You call that a drive shaft loop?
#1
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You call that a drive shaft loop?
I made a new driveshaft loop this weekend.
Made from 3/4" square tubing so it only hangs below the crossmember by less than an inch.
Uses the holes that are already in the crossmember ( what are they for anyway?? )
Doesn't require dropping the driveshaft to install
Weighs 4 lbs
What do you think?
And powder coated
Made from 3/4" square tubing so it only hangs below the crossmember by less than an inch.
Uses the holes that are already in the crossmember ( what are they for anyway?? )
Doesn't require dropping the driveshaft to install
Weighs 4 lbs
What do you think?
And powder coated
Last edited by Corvette Engineering; 04-01-2007 at 09:21 PM.
#6
Burning Brakes
Nice
Joe,
Nice Job! Not to sound stupid, is the driveshaft coming apart common on the higher HP cars? I have seen these frequently and also on halfshafts. Building my first car now and was wondering if I should include these?
Nice Job! Not to sound stupid, is the driveshaft coming apart common on the higher HP cars? I have seen these frequently and also on halfshafts. Building my first car now and was wondering if I should include these?
#9
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willem wallace
They don't have a history of breaking no. But they are a safety item for drag racing. They are required by the NHRA if your car is faster than 13.99 in the 1/4 mile.
Bad things happen on the track if you do break a front u-joint. Think of a pole vaulter !
It also keeps the driveshaft out of the passenger compartment.
A lot of people run them on the street just to feel better ( ok and maybe to look cool too )
This one is cut and welded but in the real ones the sides will be bent from one piece with the cross members welded in.
I'm thinking $90, powder coated in any solid color.
One change I want to make is to make it 1/2" narrower so there is more clearance between the loop and the driveshaft tunnel.
You can't see in the above pictures but there is only about 1/16" between the loop and the tunnel. I could see it rubbing on the tunnel and being anoying.
More pictures here.
Driveshaft loop
They don't have a history of breaking no. But they are a safety item for drag racing. They are required by the NHRA if your car is faster than 13.99 in the 1/4 mile.
Bad things happen on the track if you do break a front u-joint. Think of a pole vaulter !
It also keeps the driveshaft out of the passenger compartment.
A lot of people run them on the street just to feel better ( ok and maybe to look cool too )
This one is cut and welded but in the real ones the sides will be bent from one piece with the cross members welded in.
I'm thinking $90, powder coated in any solid color.
One change I want to make is to make it 1/2" narrower so there is more clearance between the loop and the driveshaft tunnel.
You can't see in the above pictures but there is only about 1/16" between the loop and the tunnel. I could see it rubbing on the tunnel and being anoying.
More pictures here.
Driveshaft loop
#11
Senior Member since 1492
willem wallace
They don't have a history of breaking no. But they are a safety item for drag racing. They are required by the NHRA if your car is faster than 13.99 in the 1/4 mile.
Bad things happen on the track if you do break a front u-joint. Think of a pole vaulter !
It also keeps the driveshaft out of the passenger compartment.
A lot of people run them on the street just to feel better ( ok and maybe to look cool too )
This one is cut and welded but in the real ones the sides will be bent from one piece with the cross members welded in.
I'm thinking $90, powder coated in any solid color.
One change I want to make is to make it 1/2" narrower so there is more clearance between the loop and the driveshaft tunnel.
You can't see in the above pictures but there is only about 1/16" between the loop and the tunnel. I could see it rubbing on the tunnel and being anoying.
More pictures here.
Driveshaft loop
They don't have a history of breaking no. But they are a safety item for drag racing. They are required by the NHRA if your car is faster than 13.99 in the 1/4 mile.
Bad things happen on the track if you do break a front u-joint. Think of a pole vaulter !
It also keeps the driveshaft out of the passenger compartment.
A lot of people run them on the street just to feel better ( ok and maybe to look cool too )
This one is cut and welded but in the real ones the sides will be bent from one piece with the cross members welded in.
I'm thinking $90, powder coated in any solid color.
One change I want to make is to make it 1/2" narrower so there is more clearance between the loop and the driveshaft tunnel.
You can't see in the above pictures but there is only about 1/16" between the loop and the tunnel. I could see it rubbing on the tunnel and being anoying.
More pictures here.
Driveshaft loop
That would be cheap insurance.
Keith, it looks as though this can be installed without removing the driveshaft?
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They should be available in a couple of weeks.
Yes no need to drop the driveshaft to install. The loop slips, with minimal swearing, over the driveshaft. And then is bolted to the bracket.
One possible issue is the e-brake cable. I don't have one and I suppose I should mecke sure it doesn't interfere!
Anyone have a pic of the cable routing?
Yes no need to drop the driveshaft to install. The loop slips, with minimal swearing, over the driveshaft. And then is bolted to the bracket.
One possible issue is the e-brake cable. I don't have one and I suppose I should mecke sure it doesn't interfere!
Anyone have a pic of the cable routing?
#15
Melting Slicks
I'm going to go out on a limb on this one and say that it will interfere with the e-brake cable looking at its placement of the hoop.
BUT the dragvette loop appears to do the same and I'm sure he's run into that problem over the years and corrected it.
If it doesn't interfere put me down for a red one that fits a muncie!
Sounds like you have a tall order to fill already
I can take pics in an hour if you need them. Don't have my driveshaft or trans in yet but the body/frame and e-brake cable is together.
Also...what is the diff b/w a manual and automatic with the driveshaft loops?
Dragvette lists the automatic much cheaper than the manual driveshaft loop.
Does the manual require a longer base to extend the loop further down the car?
Keith, what trans is in the car that you built it on?
BUT the dragvette loop appears to do the same and I'm sure he's run into that problem over the years and corrected it.
If it doesn't interfere put me down for a red one that fits a muncie!
Sounds like you have a tall order to fill already
I can take pics in an hour if you need them. Don't have my driveshaft or trans in yet but the body/frame and e-brake cable is together.
Also...what is the diff b/w a manual and automatic with the driveshaft loops?
Dragvette lists the automatic much cheaper than the manual driveshaft loop.
Does the manual require a longer base to extend the loop further down the car?
Keith, what trans is in the car that you built it on?
Last edited by 68 NJConv 454; 04-04-2007 at 08:21 PM.
#17
Senior Member since 1492