gator77

I'm trying to rebuild the rear calipers on my 75 vette; things were looking good until I found that one of the bleeder screws was broken off flush with the body (no, I actually didn't do it, this time). I was able to make matters worse; I tried an easy-out and broke it off! I'd really like to keep these calipers, but the parts store has new ones for $66 with a lifetime warranty. What do you think?

Durango_Boy

The ones at the parts stores are a great option. They are also original calipers but they have been rebuilt with S/S sleeves and new seals. GM used only a few different casting numbers for calipers through the entire life of the C2 and C3 Corvettes so the ones at the parts stores are basically stock calipers. Replace them two at a time though, so both rears in your case. I would also suggest replacing the rubber flex lines either with new rubber lines or with after market S/S braided lines.

Steve COSD

Take the old one to a machine shop. Some of those old guys have the knowledge and tools to get the job done.

gator77

Thanks for the help! I've been to a local garage with a couple of other problems and they been very helpful. Just didnt want to wear out my welcome! I'll try them again, then go with the new ones if they cant help or point me to a good machine shop! Durango, with your input I feel better about getting the new ones!

Durango_Boy

Oh, and the Autozone calipers come with a lifetime warranty so if anything goes wrong in the future they will replace it free of charge and all you have to do is swap it on the car. Great deal for the money.

my 76 ray

Here's a trick I've used after breaking off a few bleeder screws in my time. It doesn't help with the broken one but prevents it from happening in the future.

When the brakes are completely bled, I have someone push the brake pedal and hold it to the floor when it goes down as I remove the bleeder screw. Then I put wheel bearing grease on the threads of the bleeder screw, reinsert it and tighten it. Then the helper can release the brake pedal. I've done this every time I replace a caliper because the bleeder broke off and have never had a problem after that.

JIM

So whats the difference between the $66 ones and the $99 ones VB&P has?

Durango_Boy

What's the description say? Probably nothing but they will charge more if they are O-ring seal style and not lip seal style.

Jason Staley

I don't know what other people's experiences are with Autozone rebuilt calipers, but I had to use their guarantee 3 times over just a few years after replacing my calipers with their units.

I finally got fed up with the freakin leaks and put some good quality calipers on my car. No more leaks in over 7 years now. I guess you get what you pay for.

budman30562

do not go to autozone I went to advanced they sent me brand new calipers and i ordered them 2 differnt times got brand new calipers not rebuilt for $60 A PIECE deal with advanced not auto zone

Durango_Boy

I've had mine for close to 10 years now...I put them on when I got the car and re-did the brakes and suspension. No leaks or issues and it sits all winter and part of the summer.

JIM

Anybody dealt with Checker,Shucks, Kragen (maybe they're O'Reilly now)? I get a 10% NHRA discount from them.

Tim81

I have used calipers and a master cylinder from auto zone with no problems at all. Maybe it's the luck of the draw.

gator77

I went to Advance Auto and they were $69 each with the lifetime warranty. It'll be a while before I'm on the road, but I'll report back if I have any problems. I did go with new stainless steel flex lines to replace to old ones. Also, just FYI, the pistons in my old calipers were corroded, so I was going to replace them; 10.99 ea.from Mid-America, 5.99 ea. from Advance Auto. It pays to call around! My '75 does'nt have power brakes. Has anyone upgraded and added a power booster unit to a non-power master cyclinder? Seems like it wouldn't be too hard to do.

Durango_Boy

Does your '75 have power steering? If you're going to add power to a C3 it's almost easier and cheaper to upgrade to a Hydrobooster, which is a power booster that runs off of the power steering pump instead of engine vacuum.

The pedal feel is much more solid and firm, travels a lot less so no squishy pedal, and it's a smaller and better looking unit than a large vacuum can.

PM me your email address and I'll be happy to send you an information packet that has lots of pictures and diagrams and write ups explaining everything from how it works to how to make your own pressure lines.

I think it's a huge improvement over the vacuum booster, both in performance and looks.