Binnie77

Well, yesterday I just completed a major brake conversion. I replaced my vacuum booster with a hydroboost unit, four Wilwood D8 direct fit calipers and Wilwood master cylinder. I can tell you that the Wilwood setup gives you a whole new perspective on bleeding brakes. There are four bleed screws per caliper, one for each piston. After bench bleeding the master cylinder, all you need to do is install it, then the procedure for each wheel - pop open the two bottom bleed screws, wait a few minutes for the fluid to appear, close the two bottom ones, and repeat same for the top ones. It takes about 15 minutes in total for the gravity bleed and you will have an air free system and rock hard pedal. I took the car for a test drive and in one word - AWESOME! The saying 'You can stop on a dime and still have a nickel in change' is an understatement. At 60 mph, I can lock up all 4 wheels with very little pedal effort. This is an amazing enhancement that you will never regret.

Hydroboost Install

HamadUP

Now that looks reallt impressive , whats next? adding ABS?

Theiskell

Time for me to go fertilize the money tree. This will be one of my next upgrades. That system is sweeeeeeeet.

SteveG75

Where did you get all the components? This may have to be my next major upgrade. Also, do you have a link to your hydraulic clutch upgrade?

OURSHARK

Nice upgrade, I can see this in my future.

hot77rod

I already have all the parts for the same conversion except one connector. It should be here this weekend. I already had the same Wilwood MC and brakes but have been running an external vacuum pump since my cam just doesn't provide enough vacuum. Now you got me going crazy wanting that part to come in....did you make your own lines? Im gonna give it a try it looks easy enough. Any issues or "I shoulda done this first" notes to pass on?

Binnie77

I made my own lines using hose and fittings from Summit. The install of the hydroboost is pretty straight forward. The biggest challenge is getting the nuts off the brake booster. It makes a lot of sense to reverse the studs on the hydroboost. That way you will never have to worry about those 4 nuts again. Take a look at my install instructions on my site Hydroboost Install. This is an upgrade you will never regret

Bee Jay

Amen brother, Yellow Corvette, with wilwood brakes, 275 tires, and Hydraboost. Stops on a dime, chips $.09 change. You saved 44lbs too.
Bee Jay

Binnie77

Note that you can change the orientation of the hydroboost to suit your preference. It doesn't care how it is rotated Bee Jay has his rotated 180 degrees from my orientation. If you have a big block or want some extra room for tall valve pan covers or want to hide hoses, then you may wish to flip it 180 like I have done. If you want easy access to connections, then go with Bee Jay's rotation. Probably other pros and cons to either rotation.

jr9170

Fonz69

After my frame off is now done and having trouble with even new replacment factory calipers leaking I think Wilwood is the next step for me.

I called a while back to find out about the wilwood d8 setup and they gave me a price of $1400 for calipers and lines.

Did you find a better deal anywhere else?

How hard was it to get to the fittings on the power steering pump?

I know on my BB they are going to be a challenge

Bee Jay

I did it that way because that is how it sits in my truck. One day when I am really bored, I'll pull out the seat, remove the four nuts, rotate the hydoboost, replace the four nuts, and paint the MC and hydroboost. Maybe I'll go to braided hose too. I'm gonna have to be really bored.
Bee Jay

Binnie77

I don't think there is much price variation in the calipers. I know our friends at VanSteel carry the Wilwood line and I think their prices are as good as it gets I also see that Corvette Central have them as well. i had no problem at all getting the fitting in the pump. I can't comment on a BB pump though

RobRace10

What model / bore Wilwood master cylinder did you use? I have all the components accept the lines and the MC.

Binnie77

The Wilwood master cylinder is 260-8556P. If you drop the 'p' then you get a unpolished cylinder. It has a 1.12" bore (same a OEM), correct for power brakes. You do not have to change your master cylinder unless you wish. I changed mine because it was the original one that came in the car

ctk30

What about brake fade? Will it help with that, are you going to test them on the track?

Binnie77

Fade is something I cannot comment on yet. The car will never make the track (I spent most of my time at the track 40 years ago )but it will be making a 4000 mile road trip this summer.

Just want to add some comments about these D8 Direct fit calipers:

These are made with the same technology as their racing calipers with

1) Deep Cup stainless pistons to minimize heat transfer.
2) For extreme racing the caliper can be retrofitted with Thermlock insulated pistons just like the race calipers.

Pads are also available from street to full race compounds. Also high temperature brake fluid, either 570 or EXP Fluid could be used.

rudolph schenker

CA-Legal-Vette

I think that's the "stock" orientation. Note that the little drain notch is down with the way you have it. I did mine the same way that Binnie did. Looks a little neater and gives a little more clearance, but makes no difference to the function. Your's looks great as it is.

Did you need to use special flex hoses or are these new, direct fit just that?

wweast

The $1,400 quote is Wilwood's MSRP for kits that include the calipers in clear coat with the stainless braided line kits and a set of their BP-10 compound pads. Red or black powder coated calipers, or polished calipers are an upcharge from there. It's generally best to buy through one of the Wilwood dealers.