Does anybody have T-tops that don't leak?
#25
Burning Brakes
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Location: Reinholds PA
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I put new weatherstripping on my '81 and was having a fit problem after the install.
I found the key was to take the plastic covers off of your tops, loosen the nuts, adjust them to where they need to be and carefully tighten them down.
Remember they are supposed to stick up 1/8" in the back and about a 1/2" between them.
Good luck!
I found the key was to take the plastic covers off of your tops, loosen the nuts, adjust them to where they need to be and carefully tighten them down.
Remember they are supposed to stick up 1/8" in the back and about a 1/2" between them.
Good luck!
#31
It took $450.00 worth of REAL GM strips to get my car to not leak a drop.
If you use the cruddy aftermarket ones, the car wil leak like swiss cheese!!!
Best 450.00 I have spent yet - next to the 495.00 on the Dewitt direct fit aluminum radiator..
Bill
If you use the cruddy aftermarket ones, the car wil leak like swiss cheese!!!
Best 450.00 I have spent yet - next to the 495.00 on the Dewitt direct fit aluminum radiator..
Bill
#32
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2000
Location: Pottsville, PA. USA Home Of America's Oldest Brewery Yuengling
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I have a 75 convertible and it doesn't leak. The post above is right there are a lot of junk weatherstrips on the market. What is that old saying "NOTHING FITS LIKE OEM"
To answer your question about the T-Top fit. If your car has the solid tops remove the headliners and loosen the nuts holding the bayonets into the bar. You may need to either put more shims in or take some out. If your car has glass tops just remove the covers and do the same.
Any Corvette parts supplier sells the shims. Also remember on glass top cars the tops do not fit flush with the rear halio. They must stick up 1/8 to 1/4 "
To answer your question about the T-Top fit. If your car has the solid tops remove the headliners and loosen the nuts holding the bayonets into the bar. You may need to either put more shims in or take some out. If your car has glass tops just remove the covers and do the same.
Any Corvette parts supplier sells the shims. Also remember on glass top cars the tops do not fit flush with the rear halio. They must stick up 1/8 to 1/4 "
#36
7th Gear
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To fit tops and avoid leaksl here is a primer a customer sent us that was dead on
I'll assume you left the inner adjustment pins (trianbular shaped that fit into the T-top bar on the car) loose by removing the plastic covers and loosening the 2 7/16" nuts that hold each in place. Leave the nuts just on enough to hold them in place until the tops are on the car. Leave loose for now while making adjustments. Also under these two inner pins are shims. The shims should be a thickness that allows the pins to sit right in the middle of the receiver and not have any light coming through under the weatherstrip - meaning holding the top down tight enough.
Loosen the rear latches where the outer pin goes through (Torx head). DO NOT remove the screws as then it becomes a pain. There is some adjustment in these rear plates so the hole where the pin goes in can be moved slightly.
Also remove the 3 screws that hold the plastic cover over the latch. The latch is also held on by 3 7/16" nuts. Also loosen these nuts to allow the latch to swivel. With the latch swiveling in, with the inner latches/pins able to move, with the outer receiver pin receiver loose, you should be able to "twist" the t-top and get it in the right position.
With everything loose try to fit the T-top on now. It will sometimes take a little/lot of down pressure and pushing in on the rear corner but not too much to cause any damage. Especially if the weather strip is new.
Once you have it where you want it, then start tightening things. Tighten the 3 bolts holding the latch first. Then the two inner ones, then the rear corner receiver. Go slow and check things as you do.
Now pull it off and put it back on. Get in the car and see if you can see any light through the weatherstrip areas. Make sure the window closes correctly and into the groove of the weatherstrip (this weatherstrip piece can be adjusted by loosening the 4 screws and moving it into position also).
I'll assume you left the inner adjustment pins (trianbular shaped that fit into the T-top bar on the car) loose by removing the plastic covers and loosening the 2 7/16" nuts that hold each in place. Leave the nuts just on enough to hold them in place until the tops are on the car. Leave loose for now while making adjustments. Also under these two inner pins are shims. The shims should be a thickness that allows the pins to sit right in the middle of the receiver and not have any light coming through under the weatherstrip - meaning holding the top down tight enough.
Loosen the rear latches where the outer pin goes through (Torx head). DO NOT remove the screws as then it becomes a pain. There is some adjustment in these rear plates so the hole where the pin goes in can be moved slightly.
Also remove the 3 screws that hold the plastic cover over the latch. The latch is also held on by 3 7/16" nuts. Also loosen these nuts to allow the latch to swivel. With the latch swiveling in, with the inner latches/pins able to move, with the outer receiver pin receiver loose, you should be able to "twist" the t-top and get it in the right position.
With everything loose try to fit the T-top on now. It will sometimes take a little/lot of down pressure and pushing in on the rear corner but not too much to cause any damage. Especially if the weather strip is new.
Once you have it where you want it, then start tightening things. Tighten the 3 bolts holding the latch first. Then the two inner ones, then the rear corner receiver. Go slow and check things as you do.
Now pull it off and put it back on. Get in the car and see if you can see any light through the weatherstrip areas. Make sure the window closes correctly and into the groove of the weatherstrip (this weatherstrip piece can be adjusted by loosening the 4 screws and moving it into position also).