A couple of brake questions.
#1
Drifting
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri
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A couple of brake questions.
First, is there any issue with replacing just one caliper? I understand that on a “typical” brake job when pads are being replaced, both sides of the axle are done because if one side is worn, the other side should be as well. However, I only have a leaking caliper (right rear). All eight pads have plenty of material on them and all four rotors appear to be in good shape. If money weren’t an object, I’d replace all four calipers, brake lines and the master cylinder but I can’t afford to fix anything that isn’t broken.
Second, how can I determine if my current calipers are stainless steel sleeved? The apparent answer would be “with a magnet” but many grades of stainless steel are magenetic.
Second, how can I determine if my current calipers are stainless steel sleeved? The apparent answer would be “with a magnet” but many grades of stainless steel are magenetic.
#2
Instructor
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#3
Drifting
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Don’t know exactly where it’s leaking from. The car sat up for nearly a year so I assume it’s leaking from the cylinder(s). I don’t have any experience in rebuilding a C3 caliper so I just planned on following the quickest/easiest path and replace the caliper with a rebuilt one.
#4
Melting Slicks
IMO, if one leaks it's only a matter of time until another (then another) will leak. I've always done 4 at a time when one leaks. I figure if I'm in the mess, I might as well do 'em all.
#5
All that rubber ages at the same rate. You better believe the other is right behind it.
#6
Burning Brakes
Yes, and another will probably start leaking two or three days after you fix the first one. I bet a lot of people on this forum have been down this road and I was one of them. If they are stainless steel sleeved you can rebuild them, or just replace them with new ones.
#7
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But its not just the rubber that goes bad...its also the bore that gets rust pits in it. The hygroscopic nature of the fluid causes it to absorb moisture which eventually pits the walls of the cylinder...thats where the stainless sleeves come in. You can buy a rebuild kit for cheap, but that may not fix the leak. You almost need to inspect the bore for pitting prior to making a decision on rebuilding or replacing. The stainless sleeve is fairly thin compared to the bulk of the body of the caliper itself, so I'm not sure a magnet will tell you anything. I definitely would not waste money on a non-stainless replacement caliper.