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Old 08-08-2007, 10:59 PM
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hwcoop
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Default Rocker channel mayhem

Well I have reached the point in the restoration where the chassis has been completed and it is time to tackle some body issues before it can be dropped on the chassis.
Replacement is required of both rocker channels, outside Seat belt reinforcement brackets and seat belt reinforcement brackets. I thought I would post a few pics to help those that may not have travelled this road, this is the first time for my self as well.
Kind of makes you wonder how many Vettes were scrapped over the years for "minor" rust issues.

Here is the subject of discussion...mostly original paint 73, unmolested except for mother nature!


34 years of dirt and minor parking lot dings


Bad rocker channels..


This stuff does not show up until you have the body off and mounts removed


Seat belt outside reinforcements...


seatbelt reinforcments


new replacements


Its crusty enough in there that I want to remove the access panel so I can sandblast everything and treat it before welding in the new channel. Patience is required for this process, I heated with my heat gun and worked a bit of a time with a scraper to separate the parts


much better access for cleaning ,patching and welding with the cover removed


Question, Assembly manual shows a few spot welds, what have you guys found for removing the rocker channels?....mine are so crusty it is hard to find the spot welds
stay tuned for further updates

Last edited by hwcoop; 08-10-2007 at 11:53 AM.
Old 08-09-2007, 12:07 AM
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Artsvette73
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Well you have something to work with. Mine were toast. You managed to find the outer seatbelt reinforcement I had to make mine. As far as finding the spot welds the book gives you locations maybe blast around those areas. Don't forget the aliminum rivets on the top of the rocker channel.
Old 08-09-2007, 12:21 AM
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hwcoop
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Zip had the guide reinforcements for $47 ea
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...D5B13EE643C5E1
Old 08-09-2007, 03:49 PM
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As far as finding the spot welds the book gives you locations
thanks!, Found the pages...a grinding I will go!

This has to be one of the nastier jobs to tackle....major pain in the butt!!...may need more beer to calm the nerves
Old 08-09-2007, 03:54 PM
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SIXFOOTER
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yes it is a pain. I did my 81, but used the add on pieces from (somebody, drawing a blank here) MIne were not as bad as yours tho. Took some time and planning to get them in there, but it worked out pretty good
Old 08-09-2007, 04:27 PM
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I've been there brother -

it is a road less traveled and one I wish to never walk it again







Old 08-09-2007, 05:57 PM
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Thanks to both you guys for the great PICTURES! I am about to do this; just pulled the body on Sunday.

Please keep the pictures coming. They are VERY helpful.

Any shots of the completed job, Chevy 69?
Old 08-09-2007, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by akfox1
Thanks to both you guys for the great PICTURES! I am about to do this; just pulled the body on Sunday.

Please keep the pictures coming. They are VERY helpful.

Any shots of the completed job, Chevy 69?
No, I never took any once they were all welded in. I was waiting till I finished riveting in all of the underbody reinforcements and planned to get pics of all of it. Then the work on my son's '70 mustang took center stage and I've been in a "game delay" since January. Should be back at it in next few weeks - his car is about done and it's time for the '69 to get some attention
Old 08-09-2007, 08:59 PM
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one down one to go!, thanks for the pics guys.

The rear end wasn't too bad to get at with the access panel off but those welds up front were a real pain...just had to us a combination of grinder, ctoff wheel and air chisel


This could be one of the reasons they rust....packed full of leaves and a piece of foam
Old 08-15-2007, 12:53 PM
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a few updated pics of my rocker channel replacement

I cleaned the channels with a wax/grease remover and painted them with PPG DP90 Epoxy primer..I taped off areas where I was going to be welding


my front mount area was solid but a little crusty.


I used my small sandblaster and cleaned up the area, I then sprayed it with weld through primer


my rear mount area required a little patching...I had a water bottle standing by in case I saw flames ...all went well


I found I had to remove my lower door hinge bolts so the
channel mount would slide in the post otherwise everything
went smooth. I clamped it all down and welded up the mounts.
I am going to install new rivets for appearence sake


new outside seatbelt reinforcement welded in place...I hate welding upside down!

