britvette

Could anyone recomend a paint that I can use to paint the underside of my vette , the frame etc. I am looking for a paint that I can apply with a brush as opposed to spray on. My frame is really clean with very little rust , I just want to clean it up and stop any rust forming.
Any advice would be appreciated
Thanks

Jclgodale3

Por 15

britvette

Ok thanks - I see I can get it online but can I get it in any of my local stores? Autozone etc?

blitz10

I couldn't find it locally. I went on e-bay to get mine, better prices. There seems to be a lot of POR-15 items on e-bay now.

britvette

$50 a quart Is it worth it?
My frame is in really good condition , with the original factory paint still in pretty good condition.I want to paint it as much if not more for cosmetic reasons as for protection. Are there any alternatives?

bondoboy

We sell por 15 at work for around $35 a quart.

britvette

the $50 I quoted is with the shipping - I don't know where I can get the stuff locally - where do you work - is it a parts/paint store?

73ls1

I have used it on my frame worked pretty good, but you have to get all the grease and oil off the frame. There is a swap meet in Indy on Sunday at the state fairgrounds.A por15 dealer is usually set up on east wall in the main building.He will have all the product and info. you will need.Glad to see a c3 forum member close by, about 50 or 60 miles away.

bondoboy

Yes, I work at a body shop supply store in Jasper. If you have a store like that near you, they should be able to get it.

Kenny Bonnell

I used POR 15 on my frame and am very happy with the results, t drys very durable and looks good too.

britvette

Thanks for the heads up on the swap meet - unfortunately can't make it this weekend - There is a local body supply store so I will give them a try.

Thanks to all for taking the time to post

68/70Vette

Eastwood sells chassis/frame paint that I've used. I've used it to paint two frames. As far as I can tell, it's a very effective paint. Looks pretty factory to me.

POR15, which I've also used, seems a little like overkill for a frame (at least a frame with no serious rust). POR15 is expensive and once it hardens, you can't get rid of it easily. Eastwoods frame paint cleans up with lacquer thinner. Also, if you get POR15 on your fingers, it isn't going to go away soon!

..about grease/oil. I think you have to be more careful to get rid of greae/oil with POR15. I think the Eastwood chassis paint can tolerate a little bit of oil. This is just a subjective comment. Can't be really sure.
l.

vettefanedu

I just put it on my frame and it looks great. It is very durable stuff, and support is excelent.

NHvette

As many here know, I am a prolific user of POR15.
However, I caution you to use it in this situation.

Why ? .. because POR15 should NOT be applied over paint. It will not stick well to paint.
It sticks well to rusted or clean etched metal. I fully cleaned every
speck of paint from my frame before etching it and coating with POR15.
It should outlast me.
clean/etched:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_01.jpg
silver POR:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_03.jpg

On the other hand, I have used POR15 where it overlapped existing paint.
Guess what ... it peeled in these areas. There are also difficulties in
top-coating it with spray-can enamel (must dust while tacky and top-coat after cure).

I think the product "Rust Bullet" may be more conducive to your project.
I believe it can be successfully applied over paint, too.

Another alternative, I would suggest cleaning up all the rust (Naval Jelly, etc)
and use a good etching primer followed by some good chassis paint.

roger55

Strip with 80 grit and clean.

Use epoxy primer.

Then single-stage acryllic urethane black.

gator79

wire brushed, treated with ospho and painted with plain old rustoleum black enamel. looks good and touch ups should be a snap.

roger55

Probably the best thing to do with a "body-on" clean up. But, I prefer the Krylon (semi-flat) to the rustoleum, I think it's a little better quality.
I've also heard that SEM makes a good spray-can paint.

On a "body-off" I would go with my previous advice.

britvette

Thanks to all for your opinions and advice - I am leaning away from the POR 15 (after the applying over existing paint quote) and looking at the eastwood products.
I have read that rattle can spraying should not be done at temps below 50F . It is getting pretty cold around here now and so I think I am going to shelve this one till the spring when it warms up a bit.
An Interesting subject though and I appreciate all who took the time to post

roger55

By the way, be sure to use a respirator with carbon cartridges even when using rattle cans. In the tight quarters underneath a car, it is hard to get good ventilation.

NHvette

If going as far as full wire brush/sanding ... then phosphoric acid treating,
I would use POR15.
Why go through all that work and just use enamel ?