no rust at all.. Pictures were taken with a cell phone so they arent that great. It also comes with a factory OEM big block hood.

vette442

I saw an online ad for that car in the past week or two somewhere and thought it looked interesting. Glad to see it worked out for you. Congratulations!
Terry

ksbunting

Congratulations on your new purchase.
Looks like you got a good deal especially since there is no rust.
Show us more pictures when you get it home.
Good luck with it and may you have many troblefree miles.
Come to this forum when you need help.
Kurt
68 T-top

7T1vette

Rally68

Congratulations, she looks great. Enjoy

GDaina

Interesting...they put the Stingray script on the side of the fenders

Budman68

Rockers are wrong also. Should be black with silver line at top. Even at $12K it looks like it was bought right.

7T1vette

Rockers may be "wrong" (not same as originally built), but I think they look better on an all-black car. {Same with the 'script'; the extra bit of chrome looks good against the black.}

vettebuyer6369

Is it a real Code 900 car?