New rad and spals - check it out!
#1
Pro
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Location: Ontario
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New rad and spals - check it out!
I just finished installing my new rad and dual spal fans from DeWitt's - check it out.
It is one awesome lookin' setup.
If it cool's half as cool as it looks, I'll have it made in the shade.
Thanks again to Tom DeWitt. A very high quality product.
Dave
It is one awesome lookin' setup.
If it cool's half as cool as it looks, I'll have it made in the shade.
Thanks again to Tom DeWitt. A very high quality product.
Dave
#2
Drifting
I just received mine for the 80. I have to say that they (DeWitts's) knows excellent customer service just from the way they packaged the fans and rad for shipment. Also received prompt responses to emails.
Hope to get them in over the next two weeks
Dave
Hope to get them in over the next two weeks
Dave
#3
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I have a question for those of you running the DeWitt's aluminum rad and dual spal setup.
With the stock shroud gone and the dual fans that close to the rad core, pulling air through, how critical is it to seal between the rad and the rad support?
Dave
With the stock shroud gone and the dual fans that close to the rad core, pulling air through, how critical is it to seal between the rad and the rad support?
Dave
#6
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Originally Posted by chevy69
Looks nice - that's where I plan to buy my radiator. Is this the "direct fit" model?
Just give Tom a call. He'll hook you up with the right rad.
Dave
#7
pushing 240
I definately need that setup I have a blown 79 and it's constantly flirting at 230 degrees and on the highway after a while starts toward 240 thats when I exit let me know what kind of temp drop you get
#9
Burning Brakes
Well, I have the b-Cool rather than the dewitts but they look about the same. I don't have any shroud. The spalls cover the entire rad. I do have the front spoiler though. Never gotten over 205. Usually runs 190.
#10
Safety Car
If you are pulling over 2500 RPM on the highway, then there's a good chance that your thermal fan clutch is the problem---they do not re-engage at engine speeds over 2500 RPM's.
In stop & go traffic and at speeds below 60 mph, the temperature would stay rock steady at 180F.
On my '77 (350/TH350), even with a new 4-core radiator, Victor water pump, air dam, and all new seals in place, the coolant would reach 210F (230F with a/c on) after about 20 minutes of 70 mph driving (3000 RPM). I corrected this by installing an aluminum radiator. An under drive pulley set would correct this as well.
In stop & go traffic and at speeds below 60 mph, the temperature would stay rock steady at 180F.
On my '77 (350/TH350), even with a new 4-core radiator, Victor water pump, air dam, and all new seals in place, the coolant would reach 210F (230F with a/c on) after about 20 minutes of 70 mph driving (3000 RPM). I corrected this by installing an aluminum radiator. An under drive pulley set would correct this as well.
Last edited by PhotoVette1; 05-07-2006 at 10:46 PM.