Last edited by hwcoop; 08-15-2007 at 01:03 PM.
Old 08-15-2007, 04:59 PM
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Great work you are getting there. It is a job you will not want to ever do again.
Old 08-15-2007, 07:28 PM
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Great work you are getting there. It is a job you will not want to ever do again


Though I probably will/would since these cars are 30+ years old and spent at least the first 10 years of thier life as drivers in the northern hemisphere.
Wonder how many 427, 454, HiPo 350's were scrapped in the 70's and 80's due to "rust issues" that we would tackle these days I would not turn down a 70 454 4 speed if the rocker channels were bad or if thier were frame issues...just as long as it was priced right.
This is my first Vette and I am learning very quickly on what to look for when buying one. I have no regrets except for what it is costing me for parts to restore. It is the exact car I would have ordered in 73 if I had the chance.
350 L82, M21, AM/FM Radio, 945 Blue/Green, Dark Saddle interior...dats All!...I'm learning lots on this one
Old 08-15-2007, 11:35 PM
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Had to do the rocker channel replacement on my 68, as well as replace all of the seat belt mounts and other metal riveted under the body.
Had no idea a fiberglass car could have so much rust!
Old 08-16-2007, 04:36 AM
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Had no idea a fiberglass car could have so much rust!

I seem to be replacing all metal below the door handles!
both rocker channels, seat belt reinforcements, outer seat belt reinforcements, rad support and header panel plus misc brackets
My first ride at speed with the T-Tops off will make all this a distant memory!
Old 08-16-2007, 04:51 AM
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Gee, I wonder if this could be a safety issue?


I know...this probably opens a can of worms on Purist/NCRS/Driver/Bubba way to work on these cars
My preference is for a "Factory Like" appearence...no Wal Mart fasteners here!


For the 10 extra minutes and $5.00 worth of rivets, why not do it right?
Old 08-16-2007, 06:12 AM
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Like others, I have been there and am with you in sprite. I weled the reinforcement and channels together before installing into the pillar post.


Make sure you center the inserts in the post, the inserts are smaller then the post so there is way too much room and I had to build up the welds on the front to meet the door post.
body off project
Old 08-16-2007, 10:35 AM
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Default Dolly question

I have the body off and am about to tackle this. My Dolly supports the body by running straight through the rockers. How do you support the body to get in there and work?
Will it crush the floor to put 4x4's there? What are you guys doing? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks.

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Old 08-16-2007, 11:24 AM
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Mine was being stored on a wooden body dolly but I need to raise it up to get at the rocker channels
I have been crawling around inside the car and the doors open /close so it does appear to be supported well.
I probably would never have tackled this job if it wasn't for forum members that had travelled this road before me and posted excellent pics...thanks to redwingvette, chevy69 artsvette73 and others for excellent information/photos

At the front I supported the nose under the hood hinge brackets to relieve stress and allow me to remove the rad support


first I ran 2 4x4s just inboard of the seat belt reinforcements


rear view

Last edited by hwcoop; 08-16-2007 at 11:52 AM.
Old 08-16-2007, 12:18 PM
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This will give you an idea where the welds are located, check the AIM for your year car in case things are different.
I don't know how the others did it but I made all my cuts/grinding from the rocker channel side and carefully ground down the channel to remove/weaken the spot welds, then I carefully took my air chisel and after a few short bursts the welds popped. Watch the fiberglass



View B & D are the ones we are interested in, most of mine were rusted so it wasn't much of an issue
Old 09-22-2007, 08:57 AM
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I have a set of the same replacement channels for my 81. Something I am confused on..They seem to be narrower that the factory ones. And the outside edge is straight (90deg) where is the factory part is stepped. How did you compensate for this? I must be missing something. Thanks


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