bluesilver82

I took my 82 out for an evening cruise last night. The gauge lights started going dim, the headlights started going dim, then I noticed the voltometer tached all the way left (severe battery drain). I had to turn off all the headlights for the last mile or so and barely made it home. I believe the alternator is shot because the alternator should have kept everything electrical on the car rworking while the engine is running. The fact that everything electrical started to fail tells me that I was runnning of pure battery power. So its either the alternator itself or bad cable. Does my diagnosis make sense? Any imput from others would be appreciated. By the way anyone have a spare alternator for an 82 that they would like to give up?????

MILO

Take the alternator to Autozone or the like, they can test it for you. If this happened without you working on the car or taking off and putting the alternator back on, start pricing for a new or rebuilt alternator.

SIXFOOTER

Your diagnosis is right on track. Get it tested at Auto Zone or wherever. When you reinstall it, take care with the battery wire on the back of the alt, don't let the stud turn in the alt housing and make sire the red insulator does not distort, these WILL cause more problems.

bluesilver82

Ok Thanks guys. Here is another question. The alternator on the car is chromed aftermarket. What amp size alternator belongs on an 82 with ac and rear defrost? NAPA said they show 4 alternators for the car... 35 amp 63 amp 70 amp and 80 amp. They told me the 70 amp and the 80 amp are oversize and would not fit if the car did not come with the oversized alternator frame. The alternator on the car now has the standard 6 inch diameter frame. The guy at the parts stor thinks I should go with the 63 amp it is the standard 6 inch diameter housing. the 70 and 80 amp are an oversize housing frame. Is this right?

big_G

70 amp is correct for your options.

bluesilver82

Thanks for the info Big G

worship79

Did you check the v-belt? It could be slipping. Rebuilding the alternator is a relatively easy job to do by the way. My stock alt. even came out better then before: 14.75 volts

Twin_Turbo

before you start spending money for a new alternator, probe it if it charges and if it does your problem probably is the little junction block next to the battery (on the outside battery wall, under the access lid frame)

Rebuilding the alternator is easy but those rebuild kits only have new brushes, bearings and that sort of stuff, the thing that's usually shot..the rectifier bridge (diode trio) is not in there.

bluesilver82

What is the junction block and what does it do?

Twin_Turbo

it's just that, a junction block. it looks like a sort of "castle" nut but it's a plastic cup with slots and a stud and nut inside, several wires hook up there. Like the charge wire. Then there's a separate wire that runs to the battery and also to the ECM (orange fused ram power lead)

I don't have a pic, open your drivers side storage box, remove the inner liner and feel just under the lid, next to the battery on the outside wall. It'll be back there.

bluesilver82

So its really just a terminal block used to connect wires together. If that is the case, that is an easy fix.

Twin_Turbo

yes, check if the nut and wires are tight

bluesilver82

Thanks I will do it.

I'm Batman

I had the exact same thing happen...it was a bad alternator. A rebuilt cost all of $35 after the core charge refund.

Twin_Turbo

do you gave a dmm to check the alternator for charge?

bluesilver82

I do not. I will take it to the parts store and have them check it for me.